prairiepedaler

I had a bit of an anticlimactic episode recently with a bike I came across. I didn't notice that it had been in an accident, namely a front end collision. The paint on the bottom of the down and top tubes is not broken, but there definetely is a touch of metal bunching. Anyone work on a problem like this and resolve it successfully? Too bad about the bike, it's a nice old tourer and in a super colour.

Andrew R Stewart 

Yes, have done that. What's your idea of the goal/result? Andy

zandoval 

Strip the paint then inspect it closely inside and out. If its sound then put it back together and get ta ridding...

unterhausen

If that rides okay, I would just leave it. Did it have a special rack for those fork braze ons?

prairiepedaler

Hi, thanks for the input. This bike is one size too small (24"ST), but has a 23" TT which could still work with some parts changes. The thing fell into my lap so I couldn't turn it away. I'm fairly certain I wouldn't have made the effort to pick it up if I had noticed that bend. Size deficiency is ok, but mis-alignment on top of it is kind of ruinous for use.

I was going to ride it for a while and see what it feels like. I mean, it's cheap transportation and the bike is nice looking. These old classic road bikes are really wonderful but aren't practical for my type of riding. I was in the market for a Jamis Coda Sport, or comparable steel hybrid. Fatter tires really helps in my size (our roads are terrible) and for load carrying.

The front fork brazeon is kind of unique. I have no idea if special racks mounted to it or they just wanted to give the owner opportunity to fix a rack by different mounting points. This bike has a chain hanger and 48 spoke rear wheel based around a suzue tandem hub. Lock nut spacing is 126-7mm. I could take some more pictures of it if threadlookers wish. I think I might just post the bike as a local for-trade ad.

Park Tool apparently made a jig which helps straighten out the headtube in this situation.



Edit - One thing I noticed on this frame, is the downtube is tapered; thinner at the headtube joint than the rest. I'll have to put a caliper on it to see if it is thinner down at the bottom bracket. Apparently this manufacturer used this configuration as a stiffener to the frame. Below is a link to the same bike. I think there is no advantage and probably a disadvantage to placing those cantilever brakes between the seat tube and stays. Maybe they did that to get the calipers out of the way of the bags? Who knows.

https://armadacycles.files.wordpress...8/cimg3945.jpg

unterhausen

I have tried to use one of those frame jacks, but it didn't do much before I ran out of strength. But I'm sure I tried it on a heavy bike, I gather they work better on lightweight tubes.

Andrew R Stewart 

Wrong size, bent frame, not what OP was looking for and yet...

The frame jack shown is a very powerful tool and can do more harm if not careful. One possibility is ovalizing of the head tube if not well supported (and why I find it "interesting" to show this tool used on a Viscount, famous for rather light weight production frames). I strongly suggest using the head set cups as reinforcing rings when this type of tool is applied.

The challenges with this type of repair can be how far to bend the frame "back". Using the tubes to re establish a straight line can be hard since the bent section work hardens and often that original ripple remains. The mentioned doing other damage with poor tool handling. If the frame has any twist from the impact this tool won't address that at all. If the fork, either blades of steerer, has bent this tool won't help. Then there's the whole trust after having now bent the frame at least twice in the same general area (first by the impact and second+ during the realigning) and will the rider continue to monitor the area for and cracks for as long as they use the bike. I would not move this bike along to another rider either.

This bike's real value is as a parts bike for other projects, IMO. Andy

unterhausen

I was trying to remember using the frame jack. I think it was supposed to be used with the headset still in. Those were better days for such a tool, when you knew what size everything was going to be.
They haven't sold it for a long time, I think. Same with the fork alignment gauge. I have one of those, I hesitate to use it on a bent fork though.

prairiepedaler

Hi Andy, thank you for your input on the bike. It really isn't what I'm looking for but for what I am could take years to find. In the interim, this might be a useful and fun bike. Seatposts can be raised, bars and stems changed for sizing. The TT length is already what I ride and I'd ride this bike if the frame weren't wonky. It's just a shame to trash a bike like this, and I'm not even a collector. The rims are those hookless Weinmanns, which have a love/hate reputation. I have zero experience with them.

Andrew R Stewart 

"The rims are those hookless Weinmanns, which have a love/hate reputation. I have zero experience with them." pp

From one who has had way too much experience with the A124/A129 rims the only love is that they are pretty pot hole resistant. (I was once told that they were among the early heat treated rims. I never really believed this and instead feel the huge amount of material in the sidewalls was more the reason). The hates were trueing them (and Raleigh using 15g spokes for their production bikes with these rims only made it worse), under cut seam welds (can you say "thump, thump" when you want to slow down?) and mounting tires in general (with the IRC Racers really hard to do). The lack of bead hooks dictated the need for a taller side wall to better contain the early high pressure tires of that era. Andy

unterhausen

I always liked those rims -- on someone else's bike. I liked Super Champion better.

prairiepedaler

"Wrong size, bent frame, not what OP was looking for and yet..."

....annnnd tempermental rims = adios! Passed this bike along to someone else more ambitious. Thank you all for the input on it. Too bad about the bike, nice.

unterhausen

I think it's a very interesting bike. I think it makes sense for you to pass on it though

HelpSingularity 

That's a neat frame. Does anyone know anything about the location of the rear brakes?
One rarely sees them in front of the seat stays.
Is there an engineering reason for this?
Or is this a tradition/fashion kind of thing?
Thanks

unterhausen

I think on a touring bike, people want to move the brakes out of the way of the panniers. Others have done it just to be different.

Andrew R Stewart 

The in front of the stays position reduces the reach to the rim slightly. I have been told that this also can address brake squeal. The big reason as I see it is to align the caliper's cable stop/adjuster with the cable stop on the top tube. Andy

bikemig 

I thought superchampion 58s were among the best touring rims back in the day. They were easy to build with and they hold up well.

prairiepedaler

This nice old Argos tourer used the same brake setup implemented in a more sophisticated manner than the Mikado.

prairiepedaler

Another BF member didn't have the frame jack tool but just used a metal post sunk into the ground to try and achieve the same result.

Just another weekend...abusing a 1960's-ish Bianchi.

prairiepedaler

Here is the flipper finally listing it. It appears he chose the straight bar conversion option

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-road-bike/wi...ike/1667941280
https://www.kijiji.ca/o-profile/1001568472/listings/1