Should I get a road bike?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 1,532
Bikes: Working on replacing my stolen Soma Buena Vista Mixte
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 417 Post(s)
Liked 95 Times
in
44 Posts
Should I get a road bike?
So I currently have a "city bike." My bike has fenders, racks, Dynamo lights, baskets..... Semi-upright positioning. Perfect for commuting, the farmers market, happy hour and all the everyday cycling. Perfect for cruising around sweat free in normal clothes.
I have been thinking I'd like to do more riding for exercise. The challenge is I am surrounded by hills. And my gearing is not ideal for the super hills nearby. And I am tempted to do some of those more race-y longer distance rides. Obviously that starts sounding like a road bike.
My bike, if I were to change to racier positioning is too big. It is perfectly sized for city riding. And I know I ride faster in the "drops."
So I am tempted to get a road bike. I also keep telling myself I like to go to the gym, but in reality pedaling outside is more my speed. I also think it might be cool to do a biathlon. A different bike for exercising might be good. And an indoor trainer makes more sense with a sportier bike.
I know that if I were to get one, an older steel road bike would fit the bill. I hate brifters and I prefer the dual brake options on old school road bikes. I don't need a super fast or super light bike. But something a bit easier to pose up on the hills. And go a little faster. I also don't like the aggressive geometry of new school bikes.
I tested an 80s era road bike at a local shop. It took me a bit to get adjusted to being lower. But it was easy to see the speed improvements and maneuverability differences. The gearing didn't seem low enough, and I didn't get to try the right hills.
N+1, is it a good idea to get a second bike? What do you guys think. Would the riding experience be different enough? Or tough it out on my current bike.
I have been thinking I'd like to do more riding for exercise. The challenge is I am surrounded by hills. And my gearing is not ideal for the super hills nearby. And I am tempted to do some of those more race-y longer distance rides. Obviously that starts sounding like a road bike.
My bike, if I were to change to racier positioning is too big. It is perfectly sized for city riding. And I know I ride faster in the "drops."
So I am tempted to get a road bike. I also keep telling myself I like to go to the gym, but in reality pedaling outside is more my speed. I also think it might be cool to do a biathlon. A different bike for exercising might be good. And an indoor trainer makes more sense with a sportier bike.
I know that if I were to get one, an older steel road bike would fit the bill. I hate brifters and I prefer the dual brake options on old school road bikes. I don't need a super fast or super light bike. But something a bit easier to pose up on the hills. And go a little faster. I also don't like the aggressive geometry of new school bikes.
I tested an 80s era road bike at a local shop. It took me a bit to get adjusted to being lower. But it was easy to see the speed improvements and maneuverability differences. The gearing didn't seem low enough, and I didn't get to try the right hills.
N+1, is it a good idea to get a second bike? What do you guys think. Would the riding experience be different enough? Or tough it out on my current bike.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mountain View, CA USA and Golden, CO USA
Posts: 6,341
Bikes: 97 Litespeed, 50-39-30x13-26 10 cogs, Campagnolo Ultrashift, retroreflective rims on SON28/PowerTap hubs
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 550 Post(s)
Liked 325 Times
in
226 Posts
Yes, noting that "road bike" covers a lot of ground in terms of position (more or less aggressive), tire clearance, and gearing.
#3
Senior Member
You could make do with your present bike by changing the gearing. I don't know what kind of crank you have, but probably you could change to a 46 -34 chainring combination.
I don't know where you live, but where I live fenders are a great help in keeping me dry. A lot of randonneuring bikes sport fenders; and dynamos and racks.
Some Soma Buena Vistas have been set up as randonneuring bikes.
I don't know where you live, but where I live fenders are a great help in keeping me dry. A lot of randonneuring bikes sport fenders; and dynamos and racks.
Some Soma Buena Vistas have been set up as randonneuring bikes.
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 1,532
Bikes: Working on replacing my stolen Soma Buena Vista Mixte
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 417 Post(s)
Liked 95 Times
in
44 Posts
I want less aggressive, no flat bars, and gearing for my hills! But I think my vintage bias helps with getting the geometry right. I'd prefer the seat and bars to be just about even. I'll still be riding in the city. Uber aggressive is not for me. I've ridden a couple of road bikes recently and found most modern bikes all wrong for me!
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Middletown NY
Posts: 1,493
Bikes: Cannondale SuperSix EVO w Hi-Mod frame, Raleigh Tamland 1 and Giant Anthem X
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 352 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
6 Posts
You said that you wanted a bike for "more exercising" and a road bike won't necessarily do that for you. It will let you ride more miles, but that doesn't equate to more exercise.
Part of my training is riding a cheap, heavy Walmart bike for 2 hours at a fast pace (fast for that bike). I only cover about 26 miles with it but the workout is much more intense that when I ride my road bike. The idea is that I train on the heavy and slow bike so that when I hop on the lightweight and fast road bike, I'm flying and so far, the efforts are paying off.
Save you money for upgrades, clothing or something else and just ride the bike that you have more.
Part of my training is riding a cheap, heavy Walmart bike for 2 hours at a fast pace (fast for that bike). I only cover about 26 miles with it but the workout is much more intense that when I ride my road bike. The idea is that I train on the heavy and slow bike so that when I hop on the lightweight and fast road bike, I'm flying and so far, the efforts are paying off.
Save you money for upgrades, clothing or something else and just ride the bike that you have more.
#6
Life is good
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Not far from the Withlacoochee Trail. 🚴🏻
Posts: 18,209
Bikes: 2018 Lynskey Helix Pro
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 522 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times
in
10 Posts
If you really want a road bike get a new one (2015 or 2016). There are dozens of brands and models to pick from. Visit a bike shop or two and test ride all that appeal to you. Then get the one that "speaks" to you. Be sure to post pics of the new bike.
__________________
The Lord is merciful and gracious, slow to anger and abounding in steadfast love. - Psalm 103:8
I am a cyclist. I am not the fastest or the fittest. But I will get to where I'm going with a smile on my face.
The Lord is merciful and gracious, slow to anger and abounding in steadfast love. - Psalm 103:8
I am a cyclist. I am not the fastest or the fittest. But I will get to where I'm going with a smile on my face.
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 1,532
Bikes: Working on replacing my stolen Soma Buena Vista Mixte
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 417 Post(s)
Liked 95 Times
in
44 Posts
You could make do with your present bike by changing the gearing. I don't know what kind of crank you have, but probably you could change to a 46 -34 chainring combination.
I don't know where you live, but where I live fenders are a great help in keeping me dry. A lot of randonneuring bikes sport fenders; and dynamos and racks.
Some Soma Buena Vistas have been set up as randonneuring bikes.
I don't know where you live, but where I live fenders are a great help in keeping me dry. A lot of randonneuring bikes sport fenders; and dynamos and racks.
Some Soma Buena Vistas have been set up as randonneuring bikes.
I like fenders. I also live in California. Rainy season ends soon. If I went for a second bike it would be a sunny day bike.
The new ones don't speak to me looks wise. Too chunky / blocky and all have brifters which I hate. I also don't intend to spend a lot on a second bike. I love the geometry on the old school bikes. It is a shame my dad didn't keep his 70s road bike. It would have been perfect for me.
Last edited by jade408; 03-20-16 at 04:14 PM.
#8
Banned
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 104
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Maybe you can go around the local bike shop and look at the different brands of bicycles, first choose your favorite brand. Preferably big brands, it can guarantee service.
Ask if you can test ride several bikes. With the help of a sales specialist, you should be able to narrow down your selection to 2 or 3 bikes. Even though they may have similar prices and components, they will feel different to ride. Take each for a 10-15 minute ride, ideally over some varied terrain including a short hill. In most cases, one bike is just going to feel better for you than the others. You want a bike to become a natural extension of your body.
Ask if you can test ride several bikes. With the help of a sales specialist, you should be able to narrow down your selection to 2 or 3 bikes. Even though they may have similar prices and components, they will feel different to ride. Take each for a 10-15 minute ride, ideally over some varied terrain including a short hill. In most cases, one bike is just going to feel better for you than the others. You want a bike to become a natural extension of your body.
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 1,532
Bikes: Working on replacing my stolen Soma Buena Vista Mixte
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 417 Post(s)
Liked 95 Times
in
44 Posts
I am hoping to grab a bike better suited to a 30+ mile ride than my current setup. There are a few shops nearby that specialize in refurbishing old bikes. I've test ridden a couple of vintage road bikes. And 1 or 2 modern road bikes. I liked the vintage ones better by leaps and bounds.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,548
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18424 Post(s)
Liked 4,544 Times
in
3,376 Posts
I know that if I were to get one, an older steel road bike would fit the bill. I hate brifters and I prefer the dual brake options on old school road bikes. I don't need a super fast or super light bike. But something a bit easier to pose up on the hills. And go a little faster. I also don't like the aggressive geometry of new school bikes.
The quality road bikes didn't have them.
The more modern incarnation of those brakes are called interrupter brakes and can be added with most drop bar levers, brifters or not.
#11
Standard Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Brunswick, Maine
Posts: 4,280
Bikes: 1948 P. Barnard & Son, 1962 Rudge Sports, 1963 Freddie Grubb Routier, 1980 Manufrance Hirondelle, 1983 F. Moser Sprint, 1989 Raleigh Technium Pre, 2001 Raleigh M80
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1302 Post(s)
Liked 944 Times
in
491 Posts
The Buena Vista is steel. Go for something from the 80's that is alloy-frame and fits you perfectly. Get into those drops and be really careful, because your angle-of-visibility will be different. There will be a world of difference an you'll be able to cycle much farther and faster.
__________________
"In every job that must be done, there is an element of fun. You find the fun, and - SNAP - the job's a game!"
"In every job that must be done, there is an element of fun. You find the fun, and - SNAP - the job's a game!"
#12
Don't make me sing!
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Western PA
Posts: 1,022
Bikes: 2013 Specialized Crosstrail Elite, 1986 Centurion Elite RS, Diamondback hardtail MTB, '70s Fuji Special Road Racer, 2012 Raleigh Revenio 2.0, 1992 Trek 1000
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 308 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I thought the biathlon was a winter sport involving skis and rifles?
Chain rings and cogs can be changed to get the gearing you want. Look for well-supported group sets so that there are ample parts available. Nothing wrong with good steel bikes from the past. Take someone knowledgeable and less emotionally invested when you go to look at potential purchases so you have someone to keep you grounded when making the buying decision.
You can get plenty of exercise on a road bike. The distance, difficulty, and intensity are all up to you.
Good luck, and post pics when you find "the one"!
Chain rings and cogs can be changed to get the gearing you want. Look for well-supported group sets so that there are ample parts available. Nothing wrong with good steel bikes from the past. Take someone knowledgeable and less emotionally invested when you go to look at potential purchases so you have someone to keep you grounded when making the buying decision.
You can get plenty of exercise on a road bike. The distance, difficulty, and intensity are all up to you.
Good luck, and post pics when you find "the one"!
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 30,225
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1572 Post(s)
Liked 644 Times
in
365 Posts
1. I've been fooling around with bikes for a lot of years. I've ridden lots of different kinds of bikes - road, mountain, fixed gear and now recumbents. Over that span of years I've had by far the most amount of fun on my road bikes.
2. Do whatever you have to do to make sure that it fits. On a mountain bike, for example, you are up and down and sliding forward and back on the saddle. On a road bike you may plant yourself in the saddle and hold once position for an extended period so fit is more important. On a road bike there's spot-on fit and there's not exactly.
2. Do whatever you have to do to make sure that it fits. On a mountain bike, for example, you are up and down and sliding forward and back on the saddle. On a road bike you may plant yourself in the saddle and hold once position for an extended period so fit is more important. On a road bike there's spot-on fit and there's not exactly.
__________________
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
#14
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,839
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 154 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3616 Post(s)
Liked 3,446 Times
in
1,957 Posts
#15
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,839
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 154 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3616 Post(s)
Liked 3,446 Times
in
1,957 Posts
The more modern incarnation of those brakes are called interrupter brakes and can be added with most drop bar levers, brifters or not.
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Posts: 5,978
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1843 Post(s)
Liked 1,716 Times
in
991 Posts
Do whatever you have to do to make sure that it fits. On a mountain bike, for example, you are up and down and sliding forward and back on the saddle. On a road bike you may plant yourself in the saddle and hold once position for an extended period so fit is more important. On a road bike there's spot-on fit and there's not exactly.
#17
Banned.
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 27,199
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 378 Post(s)
Liked 1,412 Times
in
912 Posts
Also consider, price-wise, the aluminum/carbon bikes from the 90's and early 00's. They have have everything you need in a bike, a very competitive price, and again, you can add the interrupters. Shifting is modern, generally on the bars, and they are a bit lighter than many of the 80's road bikes. Bikes in this class also come with triple cranksets or even compact cranksets, and can get you on the road without breaking the bank. If/When you decide you like the sport and activity, you can move "up" to a new bike, if that's considered "up," and by then you've got an idea of what you want, and even more important, what you don't want.
Before you do any of that, though, find your size. 90% of people who drop the sport simply never had a bike that fit correctly, so the exercise was more about creating aches and pains than getting fit.
As far as a new bike, well, shops depend on their sales, and you can get great prices on close-out 2013's to 2014's. I've seen Shimano 105-equipped CAAD 10's by Cannondale for $999 in bike shops. That's a pretty sweet deal. The advantage to a new bike is 1) the shop SHOULD fit you properly, 2) warranty, and 3) Service after the sale. Good bike shops don't often discount bikes, because the margin is not great, but the good shops provide excellent service after the sale. If you are not mechanically inclined, this may be your best bet.
As far as biathlons, etc, sounds like a nice plan, just don't go overboard and get disappointed, and don't get discouraged by any lack of knowledge about bikes. I know very good triathletes who can't change a tire. Doesn't seem to slow them down or infringe on their enjoyment a bit.
#18
Banned.
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 27,199
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 378 Post(s)
Liked 1,412 Times
in
912 Posts
I am hoping to grab a bike better suited to a 30+ mile ride than my current setup. There are a few shops nearby that specialize in refurbishing old bikes. I've test ridden a couple of vintage road bikes. And 1 or 2 modern road bikes. I liked the vintage ones better by leaps and bounds.
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 1,532
Bikes: Working on replacing my stolen Soma Buena Vista Mixte
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 417 Post(s)
Liked 95 Times
in
44 Posts
I scanned Craigslist and it looks like there is a shop I didn't know about around 2 miles from home that rehabs on the cheap and offers a 6 month warranty! Seems like a good spot to go. There is a mid-80s Peugeot mixte with new wheels that could work.
I have about 4 or 5 shops that do a lot of vintage rehab, some go high end and convert them into city bikes. Some others target students looking for cheap bikes. Not quite sure the niche this new shop is going for, but it is worth a look.
It seems like, since vintage steel is hip with hipsters it would be easy to resell later.
I don't need a super nice 2nd bike. It would serve as a backup beater as well. My soma is decked out as the dream bike and works perfectly for around town in normal clothing. The road bike would have different purposes and doesn't need everything.
Thanks for the tip on auxiliary brakes. That seems like a must have for riding busier streets with better visibility. Drops would be a big adjustments.
I have about 4 or 5 shops that do a lot of vintage rehab, some go high end and convert them into city bikes. Some others target students looking for cheap bikes. Not quite sure the niche this new shop is going for, but it is worth a look.
It seems like, since vintage steel is hip with hipsters it would be easy to resell later.
I don't need a super nice 2nd bike. It would serve as a backup beater as well. My soma is decked out as the dream bike and works perfectly for around town in normal clothing. The road bike would have different purposes and doesn't need everything.
Thanks for the tip on auxiliary brakes. That seems like a must have for riding busier streets with better visibility. Drops would be a big adjustments.
#20
Veteran, Pacifist
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Seattle area
Posts: 13,380
Bikes: Bikes??? Thought this was social media?!?
Mentioned: 284 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3918 Post(s)
Liked 4,886 Times
in
2,255 Posts
You are on the right track. Test the road bike style of riding with a less expensive (but quality) used bike. You will like the drop handlebars for the multiple hand positions, even if you never ride 'in the drops'. If you have small hands there are drop bars with less drop and reach, which could be easily swapped out. You might also prefer a narrower handlebar than most men use. Good luck.
__________________
Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.
Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF Bay Area, East bay
Posts: 7,723
Bikes: Miyata 618 GT, Marinoni, Kestral 200 2002 Trek 5200, KHS Flite, Koga Miyata, Schwinn Spitfire 5, Mondia Special, Univega Alpina, Miyata team Ti, Santa Cruz Highball
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1625 Post(s)
Liked 2,686 Times
in
1,254 Posts
I see the guys from the "Spoke" at a lot of swaps. Last I heard they were having a clearance going on. Good people.
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 1,532
Bikes: Working on replacing my stolen Soma Buena Vista Mixte
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 417 Post(s)
Liked 95 Times
in
44 Posts
You are on the right track. Test the road bike style of riding with a less expensive (but quality) used bike. You will like the drop handlebars for the multiple hand positions, even if you never ride 'in the drops'. If you have small hands there are drop bars with less drop and reach, which could be easily swapped out. You might also prefer a narrower handlebar than most men use. Good luck.
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sin City, Nevada
Posts: 2,892
Bikes: Catrike 700, Greenspeed GTO trike, , Linear LWB recumbent, Haluzak Horizon SWB recumbent, Balance 450 MTB, Cannondale SM800 Beast of the East
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 523 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 231 Times
in
183 Posts
If the 80s road bike was a good fit, why not just buy it and change the gearing a little. You might get away with as little as changing the cassette/freewheel to one with more teeth on the inner ring. It might also require changing the RD if the existing one will not cover a wide enough range of gears (maximum difference between inner and outer cogs). They come in a wide variety. I have an 11/36 cassette and a Shimano Deore SGS RD-M591 derailleur with Dura-Ace bar end shifters. I'm not sure what other shifters this RD is compatible with.
#24
The Left Coast, USA
However, if you're thinking what you want is hill climber, think again when it comes to some of the C&V bikes. Whoever designed those 80's racer drivetrains either never heard of hills or those burly men of the last century had no problem with corn cob clusters, charging up hills 42x21. That's not me. So, if hill climbing is a big part of your riding experience, you'll need a modern compact double or an old triple crank to save your knees. If you end up putting one of those wide jump freewheel on a older bike you'll have big jumps in the gear options, not so fun. As a compromise you can put an alpine-type crank on the front, maybe getting a 34x25 climbing options and still have a fairly tight spread in he rear ...but you will be spending some money on upgrades.
Last edited by FrenchFit; 03-21-16 at 02:58 PM.
#25
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 1,532
Bikes: Working on replacing my stolen Soma Buena Vista Mixte
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 417 Post(s)
Liked 95 Times
in
44 Posts
If the 80s road bike was a good fit, why not just buy it and change the gearing a little. You might get away with as little as changing the cassette/freewheel to one with more teeth on the inner ring. It might also require changing the RD if the existing one will not cover a wide enough range of gears (maximum difference between inner and outer cogs). They come in a wide variety. I have an 11/36 cassette and a Shimano Deore SGS RD-M591 derailleur with Dura-Ace bar end shifters. I'm not sure what other shifters this RD is compatible with.
The one I tried had a new rear wheel and original front wheel. Not sure how I feel about that. I do want to test a couple more options. And I have 3 more nearby stores to check out. I also saw an OK craigslist option, but it is a little far away.
That being said, picking out a steel road bike frame I like is important, as I doubt my aesthetic tastes will change. Changing out bar tape, shifters, wheels, etc could all be on the table at some point. Vintage frames seem to be better suited to create a touring or rando or whatever sort of ideas I may have that require a faster / more comfy bike for longer distances.
I don't need to be a speed demon by any means. I like the idea of going farther, and do want some somewhat practical options available. Like a rack (but no baskets).