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-   -   Does this frame geometry make sense? (https://www.bikeforums.net/framebuilders/528809-does-frame-geometry-make-sense.html)

antonyfhilliard 04-07-09 09:40 PM

Does this frame geometry make sense?
 
2 Attachment(s)
I played around a little in BikeCAD this afternoon, after getting my frame fitting results back. I'm trying to shoehorn my 6'5", 94cm inseam body around a fast commuter frame to fit 700x38c tires+fenders (and an EBB).

Does this geometry look reasonable? It's 72.5 head angle, 63.5 C-C seat, 63 C-C top. Using a Dimension cross fork (400mm A2C, 45mm rake) the trail ends up being about 62.5mm, the Jones -2.4, and the front projection .067.

This is my first frame design, so I really don't know what I'm doing. Any advice would be welcome! :p

JohnDThompson 04-08-09 09:19 AM

Looks ok to me!

Braze 'er up and tell us how it rides!

cbchess 04-08-09 09:52 AM

Front looks to be a bit steep in the head angle and might be on the twitchy side. That is just my personal preference, I like a slacker head angle.

Live Wire 04-08-09 10:42 AM

Looks good, should work fine. Although I think you'd be better balanced if the chainstays were a bit longer.

arshak 04-08-09 09:36 PM

I would go with 71.5 or 71.7 degree head tube angle as this is going to be a BIG frame and with correspondingly longer chain stays in the back, my 2 cents worth:)

antonyfhilliard 04-09-09 01:02 PM

Thanks all, I appreciate the advice. I'll add 10mm to the chainstays, since I'll be riding it semi-upright most of the time and will probably have lots of weight on my butt.

What I really want to get is the 'carvy' feel in making tight turns in small city streets at 20km/h. Sort of like a criterium, but with less pedaling in the turns. That's why I put in the 72.5 head angle. Fingers crossed!

Live Wire 04-09-09 01:15 PM


Originally Posted by antonyfhilliard (Post 8699428)
Thanks all, I appreciate the advice. I'll add 10mm to the chainstays, since I'll be riding it semi-upright most of the time and will probably have lots of weight on my butt.

What I really want to get is the 'carvy' feel in making tight turns in small city streets at 20km/h. Sort of like a criterium, but with less pedaling in the turns. That's why I put in the 72.5 head angle. Fingers crossed!

That's what I prefer too- stick w/the steeper HA, you'll be glad you did.

Thylacine 04-14-09 05:29 AM

My Mods in RED
 
I'm assuming this is a steel frame....


Frame Angles
*Headangle = 72.5∞
*Seatangle = 72.5∞ (71.5 if using a straight post)

Major Lengths
Wheelbase = 1088.5549 mm
*Seat tube length (c-t) = 690.0 mm
Seat tube length (c-c) = 638.6374 mm
Top tube length (effective) = 632.68585 mm (Might be a tad long for a commuter)
Top tube length (c-c) = 630.00476 mm
*Head tube length = 200.0 mm (215)
*Bottom bracket height = 271.5 mm
Bottom bracket drop = 77.5 mm (70)
*Chainstay length = 440.0 mm
*Front Center = 660.0 mm

Fork and Headset Specs
*Fork offset = 45.0 mm (48-50mm would be better with 72/72.5 HTA)
*Fork length = 400.0 mm (might be a tad short)
This is a rigid fork
*Lower stack height = 11.0 mm

Stability Info
Trail = 62.855465 mm
Jones stability criterion = -2.4148805
Relative front projection = 0.06759858

Tube Diameters
*Seat tube diameter = 34.9 mm (31.8)
*Top tube diameter = 31.8 mm
*Head tube diameter = 38.1 mm (36)
*Down tube diameter = 50.8 mm (38.1)

Seatstay Info
*Seatstay diameter = 22.2 mm (16mm if using caliper brakes)
Direct distance from rear axle to center of seatstay at seat tube junction = 566.4608 mm
Sideways angle of seatstay = 6.1623745∞
Seatstays are straight
*Distance from top of seat tube to center of seatstay = 40.0 mm
*Location of center of seatstay at seat tube junction (0∞ = rear of seat tube, 90∞ = side of seat tube) = 45.0

Bottom Bracket Info
*Bottom bracket length = 68.0 mm
*Bottom bracket diameter = 57.2 mm (38.1)
Chainstay angle relative to horizontal = 10.356807
Seatstay angle relative to horizontal = 67.59641

Welding Clearance Info
*Head tube extension above top edge of top tube = 8.0 mm (10mm)
*Head tube extension below bottom edge of down tube = 10.0 mm (15mm)
Gap between bottom of top tube and top of down tube at head tube junction = 90.58825 mm
*Seat tube extension above top edge of top tube = 40.0 mm (20)
Extension of outer face of BB from side edge of chainstay = 3.7928886 mm
Gap between inside edges of chainstays at BB junction = 15.585777 mm


My 2c :D

antonyfhilliard 04-24-09 08:33 PM

Thanks Thylacine. I've shortened the seat tube extension above the top tube to 30mm. The 77.5 BB drop and 57mm shell is because I'm using an eccentric - I figure I'll lose about 7-8mm from rotating the eccentric upwards to tighten the chain.

As for more fork rake... well, it's steel, I'll just have to test-ride it and bend it if necessary. :innocent:

antonyfhilliard 06-02-09 09:36 AM

Followup: The frame rides great, it's just as carvy as I hoped for. I did get a bit of pedal strike when riding home drunk, and the top tube is definitely 1cm too long, but them's the breaks. Thank you for your advice.

cbchess 06-08-09 08:57 AM

How about some pictures!?!

antonyfhilliard 06-09-09 02:27 PM

3 Attachment(s)
As you wish! (it's a bit ugly, I built it up with cheap used parts from the local bike co-ops)

cbchess 06-15-09 06:51 AM

nice!
where did you order such a custom frame? how much?

antonyfhilliard 04-23-12 02:46 PM

Three years later on my XACD chinese Ti frame:

* I specced the BB too low, top tube too long (as I mentioned before)
* XACD specced the tire clearance symmetrical on top and sides. This resulted in unneccessarily bent chainstays (didn't need 1cm side clearance)
* Cable guides not ideally placed - rear brake cable guide too close to caliper, Rohloff chainstay guide doesn't secure cable around bends (could be solved be straightening chainstay)
* Top tube too high - straight top tubes are too 1970s. Should have sloped the top tube 10-15 degrees, and gotten a taller seatpost.
* Fork was too short. I replaced it with a 410mm carbon fork which works great.

Other than that, it's been good!


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