Cracks in Titanium Frame
#26
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From: Dallas, TX
I'd bet the seattube will have to be reamed after welding to get good seatpost fit even if the weld does not go all the way through. (Distortion due to the heat.) If this welder isn't a framebuilder he probably does not have the appropriate reamer. A regular steel and softer metals bike mechanic might be unwilling to sacrifice his tools on the much harder titanium. I'd call a titanium framebuilder and ask his advice. Or just get it welded and try the seatpost. That crack is close enough to the the top of the seattube that the inside is accessible and visible so careful hand filing should work. Not recommended but there are probably more than a few steel frames out there with the same treatment.
#29
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Bikes: Airborne "Carpe Diem", Motobecane "Mirage", Trek 6000, Strida 2, Dahon "Helios XL", Dahon "Mu XL", Tern "Verge S11i"
5' 9"
Thanks for the suggestion. I've been looking at Ti frame failures and think I'm not likely to get a used frame. Besides, I would like to re-use as many of the existing components as possible. I'm thinking of looking into a new steel frame with compatible dimensions. But at this point, I'm not rushing into anything. I still have an aluminum hard-tail mountain bike, ironically older than my Airborne and a veteran of a lot of miles including the Ore-to-Shore Mountain Bike Epic, that's not cracked, a nice old steel 10-speed and a couple folding bikes. These will keep me on two wheels while I think about the Airborne's fate.
Thanks for the suggestion. I've been looking at Ti frame failures and think I'm not likely to get a used frame. Besides, I would like to re-use as many of the existing components as possible. I'm thinking of looking into a new steel frame with compatible dimensions. But at this point, I'm not rushing into anything. I still have an aluminum hard-tail mountain bike, ironically older than my Airborne and a veteran of a lot of miles including the Ore-to-Shore Mountain Bike Epic, that's not cracked, a nice old steel 10-speed and a couple folding bikes. These will keep me on two wheels while I think about the Airborne's fate.
#30
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#31
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From: San Diego
Bikes: Columbine, Lynskey GR300, Paramount Track Bike, Colnago Super (4), Santana Tandems (1995 & 2007), Gary Fisher Piranha (retired), Bianchi Track Bike, a couple of Honda mountain bikes
I found Ti Cycles HERE. Looks promising, though I will have to find out the logistics of shipping the frame anywhere. I don't yet know if my local guy knows about bike frames, but it's good to have a lead on someone who does. Thanks!
#32
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From: Seattle
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#33
Maybe it's superstition but framebuilders don't use Ti tools on Steel or vice versa. Wear is part of it. I think the alloys used in bike making are harder than steels or at least wear tools more. I think there is also contamination of materials. You don't want steel embedded in Ti. I'm saying this based on what I have seen others with more experience than I, do; not based on study or training. Having machined brass and cast iron, I can say they wear drill bits and other tools pretty fast for something that is pretty soft.
The cutter resharpener we used knew how to shape the cutting teeth for Ti.
There is no contamination issue that I know of. Any place that's going to get welded on is well cleaned before welding. I'd worry more about the cutting oil that any transfer of steel onto the Ti. Anyway some strong Ti alloys have a little Fe in them (on purpose), it's not a dangerous contaminant.
#34
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#35
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From: Seattle
Well, it's a sample size of one but Bill was worried Max would get mad at him for using his Ti cutters on my steel frame. Maybe he was being dramatic.
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#36
Oh that I can believe. By "Ti cutters" he means cutters made of steel that are for use on Ti frames. With that sharper rake on the cutting edges, less support for the cutting point, faster wear when used on steel. So definitely keep your "Ti cutters" sharp and away from steel.












