Ran across a used Hardrock, feedback welcome
#1
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Ran across a used Hardrock, feedback welcome
I am saving to buy a more expensive bike, but folks told me to stay open to a "good" used cycle. I like the look of this one, and really spent some time finding out what I could from the gal that has it.
I'm going to meet her today, after she is done surfing, lol She's 30 and active in a lot of things. She got a newer bike from a friend, and she just doesn't want 2 bikes. This she bought at a garage sale for 100 dollars a year ago. She thinks it is probably a '90s bike. She doesn't know though for sure.
I will have to ride it to see if it will fit me. She is 5'3", I'm 5'2" but I know that doesn't man "leg length" etc.
She will take offers, so I wouldn't know what to offer her, maybe 50 bucks?? Then she can counter if she wants. I've got cash which might help, .
The pics look good, any feedback for me? I know most of the questions to ask, but reminders are welcome. She says she never had any issues with it, and only rode short distances, 5 miles at most.
I'm going to meet her today, after she is done surfing, lol She's 30 and active in a lot of things. She got a newer bike from a friend, and she just doesn't want 2 bikes. This she bought at a garage sale for 100 dollars a year ago. She thinks it is probably a '90s bike. She doesn't know though for sure.
I will have to ride it to see if it will fit me. She is 5'3", I'm 5'2" but I know that doesn't man "leg length" etc.
She will take offers, so I wouldn't know what to offer her, maybe 50 bucks?? Then she can counter if she wants. I've got cash which might help, .
The pics look good, any feedback for me? I know most of the questions to ask, but reminders are welcome. She says she never had any issues with it, and only rode short distances, 5 miles at most.
#2
Senior Member
Those were decent built bikes. I had one I converted to a drop bar touring bike and it worked quite well. If you can get it for 50-100 you are doing good.
#4
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I'll check back in after I ride it look it over etc. Thank you much, I feel encouraged on this one. Looked at another that looked like junk, and he told me "I was walking on water" if I got it for 150 This one I have a gut-feeling hasn't been ridden much at all, more will be revealed this afternoon denise
#5
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The Hardrocks are good bikes, even though they were the bottom of Specialized's mountain bike lineup from the early to mid '90's. Bought 2 used 2-3 yrs ago, both going strong. Really can't go wrong with them.
Do a quick checkover and see if anything would need to be replaced--chain, brake pads, etc. Do a test ride and make sure the bike fits.
$70 tops---anything lower would be better IMO. Good luck
Do a quick checkover and see if anything would need to be replaced--chain, brake pads, etc. Do a test ride and make sure the bike fits.
$70 tops---anything lower would be better IMO. Good luck
#6
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Thanks Obed,
if it hasn't been ridden much, been takin care of (protected from the elements when not being ridden) I think I may have found a winner after hearing from you guys. And I even like the colorWimmins hey, but I don't want pink, ever!! Famous last words, best be careful hey denise
if it hasn't been ridden much, been takin care of (protected from the elements when not being ridden) I think I may have found a winner after hearing from you guys. And I even like the colorWimmins hey, but I don't want pink, ever!! Famous last words, best be careful hey denise
#7
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The Hardrocks are good bikes, even though they were the bottom of Specialized's mountain bike lineup from the early to mid '90's. Bought 2 used 2-3 yrs ago, both going strong. Really can't go wrong with them.
Do a quick checkover and see if anything would need to be replaced--chain, brake pads, etc. Do a test ride and make sure the bike fits.
$70 tops---anything lower would be better IMO. Good luck
Do a quick checkover and see if anything would need to be replaced--chain, brake pads, etc. Do a test ride and make sure the bike fits.
$70 tops---anything lower would be better IMO. Good luck
#8
Senior Member
Wow, hope I can tell if it needs new anything. Tires I know because of my vehicles, LOL! Brake pads I can tell if they are worn down. She'll let me ride it around, and make some adjustments too. How do I know a chain needs to be replaced, rust? Or real oily dirty?? Novice here
If needed, oily, dirty chains can be wiped off and cleaned.
If the chain is rusty then usually the cassette will be too, so both would need to be replaced.
But if you say it's in decent condition, which the bike looks like, then I wouldn't worry about it
Last edited by Maver71; 08-04-16 at 11:57 AM. Reason: add a sentence
#9
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Looks pretty good from the photos and even if she wants the full $100, if it fits you it's a good price (but see if you can get it for a bit less).
edited to add
Noticed that the saddle is pointed up just a bit. If it fits and rides well, you may want to level it.
edited to add
Noticed that the saddle is pointed up just a bit. If it fits and rides well, you may want to level it.
#11
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thank you much!! denise
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Yeah, see if it fits. It's probably close enough that you can work with it, anyway. Look for cracks in the welds around the head tube (the part of the frame where the steering takes place) and bottom bracket (the part of the frame where the tubes all come together by the pedals). Forgive me if you already knew that, but I wanted to be sure you looked it over. Some "mountain bikes" get loaned out to people who aren't as careful as they should be, and they get abused, so it's worth looking for damage that might not be easily repaired. You probably don't want to take on a project that would require a complete, frame-up rebuild.
If you won't be riding off-road, you can get some smoother tires, which will reduce rolling resistance and make riding on hard surfaces both easier and safer. Your local bike shop can guide you, or you can DIY. You'll want to know how to fix a flat, anyway.
Looks like very nice bike, and a really good deal.
If you won't be riding off-road, you can get some smoother tires, which will reduce rolling resistance and make riding on hard surfaces both easier and safer. Your local bike shop can guide you, or you can DIY. You'll want to know how to fix a flat, anyway.
Looks like very nice bike, and a really good deal.
#13
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Yeah, see if it fits. It's probably close enough that you can work with it, anyway. Look for cracks in the welds around the head tube (the part of the frame where the steering takes place) and bottom bracket (the part of the frame where the tubes all come together by the pedals). Forgive me if you already knew that, but I wanted to be sure you looked it over. Some "mountain bikes" get loaned out to people who aren't as careful as they should be, and they get abused, so it's worth looking for damage that might not be easily repaired. You probably don't want to take on a project that would require a complete, frame-up rebuild.
If you won't be riding off-road, you can get some smoother tires, which will reduce rolling resistance and make riding on hard surfaces both easier and safer. Your local bike shop can guide you, or you can DIY. You'll want to know how to fix a flat, anyway.
Looks like very nice bike, and a really good deal.
If you won't be riding off-road, you can get some smoother tires, which will reduce rolling resistance and make riding on hard surfaces both easier and safer. Your local bike shop can guide you, or you can DIY. You'll want to know how to fix a flat, anyway.
Looks like very nice bike, and a really good deal.
No, I don't know any of that so I am grateful you explained in parenthesis I will be doing some off-road too, but as always, I will take your instructions, as well as everyone who is so good about helping me!!
I so hope this will be in good shape, and fit me. I don't want to wait while I save if I don't have to
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Unless she has had it repainted and applied new decals,, that bike has never seen a trail. If those pics are real ... looking at the saddle, the grips, the tires, that thing looks to be in "As New" condition.
It also looks like it had rack mounts. I love bikes like that because they are so fun and so handy---I wouldn't want to ride all day, but for around town, a quick trail, shopping commuting ... never have to worry about bad pavement or hopping curbs, just lot so fun ... and tough enough to Really haul the groceries (couple gallons of milk and a 25-lb bag of rice.)
The cranks look a little long ... could just be perspective ... and the seat look a little low. I know some non-riders set up their bikes that way, with the saddle low and pointed up, because they aren't interested in efficiency, and they like being able to stand flat-footed while in the saddle.
You might want to raise the saddle and level it ... can't tell, but you will be able to.
Looks like a Find.
It also looks like it had rack mounts. I love bikes like that because they are so fun and so handy---I wouldn't want to ride all day, but for around town, a quick trail, shopping commuting ... never have to worry about bad pavement or hopping curbs, just lot so fun ... and tough enough to Really haul the groceries (couple gallons of milk and a 25-lb bag of rice.)
The cranks look a little long ... could just be perspective ... and the seat look a little low. I know some non-riders set up their bikes that way, with the saddle low and pointed up, because they aren't interested in efficiency, and they like being able to stand flat-footed while in the saddle.
You might want to raise the saddle and level it ... can't tell, but you will be able to.
Looks like a Find.
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Google has lots of advice on checking a used bike. Here's a few I recommend:
Essential Second Hand Bicycle Buyers Checklist
Things to look out for
Essential Second Hand Bicycle Buyers Checklist
Things to look out for
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Bikes so far: 2011 Felt Z85, 80's Raleigh Sovereign (USA), 91 Bianchi Peregrine, 91 Austro-Daimler Pathfinder, 90's Trek 730 Multitrack, STOLEN: 80 Schwinn Voyageur (Japan)
#16
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Unless she has had it repainted and applied new decals,, that bike has never seen a trail. If those pics are real ... looking at the saddle, the grips, the tires, that thing looks to be in "As New" condition.
It also looks like it had rack mounts. I love bikes like that because they are so fun and so handy---I wouldn't want to ride all day, but for around town, a quick trail, shopping commuting ... never have to worry about bad pavement or hopping curbs, just lot so fun ... and tough enough to Really haul the groceries (couple gallons of milk and a 25-lb bag of rice.)
The cranks look a little long ... could just be perspective ... and the seat look a little low. I know some non-riders set up their bikes that way, with the saddle low and pointed up, because they aren't interested in efficiency, and they like being able to stand flat-footed while in the saddle.
You might want to raise the saddle and level it ... can't tell, but you will be able to.
Looks like a Find.
It also looks like it had rack mounts. I love bikes like that because they are so fun and so handy---I wouldn't want to ride all day, but for around town, a quick trail, shopping commuting ... never have to worry about bad pavement or hopping curbs, just lot so fun ... and tough enough to Really haul the groceries (couple gallons of milk and a 25-lb bag of rice.)
The cranks look a little long ... could just be perspective ... and the seat look a little low. I know some non-riders set up their bikes that way, with the saddle low and pointed up, because they aren't interested in efficiency, and they like being able to stand flat-footed while in the saddle.
You might want to raise the saddle and level it ... can't tell, but you will be able to.
Looks like a Find.
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The Hardrock was made sporadically over the years between 1993 and 2012. You can check the components here 1993 Specialized Hardrock - BikePedia Lists the years it was made and has the components used each year. It should be relatively easy to figure out which year it was made if you look at the components on the bike and compare to the list. If you can get it for 50 bucks, all the better but I expect you would have to pay a lot more to get a new bike of equal quality these days. Having no front suspension is a good point as you already have been told. Just make sure it fits. If the bike is 15+ years old, you might consider replacing the brake pads and carefully check the tires. Rubber ages and brake pads harden and don't stop as well once they do. Replacements don't cost much.
I owned a late 1980s Specialized Rockhopper that I bought used for $140 in 1991. Great first mountain bike. Never had a problem with it.
I owned a late 1980s Specialized Rockhopper that I bought used for $140 in 1991. Great first mountain bike. Never had a problem with it.
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One thing to note is that the wheels don't use quick release skewers, so you'll need to carry a tool to remove the axle nuts in case you have to change a tube. Not an issue; just something to be aware of, especially as your rides begin to take your further from home.
It looks like its never had a kickstand installed on it, so that's good. Nothing wrong with kickstands, but some people over tighten the mounting hardware, which can cause damage to the frame.
When you're looking it over, raise each end and give the wheel a good spin. Watch the rim, not the tire, and look for "wobble". If it's hard to be sure it's wobbling, that's pretty good. If it wobbles, noticeably, the wheels will need to be trued. Check for loose spokes by squeezing each adjacent pair, and notice whether they seem similarly tight. If you have the ear for it, pluck the spokes as pairs and listen for a similar note. If they're off by more than a few cents, it would be best to have the wheels trued and/or tensioned at the local bike shop.
Make sure it shifts into all gears, front and rear, and in both directions, while you're test riding. The shifting should be quick and consistent between all gears. If it's not, some minor adjusting will likely bring it in line, or maybe just some cleaning and lubing of the hardware.
The brake levers should feel firm and provide plenty of stopping power well before you run out of room to squeeze them, and the brakes shouldn't make any obnoxious noises when you apply them.
Squeeze the front brake, while straddling the bike, and try to roll it back and forth, while watching the "head tube" area. The fork shouldn't exhibit any looseness.
When you ride it, shift into a gear in the middle of the range, and stand up and pedal as hard as you can for a few strokes paying particular attention to the "bottom bracket" area, where the pedal axle passes through the frame. Try to notice any roughness in the bearings, or any squeaking or clicking or grinding noises. It should be smooth and consistent. While stopped, turn the pedals by hand, and feel for any roughness in the bearings.
Most of these are fixed with simple adjustments that you can do (some specialty tools might be required), or you can have your local bike shop, or one of the guys you've spoken with about bikes, give it a tune up.
I think you're going to find that this bike is in excellent condition, and the only thing that'll hold you back from shoving your money into her hands might be the size of the frame, and whether it fits you. It's hard to pass up a good deal on a cool bike, but fit is more important than just about anything else, and will determine whether you ride the bike, or not. If it hurts to ride it, you won't. On the other hand, it's a good bike for a good price, so, even if it doesn't fit you, it's probably worth buying to flip for a small profit to go towards your next bike, and that's fun, too.
It looks like its never had a kickstand installed on it, so that's good. Nothing wrong with kickstands, but some people over tighten the mounting hardware, which can cause damage to the frame.
When you're looking it over, raise each end and give the wheel a good spin. Watch the rim, not the tire, and look for "wobble". If it's hard to be sure it's wobbling, that's pretty good. If it wobbles, noticeably, the wheels will need to be trued. Check for loose spokes by squeezing each adjacent pair, and notice whether they seem similarly tight. If you have the ear for it, pluck the spokes as pairs and listen for a similar note. If they're off by more than a few cents, it would be best to have the wheels trued and/or tensioned at the local bike shop.
Make sure it shifts into all gears, front and rear, and in both directions, while you're test riding. The shifting should be quick and consistent between all gears. If it's not, some minor adjusting will likely bring it in line, or maybe just some cleaning and lubing of the hardware.
The brake levers should feel firm and provide plenty of stopping power well before you run out of room to squeeze them, and the brakes shouldn't make any obnoxious noises when you apply them.
Squeeze the front brake, while straddling the bike, and try to roll it back and forth, while watching the "head tube" area. The fork shouldn't exhibit any looseness.
When you ride it, shift into a gear in the middle of the range, and stand up and pedal as hard as you can for a few strokes paying particular attention to the "bottom bracket" area, where the pedal axle passes through the frame. Try to notice any roughness in the bearings, or any squeaking or clicking or grinding noises. It should be smooth and consistent. While stopped, turn the pedals by hand, and feel for any roughness in the bearings.
Most of these are fixed with simple adjustments that you can do (some specialty tools might be required), or you can have your local bike shop, or one of the guys you've spoken with about bikes, give it a tune up.
I think you're going to find that this bike is in excellent condition, and the only thing that'll hold you back from shoving your money into her hands might be the size of the frame, and whether it fits you. It's hard to pass up a good deal on a cool bike, but fit is more important than just about anything else, and will determine whether you ride the bike, or not. If it hurts to ride it, you won't. On the other hand, it's a good bike for a good price, so, even if it doesn't fit you, it's probably worth buying to flip for a small profit to go towards your next bike, and that's fun, too.
#19
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The Hardrock was made sporadically over the years between 1993 and 2012. You can check the components here 1993 Specialized Hardrock - BikePedia Lists the years it was made and has the components used each year. It should be relatively easy to figure out which year it was made if you look at the components on the bike and compare to the list. If you can get it for 50 bucks, all the better but I expect you would have to pay a lot more to get a new bike of equal quality these days. Having no front suspension is a good point as you already have been told. Just make sure it fits. If the bike is 15+ years old, you might consider replacing the brake pads and carefully check the tires. Rubber ages and brake pads harden and don't stop as well once they do. Replacements don't cost much.
I owned a late 1980s Specialized Rockhopper that I bought used for $140 in 1991. Great first mountain bike. Never had a problem with it.
I owned a late 1980s Specialized Rockhopper that I bought used for $140 in 1991. Great first mountain bike. Never had a problem with it.
Thanks again, so much!! denise
#20
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Decent, low-cost bike, certainly a step above Wally-world. Also, you can fit racks and fenders to it, which makes a great commuter.
#21
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One thing to note is that the wheels don't use quick release skewers, so you'll need to carry a tool to remove the axle nuts in case you have to change a tube. Not an issue; just something to be aware of, especially as your rides begin to take your further from home.
It looks like its never had a kickstand installed on it, so that's good. Nothing wrong with kickstands, but some people over tighten the mounting hardware, which can cause damage to the frame.
When you're looking it over, raise each end and give the wheel a good spin. Watch the rim, not the tire, and look for "wobble". If it's hard to be sure it's wobbling, that's pretty good. If it wobbles, noticeably, the wheels will need to be trued. Check for loose spokes by squeezing each adjacent pair, and notice whether they seem similarly tight. If you have the ear for it, pluck the spokes as pairs and listen for a similar note. If they're off by more than a few cents, it would be best to have the wheels trued and/or tensioned at the local bike shop.
Make sure it shifts into all gears, front and rear, and in both directions, while you're test riding. The shifting should be quick and consistent between all gears. If it's not, some minor adjusting will likely bring it in line, or maybe just some cleaning and lubing of the hardware.
The brake levers should feel firm and provide plenty of stopping power well before you run out of room to squeeze them, and the brakes shouldn't make any obnoxious noises when you apply them.
Squeeze the front brake, while straddling the bike, and try to roll it back and forth, while watching the "head tube" area. The fork shouldn't exhibit any looseness.
When you ride it, shift into a gear in the middle of the range, and stand up and pedal as hard as you can for a few strokes paying particular attention to the "bottom bracket" area, where the pedal axle passes through the frame. Try to notice any roughness in the bearings, or any squeaking or clicking or grinding noises. It should be smooth and consistent. While stopped, turn the pedals by hand, and feel for any roughness in the bearings.
Most of these are fixed with simple adjustments that you can do (some specialty tools might be required), or you can have your local bike shop, or one of the guys you've spoken with about bikes, give it a tune up.
I think you're going to find that this bike is in excellent condition, and the only thing that'll hold you back from shoving your money into her hands might be the size of the frame, and whether it fits you. It's hard to pass up a good deal on a cool bike, but fit is more important than just about anything else, and will determine whether you ride the bike, or not. If it hurts to ride it, you won't. On the other hand, it's a good bike for a good price, so, even if it doesn't fit you, it's probably worth buying to flip for a small profit to go towards your next bike, and that's fun, too.
It looks like its never had a kickstand installed on it, so that's good. Nothing wrong with kickstands, but some people over tighten the mounting hardware, which can cause damage to the frame.
When you're looking it over, raise each end and give the wheel a good spin. Watch the rim, not the tire, and look for "wobble". If it's hard to be sure it's wobbling, that's pretty good. If it wobbles, noticeably, the wheels will need to be trued. Check for loose spokes by squeezing each adjacent pair, and notice whether they seem similarly tight. If you have the ear for it, pluck the spokes as pairs and listen for a similar note. If they're off by more than a few cents, it would be best to have the wheels trued and/or tensioned at the local bike shop.
Make sure it shifts into all gears, front and rear, and in both directions, while you're test riding. The shifting should be quick and consistent between all gears. If it's not, some minor adjusting will likely bring it in line, or maybe just some cleaning and lubing of the hardware.
The brake levers should feel firm and provide plenty of stopping power well before you run out of room to squeeze them, and the brakes shouldn't make any obnoxious noises when you apply them.
Squeeze the front brake, while straddling the bike, and try to roll it back and forth, while watching the "head tube" area. The fork shouldn't exhibit any looseness.
When you ride it, shift into a gear in the middle of the range, and stand up and pedal as hard as you can for a few strokes paying particular attention to the "bottom bracket" area, where the pedal axle passes through the frame. Try to notice any roughness in the bearings, or any squeaking or clicking or grinding noises. It should be smooth and consistent. While stopped, turn the pedals by hand, and feel for any roughness in the bearings.
Most of these are fixed with simple adjustments that you can do (some specialty tools might be required), or you can have your local bike shop, or one of the guys you've spoken with about bikes, give it a tune up.
I think you're going to find that this bike is in excellent condition, and the only thing that'll hold you back from shoving your money into her hands might be the size of the frame, and whether it fits you. It's hard to pass up a good deal on a cool bike, but fit is more important than just about anything else, and will determine whether you ride the bike, or not. If it hurts to ride it, you won't. On the other hand, it's a good bike for a good price, so, even if it doesn't fit you, it's probably worth buying to flip for a small profit to go towards your next bike, and that's fun, too.
Thanks again, such a lot to remember, but I will try and look it over, everything mentioned ty Kevin, as always, so appreciated, denise
#22
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Yes, fenders, I want to ride all Winter, and that means rain or shine. We do have a lot of wind at times, but I can try with some water-proof clothing, and yes, fenders Thank you Alex!!
#23
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I have an identical bike, except for possibly the size. I'm pretty sure it's from '88. I paid $50 for mine. It was in good shape, but not as clean-looking as yours. Go for it; it'll rock your stripey socks.
#24
my first Ride, 1954-55
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Bikes: Northwoods Springdale Women's bike
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How did you know I have stripey socks and mine flash! Bet you don't have a pair of those puppies
#25
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OK, the OP's user name just gave me a belly-laugh?
Can we assume you are a big Mel Brooks fan?
Can we assume you are a big Mel Brooks fan?