broccolimorning

I have a vintage Miyata 1000 LT ('87), lusted after it for years and finally bought one 5 years ago. It had not been well cared for (I think many parts had been switched out), and I've upgraded most of the parts at some point, including the wheels which I replaced with custom 700c wheels (frame is for 27").

The bike has some problems. Because of the frame/wheel size mismatch, I'm having trouble finding decent canti brakes that fit, and I seem to have brake problems (like very low power) with every brake I've tried. Also, I and professional mechanics have never been able to adjust the headset properly so that it doesn't instantly come loose. I even replaced the headset once. I looked this up at one point in the old specs and it looks like it may be impossible to get a properly fitting headset.

I did buy this for touring and as my primary commute/recreation/transportation bike. My lifestyle has changed and from now on I probably don't need a heavy-duty touring bike. I need a bike that can fit full fenders, would like dedicated braze-ons for racks, preference for steel frame, need wide range of gearing.

Are there solutions to this bike's problems? If not, what modern bike should I replace it with? I was looking at something like the Surly Cross Check.

One other detail- this bike has no collector value because a couple years ago I had it powder coated bright orange and now no one knows my little secret about having a 1000 :-) Call me crazy, but I was trying to decrease theft risk and I really prefer bright colors to dark gray.

dedhed

The Geometry of Cantilever Brakes

your headset may be the locknut bottoming before it's tight and needs a washer. Often happens when a brake hanger or reflector mount was removed and a washer not added.

Are your brake levers correct for canti's?

FBinNY 

I can't see form here (via the internet) why you should have issues getting cantis that work. The 4mm difference in rim position shouldn't take the shoes beyond the low end of the slot, but even if it does, there are workarounds.

I agree with dedhed that the most likely cause of a headset that won't stay tight is a long fork, solvable with a 1/16" spacer. Here too, I have to wonder about a "professional" mechanic that can't solve that issue.

I suggest that you start by finding a decent mechanic, preferably at a bike co-op where he's more likely to be used to working on older bikes. Often the mechanics you find at many shops are too young and inexperienced and things like threaded headsets are Greek to them.

As for the braze ons, I can only say you should have thought about them BEFORE you had the frame repainted.

broccolimorning

Sounds like the headset issue (my main headache with this bike) may be solvable. I'll take to to another mechanic.

As for the brakes, I read that Sheldon Brown article once and based on that changed out the link wire based on that. It improved the braking power but the lever still has to travel pretty far to brake well and the pads wear out very quickly. It's workable but I'm guessing this isn't how canti brakes are supposed to work (my first bike with canti brakes).

Thanks for the input.

Miele Man

Before your headset gets loose again does the steering bind at all when the fork is turned?

How are you tightening up the headset? What tools are you using?

What type of cantilever brakes are you using? Do the arms of them angle up or do they stick straight out?

An image of your cantilever setup showing the entire wire would be helpful.

Cheers

Miele Man

Not well cared for? Many parts switched out?

Could be that from 1987 until now saw a lot of use of that bike and thus some parts wore out and were replaced.

Thinking on that. Were the brakes you removed cantilever ones? They weren't V-brake calipers were they?

Cheers

The Golden Boy 

So you lusted after and were lucky enough to acquire one of the most collectible touring bikes of all time. A bike people would shank their mother for... You stripped it down, powdercoated it bright orange, destroyed all the collector's value of the bike- and THEN decided you didn't like it.

Maybe you should have decided you didn't need or like it BEFORE you irreversibly altered it.

I cannot say anything nice.

BlazingPedals

The brake problem may be not so much the difference in rim diameters, but the difference in rim *widths.* As I remember, rims of that vintage could be pretty wide. I've converted bikes from 27" to 700c, and most period brakes can easily handle the change in diameter. But if your new rims are narrower than the stock ones, you may want to shim the brake pads.

bikemig 

You just need a better mechanic; both of the problems you discuss can be dealt with.

(1) Get the headset fixed first and there are some good ideas in posts 2 and 3. If that doesn't work, post a thread on bike mechanics forum about the headset issue.

(2) The cantilever issue is a bit tougher. The canti spacing is narrower on an older bike than a modern one so modern cantilevers don't work well. You have may to source some vintage cantilevers that have some adjustment to make a 700c wheel work right on your miyata. I know I've made cantilever brakes work well with 700c wheels on vintage bikes built for 27 inch wheels; so have others. You can post a question about your cantilevers on the classic and vintage forum where more than a few people have dealt with this issue to get some ideas of which set of brakes will work for you.

Good luck; this is a great bike in any color and you can get it to work right.

JohnDThompson 

As this is a 1987 bike, I suspect you have a threaded headset. As others have suggested, if the top nut is bottoming out before engaging the threaded cup, all you may need is a spacer. Unfortunately, riding with a loose headset can eventually destroy the threads on the steer tube where they engage the threaded cup, and make it impossible to keep the headset adjusted even after fixing a spacing problem. Have you examined the steer tube for thread damage?