when will the madness end James???? :)

The only things left stock on my Swift are the stempost/seatpost, seatpost QRs, and headset (that's next to go).

It's why I chose the Swift in the first place....so that I'm free to connect with the mad-scientist in me.

Oh yeah, I have a Tranz-x zero-drop bullhorn handlebar on order (for a more useable flat bar top instead of the sloping bar top of the Nashbar one I have on now). ;)

Whoa I was going to do the exact same thing the canti brakes. With the V brakes/diacompe setup i have now, the cable gets in the way at the front, intruding with a front rack I'm about to install. By the way, I read that V brakes have more stopping power than cantis, which is why I went with them in the first place. How does it compare with your former V's?

I also got a Delta Postporter quick release rack with a plastic basket zip tied to it. I can't believe I went so long without a basket! It's so convenient! No more bungee cords or sweaty back.

Also getting freddy fenders next. The apex fenders I have now do not get rid of enough road spray. I read xootr's tip on ziptie-ing them to the bike, but where would I zip tie them?

The first thing I noticed (and looked forward to) in comparison with my Avid SD-5 V-brakes was their silent operation: no squeal, no squeak. Yes! Even with their cheap cartridge pads, they stopped silently at all speeds. With the Kool Stop Salmon pads on my V-brakes, they squealed at low speeds and under hard braking. Annoying as hell. The cantis are smooth and silent.

As for braking power, they remind me a lot of my old Shimano 105 caliper brakes. In fact, the cantis work and feel just like road brakes. Although they don't have the sheer clamping power of Vs, the action and modulation of the cantis (like road brakes) is smooth and predictable. They work perfectly for "feathering", in situations where you need to make only slight adjustments to your speed such as cornering or riding in a group.

These Nashbar brakes (which look suspiciously a lot like re-branded Tektro Oryx brakes) have come a long way since the cantis on my '90 Specialized Rockhopper. They were really easy to set-up. They use standard threaded replaceable cartridge V-brake pads. The yoke has a clever alignment indicator and a guide housing for the brake cable.

I like the look of cantis on the Swift...kinda retro. ;)

This is what "Butterfly bars look like on a Swift. They are very comfortable and coupled to an adjustable stem give a huge variety of positions. No more stiff neck, sore back or numb hands!





http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...n/DSCN3847.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...n/DSCN3848.jpg

i replaced my flat nitto bullhorns with sloping ones after the former got bent in a crash, and you know, i kind of like putting my hands on that bump where the slope begins.

Now a dumb inner tube question....
 

James et al-

Thanks for the chain tug info.

I'm unsure which Nitto bars exactly I have, they resemble Dove bars but are not as wide. I specifically wanted a narrow riser bar in alloy, and my friend had these lying around used for $20. I'm running them flopped. Might be these? http://store.somafab.com/nib3allro.html

The standard Xootr lever fits fine, but I just don't care for how it's big fat clamp creases my hand while riding.

I also found a beautiful 100mm welded alloy stem on ebay for $5.

Right now the big question is whether I should run Presta or Schrader tubes? My CR18 rims seem to be drilled for Schrader but the holes are a really tight fit. The holes seem too big for Schraders so am I missing something? Do I open the holes up a bit or is there a Presta adapter for the holes I need to get?

Any non-obvious pros or cons to one type of valve vs the other? I will be running Schwalbe Marathon (Racer?) 1.50 tires at the highest pressure that rides well.

I used schrader for awhile, just switched to presta kinda by accident. I don't see any difference, there certainly isn't any performance or pressure difference.

I think Paul is referring to my handlebar madness:

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...ft/tranzx1.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...ft/tranzx2.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...ft/tranzx3.jpg

My new TranzX bullhorns (slightly modified by removing 2cm of length from the ends). This latest incarnation of my Swift is what I call the answer to all those who question the ability to sprint/climb out of the saddle on a folding bike. ;)

Edit: I installed my Kool Stop salmon pads on the cantis, but this time I swapped-out the washers on the brake pad studs so that the pads are pushed out a few millimeters further from the cantilever arms (increasing the cantilever angle). Massive difference in braking power! Just a minor adjustment has transformed these brakes from a road-bike caliper feel to an entirely different beast. Better than the V-brakes ever worked on this bike. Only a small amount of input at the lever is required to effectively bring the bike to a halt. Great for riding in tight traffic. Now I see why a lot of cyclocross bikes still come with cantilever brakes. :)

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...im/canti2a.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...im/canti2b.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...im/canti2c.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p...im/canti2d.jpg

That's awesome! Going to order canti's asap. One more question though: Do the cantis have more or less clearance for fenders compared to V brakes?

Yeah the geometry on canti's is enormously important. You can have a crappy performance or a super-power stopping power performance, depending on how close the bridge is to the wheel.

As the pads wear, the power will diminish. With the older type cantis with smooth stud you can adjust throughout their life. But I prefer the type you have - less hassle.

I like the black bar tape better.

James, I just noticed that you have two brake levers, but only one brake. Are they both for the front brake? I thought about how cool it would be to have that, but I didn't think it was possible.

Yeah, I have 2 cross levers pulling one cable to the front brake. Trick-looking and works seamlessly. Just make sure you measure your brake cable twice (and cut once).

I get a bit more clearance with the cantis than the V-brakes (fenders would rub against the V-brake cable).

Paul;
What is the width of your butterfly bars? Are they wider, narrower, or the same width as the stock Swift bars? They look nice, can utilize the v-brake levers and sram shifting gear, and give you multiple hand positions.
Thanks
PCG

They are a lot wider than the stock Swift bars (560mm centre to centre) which initially put me off them but in practise they work very well and allow a great number of positions to stave of stiff neck, wrist, shoulder etc. I have them linked to an adjustable stem which offers an even greater number of permutations. They do look a bit odd and bulky compared to the standard bars but they are light and give great control over the bike. I also have a bar end bell fitted (left hand bar end) which is a very handy gadget that does not require any bar space. The bars are made by Modolo who make several variations of the Butterfly design; the one I have is the only one I could find in the UK. If you like to travel any great distance on your Swift I can highly recommend them. All the Swifts brake and SRAM shifters fit without modification.

Hi Paul,

Just noticed the extra clamp built for the handlebar bag. Looks like a stem mounted to the handlebar post with a super-narrow handlebar. Neat trick.

-G

Found Some!!!!

Worldwide Yacht Support in Lodon can supply Boeshield T9 but it is not cheap. I found a US supplier selling 4oz bottles for $4. which is about £2 but in the UK it will cost you £8.65 plus postage! It cannot be bought mail order from the US for some reason.

Contact www.worldwideyachtsupport.com for details. Don't worry about it not being in the "Cycle-lube" bottle because Boeshield comes in a variety of containers (aimed at different markets) but the same formula is in every bottle or can! It is good stuff - but at what we have to pay for it in the UK it should be.

Yes, it is a really great idea supplied by www.sjscycles.co.uk. (look under lights - accessory brackets) I have used it for lights or the bar bag in various positions on the stem riser. It keeps the bar clear of clutter and, by dropping the bar bag down the stem, allows bar mounted lights to shine over the bag and onto the road! There are two models, the one I use is 55mm long, front to back and the other is 105mm. It is light but much stronger than the Minaura brackets and fits the standard diameter stem riser of the Swift and other bikes. I tried to copy the photo from the sjs web page without success but below is their description.



Thorn Accessory Bar (T shaped) with 55mm extension - mounts to 1 1/8inch steerer tube for lights/computers etc



Other products in Accessory Fitting Brackets



Buy Now - Choose Your Options:
Thorn Accessory Bar (T shaped) with 55mm extension - mounts to 1 1/8inch steerer tube for lights/computers etc
Price: £14.99







Description

Customer Reviews
A really useful T shaped bar for lights and computers when handlebar space is at a premium. Takes up the space of a 1 1/8 headset spacer on the fork steerer tube (27mm deep clamp). Dimensions: extends 55mm forward, striaght section width 150mm and 22.2mm diameter. Single clamp allen key bolt at rear, hard black finish. 95gms.
Thorn Accessory Bar (T shaped) with 55mm extension - mounts to 1 1/8inch steerer tube for lights/computers etc

Get it from the US from Aircraftspruce - they're of the cheapest plus they will ship. Make sure you select the squeeze bottle, not the aerosol, that could be the shipping reason. What's your US source?

Paul, assuming you've bought and used it -did it stop the slipping for you?

Yes it is really good stuff to use on the seatpost, chain etc.

Dropping the chain
 

Hey all. I've been absolutely loving my Swift. It is fast, fun, and makes great sense with city living and occasional multimodal commuting. Despite its less-than-miniscule fold, I'm able to take it with me most places: I pop it in the cart while grocery shopping, stand it in the corner of my office, carry it to the teller window at the bank, etc.

It has been completely up to the task of my 30 mi r/t commute; after some fiddling to address creaking and groaning, the ride beats the pants off my hardtail with slicks.

My one issue has been with dropping my chain-- usually (but not always) while shifting; if not then, then over a bump or through a pothole. I gather that this is a common problem with a single front ring setup (though once the drop was off the big ring of the cassette rather than off the front!). But it seems to be getting more frequent-- at least once a ride, sometimes twice. Has anyone else experienced this, and if so, what are my options? I gather there is some kind of roller device? I'd rather avoid hanging something off the bike if I can avoid it (if I can't, I can't). Would shortening the chain help. or would it just make it that much harder to put the chain back on when it pops off? Any advice would be much appreciated.

I can address the creaking and groaning:

Get yourself a bottle of Boeshield or 3-in-One and apply a light coat to the seatpost. If using Boeshield, let dry for a few minutes. Wipe-off excess in either case. Apply a few drops of lube to both quick-release clamps, and a light application to the seat tube ends (where the tubes separate during the folding).

As for the chain drop, it's been a while since I had a multiple-gear setup on my swift, but I do recall the chain dropping during rapid multiple shifts or shifting while riding over a bump. Maybe someone else here can help you with that. :)

This is certainly a common problem and I used to have this all the time on my Dahon Speed Pro (single front-ring, 8-speed rear just like the swift) but interestingly I've never had this problem on the swift, and I've put in many miiles now over the last few months. My swift has the standard chainring and chainguard on, and I keep the chain lubed regularly (with the new finish line pro-road ceramic lube). The Speed pro had a 105 10-speed chainring (much narrower than the swifts) and I didn't lube the chain enough. The chain would fall off about once a week, always under hard accelleration. If you look at the moultons with a similar setup you will see that many of them have a device to keep the chain on. Mind you the Speed pro has a similar device and that obviously didn't work.

So my advice would be to make sure the chain is well lubed (and you clean it properly first) and if you've changed the chainring, check if it's a narrower profile to the standard one.

Failing that, it might be to do with the tension in the rear mech - as this is something set up by the shop (or not) there is likely to be a variation in tension between yours and mine that might explain why some of our chains come off and yours does.

It would be useful to see a show of hands to see how many othew swift owners have this problem, and how many don't.

I've had my Swift for over a year and have not had the chain derail even after changing the rear cassette to lower the gearing. It shifts perfectly everytime. Of course, having now said that I bet it jumps off just to spite me!

My girlfriend's chain jumped off several times while we were touring San Francisco. All of those times she wasn't even shifting. I suggest getting the roller thing from gaerlan.

The chief purpose of the chain guard is to prevent the chain from falling off. (I can elaborate but njo time now.) If there is a chain guard on both sides of the chain on the crank, then it is extremely unlikely to fall off. Regardless of widths.

Falling off at the back is purely a derailer adjustment issue.

Does anyone have some news about the new swift frame?
I got this great Torpedo Duomatic hub (two gears - switching by back-pedaling - no cables required) and it performs very well on one of my other bikes. But I'd really like to see it on a swift frame. My fixed swift is absolutely perfect and I will not change a screw, so I am looking for an other frame.
Is the re-designed swift-frame allready available?

I haven't been posting for a while since James and others offered useful advice about a fixie conversion.

In any case, I just unfolded my Xootr swift and couldn't put the seatpost into the seat tube. The reason: the seat stays had broken a bit below the pivot right by the lower seat post quick release. I'm attaching a picture.

I guess a crack might have been there for a while, but I never noticed it and had ridden the bike earlier today and then folded it with no problem that I noticed.

I've emailed Xootr, but couldn't expect anyone to get back to me until after the holiday weekend. Has any one else had anything like this happen to them?
Thanks,

Jonathan