Hey all, I picked up this fun project but need some advice. It’s a Shinola Detroit Arrow frame. Built by Waterford as a single speed with semi-horizontal front facing dropouts. One idea I have is to weld on a derailleur hanger. My question is this, where should it be mounted in relation to the dropouts/seat stay? Depending on the bike some derailleur hangers are in line with the seat stays, some in front, some behind. What determines the position of the hanger?

Position derailleur mounting hole relative to the final axle position, not the frame. See schematic at
https://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/ima...ation--web.jpg

Done that on an old Peugeot using a Suntour hanger.

Beautiful. Thanks for the advice! Secondary question, being that there are no dropout adjustment screws, where should I position the the axle? Slammed all the way back or towards the center of the dropout?

I did this some years ago. The weld has held and the bicycle is still one of our favorites...

Derailuer Hangar Welded - "Puch"

Position the axle to balance the shifting, the brake reach, the tire clearances, fenders and other factors to have the least problems with.

At one time Campy offered a rear der "eye"/hanger tab that was intended to be brazed onto the dropouts lower edge. I think i have one in my stash. But what Aubergine did was far more common. Andy

Solid advice. Thanks. Send pic of that Campy hanger if you come across it.

Campy #80/1


Apologies for the poor focus but you get the idea...

That's an old one ('50s, early '60s maybe) with the spring hole for a Cambio Sport. They continued making the 80/1 without the extra hole for many years after this one was made, but it was always an uncommon thing to find.

It's not worth searching for one, since they're so rare nowadays, and you can get the same thing by sawing the hanger off most any good quality forged dropout, Campy or any other brand.
I'll saw you one off a real Campy 1010 dropout for $50 (part+labor+shipping) if you're desperate, but you should be able to get something functional for about 1/10th that much. Or free for the taking: saw it off a dead frame from the dumpster behind a bike shop.
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That dropout is really nice looking!

Don't worry about the lack of adjuster bolts. The holes in the dropout for those bolts are a common failure point. Position the axle in the slot wherever you find that it optimizes shifting. Tighten the quick release or axle bolts properly, and the wheel won't move in the slot. The adjuster bolts were for racers, to facilitate quick wheel changes in a race where you have mechanics and spare wheels along to quickly swap things out. If that's not you, you're not missing anything by not having those bolts.

Thanks for the advice. I do like to pedal hard and go fast but the only thing I’m racing is Father Time.