Swift folders
10-31-06, 07:16 PM
#727
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Sweet, James! Looks very clean..
(I've been super busy at work for the last month, so had very little time to post. But I have found time to ride the 42 miles to work roughly once per week. On my Swift of course! It's behaved flawlessly, and it continues to amaze people that I keep up with the roadies..)
(I've been super busy at work for the last month, so had very little time to post. But I have found time to ride the 42 miles to work roughly once per week. On my Swift of course! It's behaved flawlessly, and it continues to amaze people that I keep up with the roadies..)
10-31-06, 08:45 PM
#728
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Originally Posted by yangmusa
Sweet, James! Looks very clean..
(I've been super busy at work for the last month, so had very little time to post. But I have found time to ride the 42 miles to work roughly once per week. On my Swift of course! It's behaved flawlessly, and it continues to amaze people that I keep up with the roadies..)
(I've been super busy at work for the last month, so had very little time to post. But I have found time to ride the 42 miles to work roughly once per week. On my Swift of course! It's behaved flawlessly, and it continues to amaze people that I keep up with the roadies..)
11-03-06, 03:44 AM
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I got my swift from recycle a bicycle in brooklyn.
it has some patina and I am sure it goes towards 10 years of age.
Some things give me sort of a head ache:
I lately had the plan to set up the bike with a derailer, but the dropouts don't seem to accept one. Those are the superclassic track-dropouts. does anyone have an idea how i can get my derailer on there?
the strem-rise has a funny system: It just uses a race bike head set and an extremely long stem of an old raleigh twenty or something. There is no way to put a quick-release on. That pretty much nixes the folding-idea.
I guess that leaves not much of a choice to get a nice pista-hub laced into some 20" rims and forget about folding...
Maybe some of you fellows have ideas on that frame.
it has some patina and I am sure it goes towards 10 years of age.
Some things give me sort of a head ache:
I lately had the plan to set up the bike with a derailer, but the dropouts don't seem to accept one. Those are the superclassic track-dropouts. does anyone have an idea how i can get my derailer on there?
the strem-rise has a funny system: It just uses a race bike head set and an extremely long stem of an old raleigh twenty or something. There is no way to put a quick-release on. That pretty much nixes the folding-idea.
I guess that leaves not much of a choice to get a nice pista-hub laced into some 20" rims and forget about folding...
Maybe some of you fellows have ideas on that frame.
11-03-06, 06:05 AM
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hey my bikestore sold me this astonishing thing. looks promising.
that leaves the problem with the stem rise. I fear I will need a new fork and the original stem-rise to get going with that.
that leaves the problem with the stem rise. I fear I will need a new fork and the original stem-rise to get going with that.
11-03-06, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by zepi
hey my bikestore sold me this astonishing thing. looks promising.
that leaves the problem with the stem rise. I fear I will need a new fork and the original stem-rise to get going with that.
that leaves the problem with the stem rise. I fear I will need a new fork and the original stem-rise to get going with that.
juan
Last edited by juan162; 11-03-06 at 11:49 AM.
11-03-06, 01:15 PM
#732
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Any idea where I could buy a Swift outside the US (Europe or S-E Asia) ?
Eric
Eric
11-03-06, 02:33 PM
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Partly, it would depend on whether you wanted a more customized steel Swift, or an aluminum Xootr Swift. If you want a steel one, I'd recommend contacting Peter directly, and once the bike is ready, come over on a cheap flight to pick it up, take it back as luggage.
If I remember correctly, it's rather expensive for shipping + duties + (VAT?) to ship it over there. If you can manage to come here and then take it back "packed up" as luggage, it might not be that much more expensive, and you'll have the opportunity to ride it in person before going back home. Also, how often do you get to meet the designer of any product that you use, much less one that you're passionate about?
If I remember correctly, it's rather expensive for shipping + duties + (VAT?) to ship it over there. If you can manage to come here and then take it back "packed up" as luggage, it might not be that much more expensive, and you'll have the opportunity to ride it in person before going back home. Also, how often do you get to meet the designer of any product that you use, much less one that you're passionate about?
11-05-06, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Ericx25
Any idea where I could buy a Swift outside the US (Europe or S-E Asia) ?
Eric
Eric
11-09-06, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Paul Braithwait
This is the last change I will make to my Swift - until the next one! Fitting a rear rack turned out to be easier than I thought. I had an old mountain bike rack lying in the shed and it looked as though it would fit my Swift without affecting the folding system. It is not a special rack for small wheeled bikes and I think any commercially available rack will fit the bill. I used the fittings from another touring rack, which featured flat and fairly flexible "arms", to attach the rack to the rear wheel stays. The upper arms bend quite easily and can be bolted to the Swift using plastic covered 'P' clips. The graceful curve in the arms add some stiffness and solidity to the rack and it does not interfere with the folding much at all. The width between the bent "arms" may prevent the seat pillar sliding all the way down but it should still slide far enough to contact the rear wheel to keep the bike together. Each rack may be different in that respect. If you want to fit a rack then I think any mountain bike or touring rack which uses flat "arms" will do the job. My completed rack feels very secure and is the perfect home for my AGU rack top bag. This bag has small panniers which fold out from its side but still keep clear of my heels (size 10 shoes - UK size). I would not like to try heavy camping gear on it, but for general use it works well.
can you post a picture of the folded swift with the rack attached? how far does the rack extend of the back of the bike?
Thanks!
11-09-06, 03:37 PM
#737
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Ericx,
I think there a few few places in the Netherlands that sell them. This is one of them:
https://www.gooiker.nl/kb/models-swift.html
I think there a few few places in the Netherlands that sell them. This is one of them:
https://www.gooiker.nl/kb/models-swift.html
11-09-06, 10:04 PM
#738
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To all you with fixed Swifts or hub-gear Swifts..
My hub-gear Swift dropped the chain for the first time today. It went back on really easily, and when I look at it and think about chain tension, I guess chain-stretch has just crept up on me without me noticing.
So the question is, should I just move the rear wheel back to take up the slack and readjust my gear cable? Or is the chain potentially close to wearing out and needs replacing? I've never had a chain stretch this noticeably before, and I've had hub-gear bikes for years.
thanks, Magnus
My hub-gear Swift dropped the chain for the first time today. It went back on really easily, and when I look at it and think about chain tension, I guess chain-stretch has just crept up on me without me noticing.
So the question is, should I just move the rear wheel back to take up the slack and readjust my gear cable? Or is the chain potentially close to wearing out and needs replacing? I've never had a chain stretch this noticeably before, and I've had hub-gear bikes for years.
thanks, Magnus
11-09-06, 10:38 PM
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If I remember correctly what I read on Sheldon Brown's site about chain stretch, measure your links with a precise ruler. If the chain has stretched, then moving your hub back may solve the short-term problem of dropped chains, but won't solve the longer term problem that a stretched chain won't mesh properly with your rear sprocket, and it's going to wear the teeth down.
EDIT:
Yup, here it is:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#wear
From the page:
"The standard way to measure chain wear is with a ruler or steel tape measure. This can be done without removing the chain from the bicycle. The normal technique is to measure a one-foot length, placing an inch mark of the ruler exactly in the middle of one rivet, then looking at the corresponding rivet 12 complete links away. On a new, unworn chain, this rivet will also line up exactly with an inch mark. With a worn chain, the rivet will be past the inch mark.
This gives a direct measurement of the wear to the chain, and an indirect measurement of the wear to the sprockets:
* If the rivet is less than 1/16" past the mark, all is well.
* If the rivet is 1/16" past the mark, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged.
* If the rivet is 1/8" past the mark, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at the 1/8" point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets.
* If the rivet is past the 1/8" mark, a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones."
EDIT:
Yup, here it is:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#wear
From the page:
"The standard way to measure chain wear is with a ruler or steel tape measure. This can be done without removing the chain from the bicycle. The normal technique is to measure a one-foot length, placing an inch mark of the ruler exactly in the middle of one rivet, then looking at the corresponding rivet 12 complete links away. On a new, unworn chain, this rivet will also line up exactly with an inch mark. With a worn chain, the rivet will be past the inch mark.
This gives a direct measurement of the wear to the chain, and an indirect measurement of the wear to the sprockets:
* If the rivet is less than 1/16" past the mark, all is well.
* If the rivet is 1/16" past the mark, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged.
* If the rivet is 1/8" past the mark, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at the 1/8" point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets.
* If the rivet is past the 1/8" mark, a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones."
11-10-06, 07:37 AM
#740
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Originally Posted by yangmusa
To all you with fixed Swifts or hub-gear Swifts..
My hub-gear Swift dropped the chain for the first time today. It went back on really easily, and when I look at it and think about chain tension, I guess chain-stretch has just crept up on me without me noticing.
So the question is, should I just move the rear wheel back to take up the slack and readjust my gear cable? Or is the chain potentially close to wearing out and needs replacing? I've never had a chain stretch this noticeably before, and I've had hub-gear bikes for years.
thanks, Magnus
My hub-gear Swift dropped the chain for the first time today. It went back on really easily, and when I look at it and think about chain tension, I guess chain-stretch has just crept up on me without me noticing.
So the question is, should I just move the rear wheel back to take up the slack and readjust my gear cable? Or is the chain potentially close to wearing out and needs replacing? I've never had a chain stretch this noticeably before, and I've had hub-gear bikes for years.
thanks, Magnus
Yeah, if you can put the chain back on "really easily", then the chain is too slack. Check for chain stretch, but before you do, check to make sure your rear hub hasn't slid forward in the track ends (Swifts don't have drop-outs). Also, check for chain alignment. I've let my chain run really slack on my fixie for a while, and never had it drop (my chainline is within ~1mm of dead-on).
Also, what kind of chain do you have (8sp or single?). I've stretched through a PC-68 chain on my SS pretty quickly. I find that BMX chains are much more durable and are far less prone to drop than multi-speed chains.
11-10-06, 10:01 AM
#741
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Originally Posted by james_swift
Check for chain stretch, but before you do, check to make sure your rear hub hasn't slid forward in the track ends
)
Originally Posted by james_swift
Also, what kind of chain do you have (8sp or single?). I've stretched through a PC-68 chain on my SS pretty quickly. I find that BMX chains are much more durable and are far less prone to drop than multi-speed chains.
Magnus
11-10-06, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by law4jba
Paul,
can you post a picture of the folded swift with the rack attached? how far does the rack extend of the back of the bike?
Thanks!
can you post a picture of the folded swift with the rack attached? how far does the rack extend of the back of the bike?
Thanks!
I do have some pics of the bike with the rack in place but they are too big to post on this site. If I can fathom out how to reduce them I will display them!
Last edited by Paul Braithwait; 11-11-06 at 10:12 AM.
11-17-06, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Paul Braithwait
Sorry, I don't have a pic of the bike folded with the rack in situ as I have now removed it! I have been experimenting with various options since I bought my Swift and have settled on the Carradice SQR system which allows the fitting of an SQR bag or (with optional bracket) a conventional saddle bag. It allows a variety of luggage possibilities without getting in the way of the fold as the bags can be removed very quickly. The rack sat nicely above the rear wheel without much hang-over at all. I also think it looked OK. It's the hight of the rack above the wheel that affects the fold. The closer to the wheel the rack is the closer to the seat post it goes when folded and this can stop the seat post dropping all the way. The one I had allowed the seat post to drop nearly all the way, certainly enough to hold the bike together.
I do have some pics of the bike with the rack in place but they are too big to post on this site. If I can fathom out how to reduce them I will display them!
I do have some pics of the bike with the rack in place but they are too big to post on this site. If I can fathom out how to reduce them I will display them!
Paul,
Can you fit a laptop into your carradice bag? My laptop is about 31 cm x 25 cm.
Most photo editor programs have a feature allowing for reduction in resolution.
Thanks for the info....
11-19-06, 08:50 PM
#744
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Originally Posted by law4jba
Can you fit a laptop into your carradice bag? My laptop is about 31 cm x 25 cm.
I've been meaning to post for a while, but never got around to taking pictures. I continue to do all my shopping and errands on my Swift - and if you click on my blog link below you'll see some pics of the bike loaded up with panniers (& TP!) The panniers fit fine on the rack, but I did decide to modify the lower pannier mounting, since I had nothing for the hook to attach to.
The beady-eyed amongst you may also see I've added fenderes/mudguards. They're Zefal kids ones, which only cost $5 from a French webstore, and happen to fit rather well. They also snap on/detach in a few seconds, so very convenient for somewhere like SF that is mostly sunny but gets really wet when it first chooses to rain..
11-19-06, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by yangmusa
The beady-eyed amongst you may also see I've added fenderes/mudguards.
Being tall I'm always watching out for tall people type mods...
Speedo
11-20-06, 01:14 AM
#746
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Originally Posted by yangmusa
The panniers fit fine on the rack..
but I did decide to modify the lower pannier mounting, since I had nothing for the hook to attach to.
That's an awesome setup by the way! I think I'll borrow it!
11-20-06, 09:24 AM
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I was hoping some here could hep me with a tire question.
I currently have Primo Comet 20 x 1.35 tires on my Swift. I like them but I have had a couple flats in the past year (I do about 100 miles weekly in Brooklyn and Manahattan) - and now I have decided that I want seomthing a little tougher. From reading this forum, it seems the Big Apples are the way for me to go.
So here is my question. Do I need Big Apples that are the same exact size (20 x 1.35) - or will my rims fit a wider tire?
I currently have Primo Comet 20 x 1.35 tires on my Swift. I like them but I have had a couple flats in the past year (I do about 100 miles weekly in Brooklyn and Manahattan) - and now I have decided that I want seomthing a little tougher. From reading this forum, it seems the Big Apples are the way for me to go.
So here is my question. Do I need Big Apples that are the same exact size (20 x 1.35) - or will my rims fit a wider tire?
11-20-06, 10:05 AM
#748
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I currently have Primo Comet 20 x 1.35 tires on my Swift. I like them but I have had a couple flats in the past year (I do about 100 miles weekly in Brooklyn and Manahattan) - and now I have decided that I want seomthing a little tougher. From reading this forum, it seems the Big Apples are the way for me to go.
So here is my question. Do I need Big Apples that are the same exact size (20 x 1.35) - or will my rims fit a wider tire?
So here is my question. Do I need Big Apples that are the same exact size (20 x 1.35) - or will my rims fit a wider tire?
The 50/406 BA will fit on the Swift with standard rims. Not sure about the 60/406 (but I should think it would be possible - clearances permitting).
11-20-06, 10:17 AM
#749
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Originally Posted by stronzoni
I was hoping some here could hep me with a tire question.
I currently have Primo Comet 20 x 1.35 tires on my Swift. I like them but I have had a couple flats in the past year (I do about 100 miles weekly in Brooklyn and Manahattan) - and now I have decided that I want seomthing a little tougher. From reading this forum, it seems the Big Apples are the way for me to go.
So here is my question. Do I need Big Apples that are the same exact size (20 x 1.35) - or will my rims fit a wider tire?
I currently have Primo Comet 20 x 1.35 tires on my Swift. I like them but I have had a couple flats in the past year (I do about 100 miles weekly in Brooklyn and Manahattan) - and now I have decided that I want seomthing a little tougher. From reading this forum, it seems the Big Apples are the way for me to go.
So here is my question. Do I need Big Apples that are the same exact size (20 x 1.35) - or will my rims fit a wider tire?
If you're looking for a durable city tire with more volume, then I'd recommend the 20x1.50 Kevlar Comets. They're 155 grams lighter than the Big Apples, and less rolling resistance. I find them much more comfortable for city riding than the 1.35. You lose a bit in acceleration due to the weight difference, but I find the rolling resistance to be on-par with that of the 1.35.
11-20-06, 11:12 AM
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Yes I do have the Kevlar comets...and I have had two flats over the course of the year (of course I have ridden about 2500 miles so far on the Swift this year). They have been great, I just feel like they are a little slick in the rain, and they are not very forgiving when I need to go off road (thourgh parks and other wierd places in the city)...also, when streets are filled with potholes (a huge problem in Brooklyn) I am always nervous about getting another flat.
Would you guys say that the BA's are stronger than the Kevlar comets?
by the way James, I love your bike - I was thinking of getting bullhorns myself, with super tiny BMX style brake levers to save room on the bars.
Also, have any of you guys had to change out your casette after a couple thousand miles?
Would you guys say that the BA's are stronger than the Kevlar comets?
by the way James, I love your bike - I was thinking of getting bullhorns myself, with super tiny BMX style brake levers to save room on the bars.
Also, have any of you guys had to change out your casette after a couple thousand miles?