Hey everyone,

I've been thinking on getting me a Brom. I saw some pictures of 1-speed Broms with no mudguards and I love the simplicity of it (and of course, lighter and cheaper)... but I'm wondering if I won't be missing those speeds. Where I live is not hilly, though. I also read that no mudguards means it's harder to keep it folded... it this accurate?

I know that some of you in here have an S1E... it'd be awesome if you could share your experience with it.

Thanks in advance!
SR

Fenders have nothing to do with the fold per say, but they stabilize the bike in the folding position. The small wheel on the rear fender combined with the easy wheels create a tripod affect to keep the bike upright when folded. This small fender wheel also allows the bike to roll along the ground for short distances.

As for gearing it certainly is a personal choice on what is appropriate. When I was contemplating a single speed, the sales person suggested that since you are going to have the chain tensioner anyways, you might as well get a two speed. It doesn't add much weight and still looks pretty good. In the end I purchased the 3 speed and now with hindsight, I should have went with the two speed since I only use two of my three gears.

I did test ride a single speed, fenderless Brompton, with the fast tires and there was a noticeable difference between this and what I bought. The single speed seemed so much lighter and faster.

Again it all depends on what you are going to use the bike for.

I recently switched out my 6-speed rear wheel and put in a 2-speed - the standard being 12/16T - yet even with a 44T chainring option (-12%) the first gear is on the high side for hill-humping. That said, I'm not that fit so I'm looking into the 39T as an improvement.

There's no real benefit to a single-speed other than minimal price/weight-savings and an affirmation of your personal fitness over any terrain. A properly set-up 2-speed offers a bailout gear with cruising gear that has far more benefits imo.

I've got it, but with a 3 speed.

Without the fender, it folds up fine. Except, I find that when pushing the seat all the way down to the fold-up position, it helps to tilt the bike a bit away from the handlebar side, don't know if that's because I don't have a fender or not. It seems to help the front wheel settle onto the chain stay and not bind against the seat post, as the seat post is trying to slide down.

When the bike is in the folded up position, it leans a bit towards the rear wheel side. The rear fender wheel isn't there to push it up an inch or so to make it level. So when folded, it can tip over easier, toward the rear wheel side. But you get used to that and it's not a problem. It also doesn't roll as well, when on the easy wheels, since it's leaning a bit, but this doesn't matter to me because I never roll it on the easy wheels anyways, if I have to move it and it's folded up, I carry it.

I took the dorky looking reflector that's on top of the front brakes off. Changed the bell. Put on a mountain bike handlebar, and grips. I put an extension on the stem to raise my handle bars up a couple of inches because I'm tall and as you can see I have the seat up high with a telescopic seat post.

The bike definitely looks way cooler, sporty and streamline. I get a lot of people come up to tell me how much that like it. Kids and teens also speak out when I'm riding by and say "cool bike" or "I like your bike", etc.

I think the 3 speed is the best for simplicity, and won't order it any other way, but then that's just my opinion. I have a low gear for when I need it. I regular gear for when I'm going slow in a crowd or up a slight hill. Plus 3rd gear is great for cruising on flat ground, a straight-away or down a hill.

M3L here..

the 2 speed uses the same hub as the 1 speed .. 2 cogs ,+ the shifter, & lever (& bell?) its on the left grip side.

Its pushing the seat on the seat post all the way down that keeps the rear end from unfolding
(you do that Last)

the hook on the left side of the front fork , hooks over the right chainstay . 1
and the steering mast catch on the right fork crown keeps that closed in the folded position. 2

You have an Idea what size you want that 1 gear to Be?

high would be the 12:54. low would be the 16:44

Thank you guys for taking the time to answer.
@ed your Brom is gorgeous!
@fietsbob No idea what I want the 1 gear to be... I'm not very versed on that subject could you please explain the difference between high and low?

From what I'm reading tho I guess the 2 or 3 speed are better options...

If weight is a factor, then 2-speed. If versatility is a factor, then 3-speed or 6-speed.

1-speed is if you absolutely desire the simplicity of maintenance and design. I've never tried a Brompton 1-speed but I doubt the distinct lack of practicality is worth the savings. I would go so far as to say only get the 1-speed once you've owned a Brompton before and know exactly what you're getting into.

Also, getting a 2-speed or 3-speed opens up the possibility of an easy upgrade to 6-speed if you ever feel any desire to tour or go longer distances.

its a Ratio (math) tooth count front, turns tooth count rear, by multiplication..
(or small divides into large by those numbers )
then you multiply that by the wheel diameter in inches .

that, in a common way to perceive it, is Gear Inches
[as if it were 1 big drive wheel on like a penny farthing bike]

the factory has 12, 13 15 & 16 t cogs (maybe a 14 too) .. and 3 chainring choices 44, 50 & 54t

44:13x16" is about 54" 54:12x16" =72

if a 3 speed IGH like the BSR then that gear can be made 3/4 or 4/3rds as small/big
by the internal gears in the hub,,

Hmm seems I made a mistake.

https://bromptontalk.wikispaces.com/Gearing
"The 3 speed cannot be easily/cheaply converted into a 6 speed as it is a different hub so your expensive 3-speed hub is not needed and has to be put aside."

Also note the 1-speed:

• Pros - the simplest, lightest, arguably the most efficient gearing, is a single freewheel gear, for the purist you know exactly what this choice means.

IMO by your emphasis on simplicity and flatness, a 2-speed is going to serve your needs just fine, plus you have a somewhat less messy upgrade to a 6-speed if you ever feel the need to. As it differs from person to person, it makes sense to get that till you have experience and some knowledge of Brompton gearings before picking up a 1 or 3-speed.

I started with a 6-speed in mountain-less Singapore, which served my needs just fine, but I'm now experimenting with weight-weenie alternatives to find a perfect compromise (for me) between weight and gearing and cost.

the BWR hub and the 1&2 speed hub use the same cogs ..

someone mentioned a 3 titanium cog kit made over in your part of the world
to replace the 2 on the 9 spline driver..

An earlier hub for their 6 speed was sourced from Sachs in Germany It used the 3 spline cog in 3/32" thickness .
a 13t & a 15t.. the 15t skips a few teeth, as shift gates

Sachs was Bought out by Sram , and the tools in the factory were shipped to Taiwan.

So, those hubs are no longer made , which is why Brompton has the New BWR,

from the new owners of Sturmey Archer , also on the same Island.