Anyone tried the platformer 2.0's for any of the speedplays, especially zero's? I had read the original one's for the zero's were not terribly awesome....

One question, probably nothing: after a little use, the r540 pedals have some grease that has seeped out from between the spindles and pedal body on the side facing crank arm, they are listed as sealed cartridge bearings, is this normal break in? Sorry if this is normal and my question is stupid. Sealed would lead me to think there should be no leakage etc, theres a decent amount on each side, but not excessive. Thanks.

The M780 trekking/touring pedal that is SPD on one side, and platform on the other. The SPD side faces to the rear at rest, so basically one points their toes up for clipping in, or toes down for the platform. It sounds complicated but it isn't, the key is that the pedal consistently hangs vertically.

Just got some old Look pedals, say "Free Arc" on the back, with the adjustable float knob on back. Would I be correct in assuming these take the delta cleats?

I think it adjusts the float at least from google's vast, limited knowledge.

Nevermind. I see REI has them, I need the red ones apparently.

These scuffed up Look's are definitely keepers.

That is true for dirt or mud, not so much for gravel. If you get enough trash in the cleats they won't release; don't ask me how I know.

I run Speedplay Frogs. They are a 2 bolt MTB pedal but I run them on my roadies and love them. The SZR is their new MTB pedal. I've never ridden "road" pedals so I can't comment on those. My friend that I ride with always takes a long time for him to clip in. I just take my foot off and I'm going long before he can get clipped in.

I've tried 4 different systems in the matter of a couple weeks, speedplay zero, spd-sl, spd, and look delta. So far I find the single sided road pedals the easiest for me, but I believe when I get mountain/touring recessed cleat shoes, the spd may work better.

Got some new specialized tahoe mtb spd shoes today, still a pain in the ass to clip into spd, do I just suck, do they wear in some, or is this just how it is... Spoiled to road pedals.

Some years ago, I bought an inexpensive pair of RITCHEY MTB pedals. I learned to ride clipless pedals with those, but I noticed that I was always fiddling with the adjustment. I found this quite annoying.

Next I bought a pair of Crank Bros. Quattro pedals. They billed these as their true road pedal with the EggBeater core, but a larger platform than the Candys. I REALLY liked those! No adjustment to mess with. Consistent clip in and out and little or no centering on the float. I probably would still be riding them, but I lost interest when Crank Bros. discontinued them.

That led me to what I've been using for the past several years: BeBop Pedals. They function as road and MTB pedals. I use them for my road bike with a pair of Pearl Izumi MTB shoes. They have no adjustments and a smooth, low force clip in. There is no centering on the float and like the Crank Bros. pedals, you can unclip in either direction. That's important to me as I can only unclip with an inward rotation. The pedals and cleats are very open, so any debris falls out or gets pushed out. They come in carbon steel, stainless steel and titanium varieties. I use the stainless ones and they are rebuildable.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=520189

Get mountain pedals. That way you don't become a cripple as soon as you get off the bike.

Your brain is likely just used to doing it one way, so when you get another pedal system it keeps wanting to do it the first way which doesn't work.

I personally definitely find mtb pedals easier to clip in and out of than road (speedplay) pedals even with the light action. I think (with the light action) my brain just doesn't like having to keep track of 2 different movements to do it.

I would not call them sealed bearings, but sealed mechanism. Regardless, don't be alarmed by a bit of seepage.

Thankyou [MENTION=351052]techsensei[/MENTION]

[MENTION=131376]PaulRivers[/MENTION] I find with the spd, if I don't pay much attention, I clip into them decent enough, after I start paying attention, success flies out the window.

What you're doing is attempting to override the muscle memory...

Sorry to revive my own dead thread.... Took off the m324's and bought some m520's, due to alot of positive opinions and such, couldn't be happier. Thus far everything positive I have read about them has been true, super easy even in traffic to clip in.

m324's (old ones, 1 side flat 1 side clipless):
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...PL._SY355_.jpg

m520's (new ones, both sides clipless):
http://www.wigglestatic.com/product-...500&h=1500&a=7

I think the 2 sided pedals are noteably easier to clip in and out of without looking down at the pedals, compared to the one sided version. Other people disagree with me. Curious what you think, being that you switched from the 1 sided to the 2 sided version.

The m324 required looking down almost always, then when the pedals broke in some, I assume the seals wore a little bit, and even when looking down it was difficult (for me) to flip the pedal to face spd side up. The m520 I can always clip into either immediately or press close enough to start pedaling and within half a revolution or so it clips in. I was worried about the small surface area creating worse hot spots, but they are no worse, possibly a little better. Other than being built solidly, for me I found no merits to the m324.

Possibly something like the a530 might be weighted in such a way that the spd side faces up, but m324 its prone to facing down.

Cool, thanks for writing back. I had either the m324's or something with a similar design, same issue, really didn't like them.

You're welcome. Now I need to try to find some stiffer/arched footbeds/insoles for the specialized shoes I got, they still give me some hotspots, although I am a bigger guy, the ones they came with say plush, so seems reasonable to think different ones may help, just not sure where to look for them at.

Also, I have read in a few places that speedplay light action cleats will work with zero pedals, can anyone confirm this? TIA

Theres a few people in the Road Cycling forum who've confirmed this.

See post #11 :

http://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycli...ht-pedals.html

[MENTION=423178]thin_concrete[/MENTION] Thank you! That is one of the threads I had read leading me to believe it to be true, but couldn't find it again. I was basically gifted a pair of stainless zero's, found them somewhat difficult to enter/exit. Took the cleats apart, cleaned, dry lubed, put back together and was careful not to over-tighten. They worked reasonably better but upon reading about being able to use the light action cleats with them, or using the clip out of the light action in the zero cleat, it sounded great, as I am no where near racing.