Brompton S bar conversion
#1
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Brompton S bar conversion
Replaced the S bar with a Tioga R60 that I ordered from Chain Reaction so that I could get higher on my Brompton. Added Shimano brake levers that I had in my parts bin. Still need a gear changer cable, so I will have to order that as the Brompton dealer didn't have any in stock. Took it for a small ride and the it seems comfortable, at least more comfortable than the S bar.
You can see the difference in height between the M bar and my conversion. It is pretty close.
The fold. The bar is pretty close to the ground but it just clears.
Everything needs to be tweaked but so far a success.
You can see the difference in height between the M bar and my conversion. It is pretty close.
The fold. The bar is pretty close to the ground but it just clears.
Everything needs to be tweaked but so far a success.
Last edited by blakcloud; 07-10-17 at 08:24 PM. Reason: Rehosted photos.
#2
Banned
nothing that weird about the cables and housing .. Brompton uses Jagwire's products . now.
Id just buy their regular stuff ..
Brompton has somebody in the factory Precutting the housing length from a big roll .
Id just buy their regular stuff ..
Brompton has somebody in the factory Precutting the housing length from a big roll .
#3
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Replaced the S bar with a Tioga R60 that I ordered from Chain Reaction so that I could get higher on my Brompton. Added Shimano brake levers that I had in my parts bin. Still need a gear changer cable, so I will have to order that as the Brompton dealer didn't have any in stock. Took it for a small ride and the it seems comfortable, at least more comfortable than the S bar.
You can see the difference in height between the M bar and my conversion. It is pretty close.
You can see the difference in height between the M bar and my conversion. It is pretty close.
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Hmm I'm fairly certain I heard someone mention the R60s simply could not fit through the Brompton stem.
BTW it looks great except you haven't considered narrowing the bar? AFAIK the std M-bar is 515mm wide so narrowing the bar by about 15-20mm on each end you could give yourself more clearance while still being wider than a Brompton handlebar. If you push your bike around regularly like me, there's bound to be a fair amount of tipping over and damaging the handlebar, especially given the new height.
I'm going to do something similar for my wife's new Brompton, and I'm still trying to decide how much to hack off her 700mm wide bar (75mm rise). Hers is an M-type (because the remaining S-type colors suck), so her handlebar will probably end up lowers than yours.
BTW it looks great except you haven't considered narrowing the bar? AFAIK the std M-bar is 515mm wide so narrowing the bar by about 15-20mm on each end you could give yourself more clearance while still being wider than a Brompton handlebar. If you push your bike around regularly like me, there's bound to be a fair amount of tipping over and damaging the handlebar, especially given the new height.
I'm going to do something similar for my wife's new Brompton, and I'm still trying to decide how much to hack off her 700mm wide bar (75mm rise). Hers is an M-type (because the remaining S-type colors suck), so her handlebar will probably end up lowers than yours.
#5
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S is also a Short peoples fit. H is for Higher ..
looking at the comparison chart for the 4.. bar clamp height for H&S look similar so swapping the M bar
for the slightly lower rise one the OP chose, would give more fold to ground clearance for the bar end,
(as would just sawing 12mm off the left end.)
looking at the comparison chart for the 4.. bar clamp height for H&S look similar so swapping the M bar
for the slightly lower rise one the OP chose, would give more fold to ground clearance for the bar end,
(as would just sawing 12mm off the left end.)
#6
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Hmm I'm fairly certain I heard someone mention the R60s simply could not fit through the Brompton stem.
BTW it looks great except you haven't considered narrowing the bar? AFAIK the std M-bar is 515mm wide so narrowing the bar by about 15-20mm on each end you could give yourself more clearance while still being wider than a Brompton handlebar. If you push your bike around regularly like me, there's bound to be a fair amount of tipping over and damaging the handlebar, especially given the new height.
I'm going to do something similar for my wife's new Brompton, and I'm still trying to decide how much to hack off her 700mm wide bar (75mm rise). Hers is an M-type (because the remaining S-type colors suck), so her handlebar will probably end up lowers than yours.
BTW it looks great except you haven't considered narrowing the bar? AFAIK the std M-bar is 515mm wide so narrowing the bar by about 15-20mm on each end you could give yourself more clearance while still being wider than a Brompton handlebar. If you push your bike around regularly like me, there's bound to be a fair amount of tipping over and damaging the handlebar, especially given the new height.
I'm going to do something similar for my wife's new Brompton, and I'm still trying to decide how much to hack off her 700mm wide bar (75mm rise). Hers is an M-type (because the remaining S-type colors suck), so her handlebar will probably end up lowers than yours.
I could cut down the bars even more than I did but that would mean cutting the grips down since there won't be enough room for the full length grips, brake levers and gear shift lever. I never push the bike so I am not too concerned about it tipping over that way at least. If I find it to be a problem I still have the option of cutting more off.
Have fun with your wife's bike. You should be able to find a bar that is perfect in height and width.
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I don't think there's any appreciable flex in the m bars, the flex comes from the ancient stem design where you have a 1 inch tube exiting the steerer at the point of maximum stress. I did a lot of experimentation on this and realized there's very little that can be done to reduce flex except using a configuration that involves lowering the handlebars. Incidently, most riser bars are for downhill use and are heavy and the S stem is around 80g heavier than the M stem, so over all the configuration is heavier.
#8
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the early Version, 15/16, sleeved , shiny... was different from the current M bar 7/8, Bulged , matte ... though both are 1" in the center
for the Mk2 bars there is a connecting brace available .. others have made their own, using the extra crossbar to mount more E things ..
Pootling along at a modest pace puts very little stress on the bars , in my experience ..
old metal S-A triggers Did have a different end than common Derailleur cables's small barrel ends
havent torn the newer Plastic, much easier shifting one, down, myself..
S riser is longer above fork-headset to the bar clamp than the M . as well..
a bit more steel tube.. length.. IDK if tubewall thickness is different..
for the Mk2 bars there is a connecting brace available .. others have made their own, using the extra crossbar to mount more E things ..
Pootling along at a modest pace puts very little stress on the bars , in my experience ..
old metal S-A triggers Did have a different end than common Derailleur cables's small barrel ends
havent torn the newer Plastic, much easier shifting one, down, myself..
S riser is longer above fork-headset to the bar clamp than the M . as well..
a bit more steel tube.. length.. IDK if tubewall thickness is different..
Last edited by fietsbob; 07-28-14 at 07:46 AM.
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I don't think there's any appreciable flex in the m bars, the flex comes from the ancient stem design where you have a 1 inch tube exiting the steerer at the point of maximum stress. I did a lot of experimentation on this and realized there's very little that can be done to reduce flex except using a configuration that involves lowering the handlebars. Incidently, most riser bars are for downhill use and are heavy and the S stem is around 80g heavier than the M stem, so over all the configuration is heavier.
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Your tioga bar is stiffer for sure, but the amount of flex in the handlebar is negligible compared to the bending in the base of the stem that is amplified along the length of the entire stem/handlebar assembly and experienced as flex when pulling on the handlebars. This is exacerbated by the fact that the expander stem system is not designed to eliminate play fully, the tiniest gap between steerer and stem results in play since it's only the lowest portion of the stem that's wedged in place... it's really just not properly designed.
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Nonetheless imo the weight of the bike is a huge contributor to the bike's portability. Lighter is (almost) always better. It allows me to carry it with my arms sticking out up several narrow stairs onto the local bus. It allows me to re-position the bike with less effort on a crowded train. Essentially it lets me manipulate the bike single-handedly in awkward positions without looking like I'm wrestling with it (and losing). That's essentially what I encountered with my 20" Dahon Mu Uno - supposedly one of the lightest Dahons around - and which has made me appreciate the Brompton all the more.
Even so, I'm currently using the Brooks B67 and Ergons GP2s, and wouldn't trade them out for the world.
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Except stock Bromptons has never been about the weight - ever - but the tiny fold. Anyone buying a Brompton mainly for their weight is doing it wrong
Nonetheless imo the weight of the bike is a huge contributor to the bike's portability. Lighter is (almost) always better. It allows me to carry it with my arms sticking out up several narrow stairs onto the local bus. It allows me to re-position the bike with less effort on a crowded train. Essentially it lets me manipulate the bike single-handedly in awkward positions without looking like I'm wrestling with it (and losing). That's essentially what I encountered with my 20" Dahon Mu Uno - supposedly one of the lightest Dahons around - and which has made me appreciate the Brompton all the more.
Even so, I'm currently using the Brooks B67 and Ergons GP2s, and wouldn't trade them out for the world.
Nonetheless imo the weight of the bike is a huge contributor to the bike's portability. Lighter is (almost) always better. It allows me to carry it with my arms sticking out up several narrow stairs onto the local bus. It allows me to re-position the bike with less effort on a crowded train. Essentially it lets me manipulate the bike single-handedly in awkward positions without looking like I'm wrestling with it (and losing). That's essentially what I encountered with my 20" Dahon Mu Uno - supposedly one of the lightest Dahons around - and which has made me appreciate the Brompton all the more.
Even so, I'm currently using the Brooks B67 and Ergons GP2s, and wouldn't trade them out for the world.
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Looking slick!
Does anyone know the weights of the Brompton S handlebar and M handlebar themselves?
Does anyone know the weights of the Brompton S handlebar and M handlebar themselves?
Last edited by bromptonben; 08-01-14 at 06:36 PM.
#16
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Yea, But ... if the steering post came up to the same height as the M bar, with a straight bar, the steel would weigh More ..
so the retrofit , where the S bar was too low is a good move..
so the retrofit , where the S bar was too low is a good move..
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I bought the S type, but I'm going to get 3" rise X Carbon handlebars at 162 grams. It will end up weighing less the the M type and slightly wider, although it will be 1.27cm lower.
Last edited by bromptonben; 08-02-14 at 07:12 PM.
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I bought the S type, but I'm going to get 3" rise X Carbon handlebars at 162 grams. It will end up weighing less the the M type and slightly wider, although it will be 1.27cm lower.
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"X Carbon handle bars are designed for BMX racing only. They meet or exceed ENBMX Category 2 standards and fit standard 22.2 Ø stems. X bars should be installed by a professional bicycle mechanic and inspected for damage after crashing or impacting the ground or other objects."
If not, I'll try the Triple Taper Aluminum Handlebars. No disclaimer there!
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I bought the S type, but I'm going to get 3" rise X Carbon handlebars at 162 grams. It will end up weighing less the the M type and slightly wider, although it will be 1.27cm lower.
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#22
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& saw a bit off the left end if it hits the ground.
the 'triple taper' ones look like it's all 7/8" tube (BMX its common)
so the shim out to 1" will isolate the bar from the clamp..
M bar comes straight up so the width for the grips + shifter is Better .
but if Low weight is paramount you wont have any gears but 1.
so just brake levers.
the 'triple taper' ones look like it's all 7/8" tube (BMX its common)
so the shim out to 1" will isolate the bar from the clamp..
M bar comes straight up so the width for the grips + shifter is Better .
but if Low weight is paramount you wont have any gears but 1.
so just brake levers.
Last edited by fietsbob; 08-03-14 at 04:27 PM.
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#24
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FWIW, the Brompton SAP (saddle adapter pin) installed facing forwards moves the seat closer yet, towards the handlebars
than is possible just putting the saddle clip ahead of the seat post, and pushing the seat forwards on it's rails ..
seems a straight bar in an M riser would be lower yet ,
I'm not sure how much the bend in the various riser types [M,P,S,H] differs for the reach . less bend would bring it back .. some.
than is possible just putting the saddle clip ahead of the seat post, and pushing the seat forwards on it's rails ..
seems a straight bar in an M riser would be lower yet ,
I'm not sure how much the bend in the various riser types [M,P,S,H] differs for the reach . less bend would bring it back .. some.
Last edited by fietsbob; 08-08-14 at 10:56 AM.
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FWIW, the Brompton SAP (saddle adapter pin) installed facing forwards moves the seat closer yet, towards the handlebars
than is possible just putting the saddle clip ahead of the seat post, and pushing the seat forwards on it's rails ..
seems a straight bar in an M riser would be lower yet ,
I'm not sure how much the bend in the various riser types [M,P,S,H] differs for the reach . less bend would bring it back .. some.
than is possible just putting the saddle clip ahead of the seat post, and pushing the seat forwards on it's rails ..
seems a straight bar in an M riser would be lower yet ,
I'm not sure how much the bend in the various riser types [M,P,S,H] differs for the reach . less bend would bring it back .. some.
Obviously the flat S-bar can't do that, but a 40mm or more rise should allow the bars to be moved back so the rider does not have to reach as far.
I fitted an Octane One 75mm rise handlebar on my wife's M-type stem and the angle could be moved back and forth to account for riding posture. Only thing is the gear shifters had to adjusted a little as well.