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Conversion: Dahon Espresso to Drops & STI's

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Conversion: Dahon Espresso to Drops & STI's

Old 08-27-14, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by DR03K
Sorry, only just noticed this reply! - my apologies.

I've actually taken the next step now and gone ahead with the full geared conversion, similar to your own schocca.
I've used mainly 9 speed sora RD/shifters/gears - fsa crankset and the cyclocross FD (10 speed top pull).

Only issue I'm having is with the bottom bracket. Did you change the stock bottom bracket on the dahon?

It would appear the spindle length on mine is too long for the FSA crankset, the FD cage doesn't swing out enough, even with limit screw fully out.

Any suggestions on the correct BB to use?
You can use any standard BB. Mine has the Tiagra 2010 groupset standard BB (otherwise the cranks would not fit). My LBS who did the work did not report any problems with the BB install.
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Old 08-29-14, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by schocca
You can use any standard BB. Mine has the Tiagra 2010 groupset standard BB (otherwise the cranks would not fit). My LBS who did the work did not report any problems with the BB install.
Conversion completed. Ended up taking it to LBS for the BB install.

Done a quick 20 mile ride on bike since and I'm really happy with the conversion. Bit heavier than road bike, but rides really nicely.

Shall post weight and pictures when I get chance.
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Old 09-02-14, 03:34 AM
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Picture of finished conversion.
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Old 11-13-20, 11:04 PM
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Hi all,

I know this topic has been around for a while, but I wonder if anybody still has the parts list for the Dahon Espresso road bike conversion?

cheers!
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Old 11-16-20, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by onionsmasher
Hi all,


I know this topic has been around for a while, but I wonder if anybody still has the parts list for the Dahon Espresso road bike conversion?


cheers!

Hi - That's me - are you after the Tiagra version (silver) or the Sora version (black)? I'm still using the bike although it has been made into an exercise trainer for the moment due to life commitments...Netflix is nice and I don't get wet! Current real road mileage with it is approx 4500+ miles.


Note that in the UK, I rarely see the frames (or the bikes) available on eBay now... so if you see a Dahon Jack / Dahon Espresso and this is project you want to do, grab it while you can!


From the Flickr post for my Silver Dahon (https://www.flickr.com/photos/779813...n/photostream/) ->

1) Groupset is a compact Tiagra 2012. Changes to this is as follows: For the front D, I've changed it to the Cyclocross CX60 which is compatible with Tiagra (as the CX60 is a top pull unit) 2) Brakes - Front brake is regular as I'm using a standard carbon road fork. Back caliper is another front brake (long drop as well) as the hole for the mudguard is too small to run the proper rear brake fitting. Don't forget to use washers that spread the load over the bridge... 3) If you look at other pictures, you can see I've also installed top pull crane creek brakes - I use these as commute mostly in London and want brakes wherever my hands are on the bars. 4) Keeping the weight down to approx 10.1Kgs: - Use of SDG saddle and SDG post (I already had an SDG saddle from another Dahon Presto Lite and the post was very very cheap!) - Shimano R500 wheels (with aftermarket titanium skewers) - Cheap and cheerful 23c Schwalbe Blizzard tyres and Specialized turbos inner tubes. (no problems with them for the last 600 miles I've been riding this). - FSA compact handlebar To really push this bike lower in weight, then I would consider the following: a) Replacing selected Tiagra bits with Ultegra - Save approx 0.6kg-0.8kg b) Replacing the wheelset with a prolite version - Save approx 0.3kg c) Replace front forks with completely carbon - Save approx 0.3Kg d) Replace bars with carbon bars - Save approx 0.2Kg e) Remove the top cross brakes - Save 0.1Kg.


Gosh, that was a long time ago! - current spec - Ultegra wheelset (absolutely worth every penny and a great ride) + Durano tyres (never had a flat if you keep them pumped up) + brakes to Ultegra.

- I also suspect that the 11 spd Shimano series requires the same rear space that MTB Deore used to need - so the Dahon Jack frame would work even better... (the 2012 Tiagra is a 10 spd groupset and the frame bends inwards slightly to fit this).


Note - I only ride Dahon Jack/Espresso folders in either MTB or road format. So cannot comment on how good a non-folding road bike is as I never ride them! ;-)

- We have three folders in the garage - all Dahon Jacks/Espressos - an excellent bike frame which has rarely been bettered... (and it all fits in the boot for a nice holiday cycle).


- Feel free to ask further q's as needed...



Schocca
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Old 11-17-20, 10:40 PM
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Hi Schocca, thank you for the great length you took to answer my question! I am surely in need of a guide as I look for a possible path for parts upgrade for my Espresso! Are both Tiagra and Sora version compatible with the frame? So far I'm a bit leaning to the Tiagra version, as I think I can source the parts easier, the only hard to get currently is the FD.

So for a bit background, I happen to own a Dahon Espresso myself, bought it over 10 years ago. For some reason, I stopped cycling and after years earlier this year, I decided to bring it to my local bike shop and restore it. I have been cycling around the town with it since.

So I notice that the stock parts on Dahon Espresso have become less common these days, like the bike is still using freewheels while nowadays the industry seems to have moved to freehubs. In case I need a part replacement, I figure might as well upgrade the bike. The road bike path would be good for me as I plan to ride the bike within the city (and carry some groceries along the way).


My Dahon Espresso - mostly still using stock parts except for the saddle, pedal, additional rack, and mudguards.
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Old 11-27-20, 10:05 PM
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So I did some parts browsing and try to estimate the damage, but it seems the CX-70 FD would be the hardest part to find.

That being said, I was wondering if we can fit a 1x system in Dahon Espresso (say, a Shimano GRX 1x11 groupset)? If I got it right, we can use road bike brifters to pair with the GRX (as the GRX brifters are designed for disc brakes) and also need to find a wheelset that is compatible with 11-speed cassettes (Shimano RS010 maybe?). The downside to this path is that I have to sacrifice gear range as opposed to using 2x systems, but I think it would do for commuting and some planned light touring. Shimano GRX system are also newer so it would be much easier to find.
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Old 07-04-22, 10:11 AM
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Bb size type

Hi all, great conversions. Can anyone recommend a bottom bracket to replace existing. I have recently converted my Dahon Espresso to a gravel bike. But the bottom bracket has been making some knocking noises. From initial measurements the axle length is 113mm and the bracket size is 68mm. I am not sure what the thread would be. English I expect? Any advice would be wonderful.
Many thanks
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Old 07-04-22, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by iplode
Hi all, great conversions. I am not sure what the thread would be. English I expect? Any advice would be wonderful.
Many thanks
Youíre quite correct. Itís standard BSA threading.

i upgraded the square tapered standard triple crank to an FSA 50/34 with outboard bearings that I harvested from another project.

It works fine; the top-pull Shimano Cx70 front derailleur shifts sweeter than any of my other bikes.
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Old 07-04-22, 03:46 PM
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Old 03-17-24, 04:35 PM
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^ that Dahonís frame cracked, was welded, cracked again and is now landfill.

The parts are now on this:



Converting:



Project now completed with a Swytch electric front wheel. Awesome fun to ride.
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Old 03-18-24, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Barchettaman
^ that Dahonís frame cracked, was welded, cracked again and is now landfill.
.
Where did it crack?
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Old 03-18-24, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Fentuz
Where did it crack?
seat tube.




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Old 03-25-24, 12:32 AM
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Seat tube crack: Common on Dahons, usually smaller 20" folders with a much longer seat tube and thus greater moment for the same rider weight. Improvements have been an aluminum (replacing plastic) sleeve ("shim") between seatpost and seat tube, and on aluminum frames a gusset on top between the top tube and seat tube. Your crack originated at the edge of the weld, one of the reasons that premium aluminum frames like Cannondales "dress" (strip-sand) the welds to a smoothly blended radius, this distributes the localized strain and stress on the tubing better. Post-weld heat-treating 6061-T6 aluminum frames also helps, but modern 7005 aluminum developed specifically for bike frames, obviates the need for that.

I had one of their 4130 steel frames crack there, didn't see it until the crack was too far gone, so I frequently inspect there to catch any crack in its early stages, so would drill crack end or grind out, smooth edge well and burnish well (similar to shot-peening) as this improves fatigue life.

Last edited by Duragrouch; 03-25-24 at 12:38 AM.
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