Is there a name for this kind of handlebar?
 

I've been looking at various handlebars to modify my Jamis Coda Sport. At first I thought I might want a more upright position, but on reflection I'm probably upright enough as it is. But the typical flat-bar wrist position (which always reminds me of a gorilla walking on is knuckles, with the forearms and shoulders tilted forward) feels a little unnatural, and as a writer I want to make sure I'm doing putting any undue stress on my wrists....carpal tunnel, you know. Anyway, I would like to see if I can find a flat-style bar that gives me a more natural wrist angle. So is there a flat bar that offers just a slight sweep-back at the ends without any rise, and if so, what's the name for it?

Viewed from above, something like:

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The Jamis's bar does this VERY slightly, but I'd like a little more.

Perhaps you just need a "real" bike. :D

NC-17 Trekking Handlebar | Chain Reaction Cycles

NC-17 Trekking 4.5 Super Riser Bar | Chain Reaction Cycles

Heh. You'll notice I'm not asking those guys at the LBS this question.... :D

I like the flatter NC-17 bar. Interesting to see the comment about how it's pretty decent for climbing.

I also just found this Surly Open Bar: http://store.biketouringnews.com/surly-open-bar/?

FSA Metropolis bars do this

https://images.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=...500-70.jpg&f=1

So does the Soma Noah's Arc:

https://images.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=...6b040e.jpg&f=1

and the Surly Open Bars:

https://images.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=...31d3_z.jpg&f=1

and the On One Mary Bars:

https://images.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=...e7e1_z.jpg&f=1

Excellent pics, thanks! These are all good options to consider.

I'm also now considering the Velo Orange Postino: VO Postino Handlebar - Handlebars - Components

I've seen folks with swept bars, where they actually turn them upside down so they can maintain a more aero posture. It's too low for me, but it might be worth considering.

I had a crush on the Jamis Coda Sport back in 2010 good looking machine. I then set up my commuter at the time with the majority of the part from the Jamis coda specs including the flat handlebars I discovered I didn't enjoy having my arms on that position for long periods of time. My crush now is with the bikes from Rivendell and I am contemplating the nitto albatros bar for my commuter. Check them out
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=482780http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=482781

Lugged Steel Bicycles, Wool Clothing, Leather Saddles & Canvas Bike Bags from Rivendell Bicycle Works

And there there's a mustache bar, which has a slight drop.

http://media.nashbar.com/images/nash...-NCL-FRONT.JPG

And the Velo ORange Postino bar, with no drop

http://tfe.me/image/480_345/HB7705.jpg

It is best to find a bar that has 31.8 diameter. The Postino is 25.4 so you need the shim to bring your stem down to size to fit the bar. It can be done but I would buy something that you need a shim for. My personal favorite bar of all time is the FSA Metropolis. I have three pair in my parts for future projects.

The Postino is 25.4 because Velo Orange uses quill stems, but you can still find threadless stems in 25.4 without needing a shim. There is an XLC 25.4 stem on Amazon for less than $12:

Amazon.com : XLC Comp Stem, 1-1/8", 110mm x 10, 25.4, Black : Bike Stems And Parts : Sports & Outdoors

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...6L._SX522_.jpg

One thing I just realized is that my stem is already adjusted up pretty high (about even with the seat), so I COULD get a handlebar with a little bit of a rise and lower the stem by that amount. Yes?

If your stem is angled up, flip it around and that will lower your bar height. That would be the first thing I would do. If that isn't low enough, move a spacer above the stem and see how you like it. All it takes is an allen key and a little know how on how to tighten your headset after you move things around.

Yes he could but why would you replace both parts? He has a perfectly good stem and all he needs is a bar. Lets not make this more difficult then it has to be. Just because you can doesn't mean you should.

How usable are the inner portions of the Metropolis bar (aero, alternate hand position etc)?

I might never need it for those purposes, but what the heck.

Buy & Try

That is a really good question. You may never use it but the option is always there if you want to. If it is really windy on my rides along the lake, I will grab the flat portion and tuck down. I certainly didn't buy the bar because of that, I bought it because of the angle my wrists would be at when holding on. The flat portion are just an added bonus. I also add Ergon grips to make the bar even more comfortable.

H-BAR
http://store.velo-orange.com/index.p...ars-cromo.html

Those Metropolis bars and similar do change your wrist position but your back doesn't move much, because they sweep forward a bit first and aren't any wider. The sweep is clearly less than 45 because the grips make more than a right angle with each other. I like the idea of them since wrist angle is my usual problem when in commuter mode, but the straighter bars seem more appropriate once you're on the trail.

Classic cruiser handlebars come in several widths (24 26 28) and sweep back more than 45 deg and do not sweep forward first, so they set your hands a good bit wider and sit you up. They are usually chromed or black painted steel, not aluminum and are pretty heavy.

For some reason catalog or website sales photos often don't show swept bars to their best effect, they tend to line it up straight or something and lose the sweep or the rise. Do a Google image search of whatever you're considering to see it in its natural environment.

http://www.amazon.com/Fyxation-Alter.../dp/B009R05HFW

Just make sure whatever you pick matches the clamp diameter of your stem.

I've done several handle bar conversions. It's hard to sort out some of the dimensional information provided on web pages for handle bar sales. Most manufacturers refer to it as rise, width, & sweep. Look for terms like upright, cruiser, North Road and, you will probably find something you like. It's also very important to get the right stem too.

Here's a nice comfy bar I've used on a couple of bikes: (picture is same size in black)

Dimension 25.4 70mm Riser Bar 50deg sweep Silver

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=483295

Looks like my clamp diameter is 25.4 mm. So without swapping out the stem, here are some of the options my LBS currently has that interest me:

Origin8 Classique Tour (black, aluminum) - about $18
Origin8 Transit (black) - about $30
Wald 8095 (North Road style, chrome steel) - about $15
Nitto All-Rounder (silver, aluminum) - not sure, but probably too much :p

Black bars would go better but the Coda Sport, but of course I could always apply black tape to any bar I buy. I've decided that a little rise is OK as long as I can adjust the stem or tilt the grips to compensate.

The Origin8 bars are the closest to what you were asking for. The Walds, I think the rise is too much and you will be trying to compensate with the stem and spacers. The Nitto doesn't have the angle you originally asked for and Universal sells it for $40. I use a Nitto bar that is very similar the Albatross and this is whole different game than the other bars you listed.

If you are just experimenting buy the most inexpensive Origin8 bar at $18. It is a cheap experiment and if you feel you need better in the future, you can weigh your options then. Good luck and I hope you enjoy whatever you choose.

This is a pair of Wald chrome steel handlebars on a 72 Fuji:
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=483699

They're a little heavier & narrower than alloy handlebars.

Speaking of chrome steel, i see that the Wald 8095 is made of chrome, while the silver version of the Origin8 Classique Tour is made of stainless steel. Are there any significant differences between these two materials, at least for this application?