Aerobars Question
#1
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Bikes: 2020 Specialized Roubaix Comp SC - 2016 Specialized Roubaix SL4 - 2015 Giant Roam 2 Disc
Aerobars Question
Which of these two are best, and why?
https://www.amazon.com/Profile-Design...uminum+Aerobar
https://www.amazon.com/Profile-Design...uminum+Aerobar
https://www.amazon.com/Profile-Design...uminum+Aerobar
https://www.amazon.com/Profile-Design...uminum+Aerobar
#2
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From: Wisconsin
Bikes: 2012 Salsa Casseroll, 2009 Kona Blast
I know what you are trying to do and would advise that you proceed with caution. Aero bars have their place (mostly with triathletes and ultra endurance cyclists), but are not a solution to hand pain or numbness even on short rides.
#4
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From: SW Fl.
Bikes: 1999 DAHON Mariner, Day6 Semi Recumbent "FIREBALL", 1981 Custom Touring Paramount, 1983 Road Paramount, 2013 Giant Propel Advanced SL3, 2018 Specialized Red Roubaix Expert mech., 2002 Magna 7sp hybrid, 1976 Bassett Racing 45sp Cruiser
I have used both models and currently have the T4+ on my bike. Pop up were nice since they allow for top bar grab when climbing but mine rattled when riding over bumps. Fixed allowed grabbing pads for more upright riding and easier arm plant when transitioning to the aero bars from hoods, drops or no hands.....
I find my aero bars useful on short or long rides and very comfortable when dropping on to them. They have helped with hand discomfort.

I find my aero bars useful on short or long rides and very comfortable when dropping on to them. They have helped with hand discomfort.
#5
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Bikes: Masi, Giant TCR, Eisentraut (retired), Jamis Aurora Elite, Zullo, Cannondale, 84 & 93 Stumpjumpers, Waterford, Tern D8, Bianchi, Gunner Roadie, Serotta, Serotta Duette, was gifted a Diamond Back
I prefer the airstrykes. I use them for riding into headwinds but it is harder to control the bike with the aerobars and when positioned so far forward, I am riding on the nose of the seat and it puts a lot of pressure on the jewels and causes numbness in places other than the hands. So I use them sparingly. They also take a lot of area from the handle bars that could be used for other gear.
#6
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From: Nashville, TN.
Bikes: 2020 Specialized Roubaix Comp SC - 2016 Specialized Roubaix SL4 - 2015 Giant Roam 2 Disc
I know aerobars aren't ideal for a hybrid bike like my Roam 2, but anything where I can rest them while still peddling away can't be bad, right?
#7
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#8
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From: Tampa Fl
Bikes: Cannondale Six13 Pro, Cannondale Synapse, Felt IA10, BMC TimeMachine
Without aerobars I'm lucky if I can ride 50 miles without pain/numbness. With them, 24hrs straight without any hand issues at all.
#9
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From: SW Fl.
Bikes: 1999 DAHON Mariner, Day6 Semi Recumbent "FIREBALL", 1981 Custom Touring Paramount, 1983 Road Paramount, 2013 Giant Propel Advanced SL3, 2018 Specialized Red Roubaix Expert mech., 2002 Magna 7sp hybrid, 1976 Bassett Racing 45sp Cruiser
I'm ok with my hands until about the 20 mile mark, gets numb but I usually overcome it by resting, riding with no hands, changing positions, etc... But then it tends to really start bothering me about mile 15 or 20 of a 40 or 50 mile ride.
I know aerobars aren't ideal for a hybrid bike like my Roam 2, but anything where I can rest them while still peddling away can't be bad, right?
I know aerobars aren't ideal for a hybrid bike like my Roam 2, but anything where I can rest them while still peddling away can't be bad, right?
#10
I'm ok with my hands until about the 20 mile mark, gets numb but I usually overcome it by resting, riding with no hands, changing positions, etc... But then it tends to really start bothering me about mile 15 or 20 of a 40 or 50 mile ride.
I know aerobars aren't ideal for a hybrid bike like my Roam 2, but anything where I can rest them while still peddling away can't be bad, right?
I know aerobars aren't ideal for a hybrid bike like my Roam 2, but anything where I can rest them while still peddling away can't be bad, right?
I've come to one conclusion. If your hands are numb, your saddle position and/or tilt is wrong.
Wait, what?? He didn't mention handlebars at all....
Nope, your hand should not support your upper body weight or resist you sliding forward on the saddle. Most people don't even realize they are sliding forward on the saddle, but subconsciously adjust and push themselves back with their hands constantly while riding. This put a lot of pressure on the hands and in exactly the wrong place.
You should be able to sit on the saddle squarely without sliding forward. You should be able to bend forward and rest your hands on the handlebars WITHOUT supporting your upper body weight. That means on the hoods and tops of the bars and with a minimal reasonable amount of weight supported in the drops. Same with flat bars. You're supposed to use your hand to steer, not do the equivalent of 20 miles of push ups on a 1" diameter aluminum pipe.
Once you have that right, your hands will stop getting numb.
#11
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From: Nashville, TN.
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I'm not a professional fitter, but I have been cycling since about 1975 and have helped a lot of people with fit and comfort on their bikes.
I've come to one conclusion. If your hands are numb, your saddle position and/or tilt is wrong.
Wait, what?? He didn't mention handlebars at all....
Nope, your hand should not support your upper body weight or resist you sliding forward on the saddle. Most people don't even realize they are sliding forward on the saddle, but subconsciously adjust and push themselves back with their hands constantly while riding. This put a lot of pressure on the hands and in exactly the wrong place.
You should be able to sit on the saddle squarely without sliding forward. You should be able to bend forward and rest your hands on the handlebars WITHOUT supporting your upper body weight. That means on the hoods and tops of the bars and with a minimal reasonable amount of weight supported in the drops. Same with flat bars. You're supposed to use your hand to steer, not do the equivalent of 20 miles of push ups on a 1" diameter aluminum pipe.
Once you have that right, your hands will stop getting numb.
I've come to one conclusion. If your hands are numb, your saddle position and/or tilt is wrong.
Wait, what?? He didn't mention handlebars at all....
Nope, your hand should not support your upper body weight or resist you sliding forward on the saddle. Most people don't even realize they are sliding forward on the saddle, but subconsciously adjust and push themselves back with their hands constantly while riding. This put a lot of pressure on the hands and in exactly the wrong place.
You should be able to sit on the saddle squarely without sliding forward. You should be able to bend forward and rest your hands on the handlebars WITHOUT supporting your upper body weight. That means on the hoods and tops of the bars and with a minimal reasonable amount of weight supported in the drops. Same with flat bars. You're supposed to use your hand to steer, not do the equivalent of 20 miles of push ups on a 1" diameter aluminum pipe.
Once you have that right, your hands will stop getting numb.
I appreciate your help, and anyone else's for that matter in trying to help me figure this out. Thanks.
#12
I'm not a professional fitter, but I have been cycling since about 1975 and have helped a lot of people with fit and comfort on their bikes.
I've come to one conclusion. If your hands are numb, your saddle position and/or tilt is wrong.
Wait, what?? He didn't mention handlebars at all....
Nope, your hand should not support your upper body weight or resist you sliding forward on the saddle. Most people don't even realize they are sliding forward on the saddle, but subconsciously adjust and push themselves back with their hands constantly while riding. This put a lot of pressure on the hands and in exactly the wrong place.
You should be able to sit on the saddle squarely without sliding forward. You should be able to bend forward and rest your hands on the handlebars WITHOUT supporting your upper body weight. That means on the hoods and tops of the bars and with a minimal reasonable amount of weight supported in the drops. Same with flat bars. You're supposed to use your hand to steer, not do the equivalent of 20 miles of push ups on a 1" diameter aluminum pipe.
Once you have that right, your hands will stop getting numb.
I've come to one conclusion. If your hands are numb, your saddle position and/or tilt is wrong.
Wait, what?? He didn't mention handlebars at all....
Nope, your hand should not support your upper body weight or resist you sliding forward on the saddle. Most people don't even realize they are sliding forward on the saddle, but subconsciously adjust and push themselves back with their hands constantly while riding. This put a lot of pressure on the hands and in exactly the wrong place.
You should be able to sit on the saddle squarely without sliding forward. You should be able to bend forward and rest your hands on the handlebars WITHOUT supporting your upper body weight. That means on the hoods and tops of the bars and with a minimal reasonable amount of weight supported in the drops. Same with flat bars. You're supposed to use your hand to steer, not do the equivalent of 20 miles of push ups on a 1" diameter aluminum pipe.
Once you have that right, your hands will stop getting numb.
#13
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Wisconsin
Bikes: 2012 Salsa Casseroll, 2009 Kona Blast
I keep hearing that, and I can see where saddle position can definitely hurt the situation, but it's hard for me to understand how someone can be leaned over that far WITHOUT there being pressure on the hands. Gravity takes over. The Roam isn't an upright position bike. I have an XL frame (being 6'4") and the saddle height is proper, according to everything I've read, and how it feels. Leg almost 100% extended on the down-pedal. When it came from the LBS, I had to get the saddle height right, and also the tilt. They had it pretty much level, and my hands went numb FAST. I tried to ride without hands, and it felt like I was sliding down a park slide. I've always had my saddles tilted slightly up in the front, and I did the same here and it helped a lot. Any more tilt upwards though and it would look ridiculous. I've played with the fore and aft, one extreme to the other, but the middle position seems to suit me best.
I appreciate your help, and anyone else's for that matter in trying to help me figure this out. Thanks.
I appreciate your help, and anyone else's for that matter in trying to help me figure this out. Thanks.
Whatever the problem is, the solution isn't to put even more of your weight forward by using aero bars.
#14
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From: Wisconsin
Bikes: 2012 Salsa Casseroll, 2009 Kona Blast
#15
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From: Nashville, TN.
Bikes: 2020 Specialized Roubaix Comp SC - 2016 Specialized Roubaix SL4 - 2015 Giant Roam 2 Disc
That should tell you something is going on with the fit/saddle. It could be that you lack flexibility in your back, pelvis, hips and core, and any lean forward causes you to tilt your entire pelvis forward, rather than bending at the back while keeping the butt flat on the saddle. You need to do more research to figure this out.
Whatever the problem is, the solution isn't to put even more of your weight forward by using aero bars.
Whatever the problem is, the solution isn't to put even more of your weight forward by using aero bars.
As I said, the Roam isn't an upright bike, having practically a flat bar. And I don't want to be upright. If I had, I would have bought a Cypress. I got the Roam to be more angled over, out of the wind. But unfortunately, being angled over puts more weight on the hands. Being more upright with a taller bar takes the weight off.
As far as saddle position goes, the only thing that makes sense to me, as far as too much weight on my hands, is maybe I have the saddle too high. But according to how my leg seems to be perfectly extended on the down pedal ...I can't see saddle height as being the issue.
#16
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
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you comfortable leaning over that low? Its mostly you hunched over that reduces aero drag .
I bought one of Zzippers fairings Title for the aero benefits, first,
then set bars up higher behind the bubble..
Limited to Either/ Or? get the one with the flip up arm rests so you still have use of the tops of your bars
I bought one of Zzippers fairings Title for the aero benefits, first,
then set bars up higher behind the bubble..
Limited to Either/ Or? get the one with the flip up arm rests so you still have use of the tops of your bars
Last edited by fietsbob; 09-10-15 at 09:09 AM.
#17
Well, that was before I tilted the saddle upwards in the front. Now, I don't have that problem of feeling like I'm sliding forward.
As I said, the Roam isn't an upright bike, having practically a flat bar. And I don't want to be upright. If I had, I would have bought a Cypress. I got the Roam to be more angled over, out of the wind. But unfortunately, being angled over puts more weight on the hands. Being more upright with a taller bar takes the weight off.
As far as saddle position goes, the only thing that makes sense to me, as far as too much weight on my hands, is maybe I have the saddle too high. But according to how my leg seems to be perfectly extended on the down pedal ...I can't see saddle height as being the issue.
As I said, the Roam isn't an upright bike, having practically a flat bar. And I don't want to be upright. If I had, I would have bought a Cypress. I got the Roam to be more angled over, out of the wind. But unfortunately, being angled over puts more weight on the hands. Being more upright with a taller bar takes the weight off.
As far as saddle position goes, the only thing that makes sense to me, as far as too much weight on my hands, is maybe I have the saddle too high. But according to how my leg seems to be perfectly extended on the down pedal ...I can't see saddle height as being the issue.
Did you have to put your hands on anything to do that?
It's maybe a bit simplistic, but your bicycle is no different.
#18
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From: Washington DC Metro Area
Bikes: Breezer Uptown 8, Jamis Renegade Expert
On a road bike, the majority of your bodyweight will actually be in the back, where your butt is, not the front.
#19
Sit in a typical dining room chair with your feet on the ground in front of you. Lean forward 45 degrees. Lean forward 60 degrees. Lean forward 90 degrees with your chest against your thighs. Stick your arms out in from of you. Go back to 45 degrees. Go back to upright. Your arms should be pointing straight up now.
Did you have to put your hands on anything to do that?
It's maybe a bit simplistic, but your bicycle is no different.
Did you have to put your hands on anything to do that?
It's maybe a bit simplistic, but your bicycle is no different.
I sometimes rest with my forearms on the ramps while holding the hoods (does anyone else do that, or is it just weird?). I really wish for aerobars those times, and feel like that's enough reason in itself to install some.
#20
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From: Tampa Fl
Bikes: Cannondale Six13 Pro, Cannondale Synapse, Felt IA10, BMC TimeMachine
Some people can find no relief, even after one or more professional fittings.
For those people aerobars can be a godsend. Even on short rides.
Last edited by c.miller64; 09-10-15 at 05:18 PM. Reason: my spellling is on thirf grade level....
#21
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From: Vancouver, BC
Sit in a typical dining room chair with your feet on the ground in front of you. Lean forward 45 degrees. Lean forward 60 degrees. Lean forward 90 degrees with your chest against your thighs. Stick your arms out in from of you. Go back to 45 degrees. Go back to upright. Your arms should be pointing straight up now.
Did you have to put your hands on anything to do that?
It's maybe a bit simplistic, but your bicycle is no different.
Did you have to put your hands on anything to do that?
It's maybe a bit simplistic, but your bicycle is no different.
I think the main reason you see a lot of older cyclists with aero bars is their muscle strength has declined and they can't press with as much force on the pedals. This naturally puts more pressure on the hands.
#22
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Have you tried bar end extensions? These clamp onto the ends of handlebars, extend forward and bend back towards the center. They provide additional hand positions which may help with the hand pain.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...E11ZV5GA5N2K9X
Doesn't matter how well your bike is fitted some people just can't be stuck in the same position for 2+ hours without feeling some discomfort.
Aero bars can take the weight off your hands but they do increase the stress on your back and put a lot of weight onto your forearms. Many also put the hands into an awkward position that requires you to rotate the wrist forward. If you're not young and/or flexible they can be downright uncomfortable.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...E11ZV5GA5N2K9X
Doesn't matter how well your bike is fitted some people just can't be stuck in the same position for 2+ hours without feeling some discomfort.
Aero bars can take the weight off your hands but they do increase the stress on your back and put a lot of weight onto your forearms. Many also put the hands into an awkward position that requires you to rotate the wrist forward. If you're not young and/or flexible they can be downright uncomfortable.
#23
Aero bars on almost all my bikes, including flat bar, mountain, road, and track bikes. Nerve damage near my left elbow makes them necessary, but I'd probably use them anyway. I've never seen any disadvantage to their use except the small amount of added weight.
Bar ends are of minimal use for ameliorating hand discomfort, in my experience.
I used airstrykes on one bike in the past; zip-tied the pads down to stop the rattling after the first few rides.
Bar ends are of minimal use for ameliorating hand discomfort, in my experience.
I used airstrykes on one bike in the past; zip-tied the pads down to stop the rattling after the first few rides.
Last edited by Trakhak; 09-10-15 at 07:20 AM.
#24
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From: Nashville, TN.
Bikes: 2020 Specialized Roubaix Comp SC - 2016 Specialized Roubaix SL4 - 2015 Giant Roam 2 Disc
Aero bars on almost all my bikes, including flat bar, mountain, road, and track bikes. Nerve damage near my left elbow makes them necessary, but I'd probably use them anyway. I've never seen any disadvantage to their use except the small amount of added weight.
Bar ends are of minimal use for ameliorating hand discomfort, in my experience.
I used airstrykes on one bike in the past; zip-tied the pads down to stop the rattling after the first few rides.
Bar ends are of minimal use for ameliorating hand discomfort, in my experience.
I used airstrykes on one bike in the past; zip-tied the pads down to stop the rattling after the first few rides.
I can see both sides, so it's rather difficult knowing which way to lean on this.
#25
It's really strange the varying degree of opinions on this. Seems to me, they could only help as well, but I can only speculate not ever having used them. I talked to my guy (the owner) at the LBS where I bought my bike, and he highly advised against them. Saying that I'm not really curing my problem, only masking it. He was also against them from a safety standpoint, saying how a rider doesn't really have proper control of the bike, and not enough access to the brakes while using them.
I can see both sides, so it's rather difficult knowing which way to lean on this.
I can see both sides, so it's rather difficult knowing which way to lean on this.
Keep in mind that you don't have to use the aero bars every minute that you're riding. I spend maybe 15% of my time on the bike using the aero bars, but I'm definitely glad I have them during those times.








