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Does this frame geometry make sense?
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I played around a little in BikeCAD this afternoon, after getting my frame fitting results back. I'm trying to shoehorn my 6'5", 94cm inseam body around a fast commuter frame to fit 700x38c tires+fenders (and an EBB).
Does this geometry look reasonable? It's 72.5 head angle, 63.5 C-C seat, 63 C-C top. Using a Dimension cross fork (400mm A2C, 45mm rake) the trail ends up being about 62.5mm, the Jones -2.4, and the front projection .067. This is my first frame design, so I really don't know what I'm doing. Any advice would be welcome! :p |
Looks ok to me!
Braze 'er up and tell us how it rides! |
Front looks to be a bit steep in the head angle and might be on the twitchy side. That is just my personal preference, I like a slacker head angle.
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Looks good, should work fine. Although I think you'd be better balanced if the chainstays were a bit longer.
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I would go with 71.5 or 71.7 degree head tube angle as this is going to be a BIG frame and with correspondingly longer chain stays in the back, my 2 cents worth:)
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Thanks all, I appreciate the advice. I'll add 10mm to the chainstays, since I'll be riding it semi-upright most of the time and will probably have lots of weight on my butt.
What I really want to get is the 'carvy' feel in making tight turns in small city streets at 20km/h. Sort of like a criterium, but with less pedaling in the turns. That's why I put in the 72.5 head angle. Fingers crossed! |
Originally Posted by antonyfhilliard
(Post 8699428)
Thanks all, I appreciate the advice. I'll add 10mm to the chainstays, since I'll be riding it semi-upright most of the time and will probably have lots of weight on my butt.
What I really want to get is the 'carvy' feel in making tight turns in small city streets at 20km/h. Sort of like a criterium, but with less pedaling in the turns. That's why I put in the 72.5 head angle. Fingers crossed! |
My Mods in RED
I'm assuming this is a steel frame....
Frame Angles *Headangle = 72.5∞ *Seatangle = 72.5∞ (71.5 if using a straight post) Major Lengths Wheelbase = 1088.5549 mm *Seat tube length (c-t) = 690.0 mm Seat tube length (c-c) = 638.6374 mm Top tube length (effective) = 632.68585 mm (Might be a tad long for a commuter) Top tube length (c-c) = 630.00476 mm *Head tube length = 200.0 mm (215) *Bottom bracket height = 271.5 mm Bottom bracket drop = 77.5 mm (70) *Chainstay length = 440.0 mm *Front Center = 660.0 mm Fork and Headset Specs *Fork offset = 45.0 mm (48-50mm would be better with 72/72.5 HTA) *Fork length = 400.0 mm (might be a tad short) This is a rigid fork *Lower stack height = 11.0 mm Stability Info Trail = 62.855465 mm Jones stability criterion = -2.4148805 Relative front projection = 0.06759858 Tube Diameters *Seat tube diameter = 34.9 mm (31.8) *Top tube diameter = 31.8 mm *Head tube diameter = 38.1 mm (36) *Down tube diameter = 50.8 mm (38.1) Seatstay Info *Seatstay diameter = 22.2 mm (16mm if using caliper brakes) Direct distance from rear axle to center of seatstay at seat tube junction = 566.4608 mm Sideways angle of seatstay = 6.1623745∞ Seatstays are straight *Distance from top of seat tube to center of seatstay = 40.0 mm *Location of center of seatstay at seat tube junction (0∞ = rear of seat tube, 90∞ = side of seat tube) = 45.0 Bottom Bracket Info *Bottom bracket length = 68.0 mm *Bottom bracket diameter = 57.2 mm (38.1) Chainstay angle relative to horizontal = 10.356807 Seatstay angle relative to horizontal = 67.59641 Welding Clearance Info *Head tube extension above top edge of top tube = 8.0 mm (10mm) *Head tube extension below bottom edge of down tube = 10.0 mm (15mm) Gap between bottom of top tube and top of down tube at head tube junction = 90.58825 mm *Seat tube extension above top edge of top tube = 40.0 mm (20) Extension of outer face of BB from side edge of chainstay = 3.7928886 mm Gap between inside edges of chainstays at BB junction = 15.585777 mm My 2c :D |
Thanks Thylacine. I've shortened the seat tube extension above the top tube to 30mm. The 77.5 BB drop and 57mm shell is because I'm using an eccentric - I figure I'll lose about 7-8mm from rotating the eccentric upwards to tighten the chain.
As for more fork rake... well, it's steel, I'll just have to test-ride it and bend it if necessary. :innocent: |
Followup: The frame rides great, it's just as carvy as I hoped for. I did get a bit of pedal strike when riding home drunk, and the top tube is definitely 1cm too long, but them's the breaks. Thank you for your advice.
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How about some pictures!?!
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3 Attachment(s)
As you wish! (it's a bit ugly, I built it up with cheap used parts from the local bike co-ops)
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nice!
where did you order such a custom frame? how much? |
Three years later on my XACD chinese Ti frame:
* I specced the BB too low, top tube too long (as I mentioned before) * XACD specced the tire clearance symmetrical on top and sides. This resulted in unneccessarily bent chainstays (didn't need 1cm side clearance) * Cable guides not ideally placed - rear brake cable guide too close to caliper, Rohloff chainstay guide doesn't secure cable around bends (could be solved be straightening chainstay) * Top tube too high - straight top tubes are too 1970s. Should have sloped the top tube 10-15 degrees, and gotten a taller seatpost. * Fork was too short. I replaced it with a 410mm carbon fork which works great. Other than that, it's been good! |
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