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jgw 12-27-16 07:22 PM

Pedal removal
 
I have a trek FX 7.2. Just got a wahoo bluesc sensor. I need to remove the pedal to install the sensor.

For the life of me I cannot figure out how to get the pedal off (it's stock or stuck). Do I use an Allen wrench or Regular wrench?

I have found YouTube videos on pedal removal, but I am still scratching my head. Anyone want point me in the right direction with a video link, web page or just a word of advice? I understand that the left side pedal is reversed.

badger1 12-27-16 07:27 PM

Approximate research time: <1 second:

Pedal Installation and Removal | Park Tool

If this doesn't make sense, go to LBS. You're welcome.:)

jgw 12-27-16 07:35 PM

Thanks for the reply. I guess it is my novice nature. For my particular brand I am unsure if I need the Allen wrench or a regular wrench.

jgw 12-27-16 07:40 PM

Wahoo! Got it! Regular wrench. took a lot more force than I expected. The park tool article helped, especially in positioning at less than a 90 degree angle for better leverage. Now how do I get the pedal back on? (just kidding)

badger1 12-27-16 07:49 PM


Originally Posted by jgw (Post 19274564)
Wahoo! Got it! Regular wrench. took a lot more force than I expected. The park tool article helped, especially in positioning at less than a 90 degree angle for better leverage. Now how do I get the pedal back on? (just kidding)

You'd better be!;)

Homebrew01 12-27-16 09:25 PM


Originally Posted by jgw (Post 19274564)
Wahoo! Got it! Regular wrench. took a lot more force than I expected. The park tool article helped, especially in positioning at less than a 90 degree angle for better leverage. Now how do I get the pedal back on? (just kidding)

But seriously, smear a dab of grease on the threads first, and just tighten it "snug"... No need to go nuts tightening, since pedaling will end up tightening it a bit more.

Also, it should go in most of the way by hand. Don't force it with a wrench...it might be cross threaded if it's hard to turn right at the beginning..

bulldog1935 12-27-16 09:39 PM

depends on the pedal
I have some Straightline Amp pedals that needs to be torqued or they'll come loose.

Left pedal is LH thread, Right pedal is RH thread.

All modern pedals have a hex socket. Most also have wrench flats.

easiest way to remember on all pedals is tightening top goes to front, loosening top goes to rear

rumrunn6 12-28-16 08:05 AM

I should get a pedal wrench. my other wrenches can sometimes be a hassle to squeeze into the tight space between the pedal & the crank arm

John_V 12-28-16 01:26 PM


Originally Posted by jgw (Post 19274539)
I have a trek FX 7.2. Just got a wahoo bluesc sensor. I need to remove the pedal to install the sensor. .....

Why did you need to remove the pedal to get the magnet on? I also have a Wahoo BlueSC and and it came with a zip tie to hold the magnet on the crank. Another, and in my opinion, better way to do it is to use a rare earth magnet and place it on the end of the pedal spindle, then adjust the sensor so that it passes across the magnet.

decentdrummer91 12-28-16 01:46 PM

good thing you didn't crank it too hard one way, one time I forgot which way it was supposed to crank and stripped the pedal bolt part...barely got it off after that LOL!

bikecrate 12-28-16 02:13 PM


Originally Posted by badger1 (Post 19274549)
Approximate research time: <1 second:

Pedal Installation and Removal | Park Tool

If this doesn't make sense, go to LBS. You're welcome.:)

I printed out an older version of that and stuck it in my garage. I always pull it out as a refresher when removing the pedals. It has lots of grease stains now. :)

dabac 12-28-16 02:43 PM


Originally Posted by bulldog1935 (Post 19274759)
All modern pedals have a hex socket.

Do you mean "modern" as in "recently produced" or "modern" as in "designed during the last decades"?

There are still plenty of current production cheap flatties that don't have a hex socket.

bulldog1935 12-28-16 03:06 PM

I guess I mean modern as in modern thought, though many pedals going back into the 80s have hex socket.

IrishBrewer 12-28-16 03:14 PM

Alternatively, get a small neodymium disc magnet and attach it to the pedal spindle if you can. They stay put really well.

badger1 12-28-16 03:34 PM


Originally Posted by bikecrate (Post 19276004)
I printed out an older version of that and stuck it in my garage. I always pull it out as a refresher when removing the pedals. It has lots of grease stains now. :)

Yep; I've got quite a few of those Park Tool 'how to' thingies laying about -- learning curve detritus.
BTW, your avatar pic -- is that who I think it is? If so, kudos; anyone who 'gets' R A is ok by me!

jgw 12-28-16 07:36 PM

I took off the pedal because the instructional video I was using said to do so. The provided magnet was in a rubber sleeve that fit right over the crank. I needed to tilt the sensor toward it a bit, this made the rubber band unusable as it kept slipping out of its notch. The zip ties work fine and fit through the holes in the sensor. I assumed that's why the holes were there. Used it this morning and worked great.

As far as my pedals go I could fit an Allen wrench in them but it would not budge. The wrench I ended up using was tough to grip the bolt with. This is why I was confused, it seemed like it took an allenwrench but ultimately didn't, the regular wrench I was using wasn't really the best tool so I kept thinking perhaps I should be using an Allen wrench. Got it sorted and the park tools article helped. I think I might print it out too along with other articles I need along the way.

Thanks for all the help.

ClydeTim 12-28-16 08:57 PM

Pretty easy concept to remember figuring the threads are different form one another.

Left AND right side:

Tightening pedal, turn toward the front.

Loosening, turn toward the back.

ramzilla 12-28-16 09:16 PM

Sometimes it's just not that easy. I've had to remove the crank arms and disassemble the pedal itself ............. then,,, ... use a 14" pipe wrench to "bust" the pedal axle off the crank arm. Yeah...really. ALSO: When you're putting the new pedals on grease the threads real good with some heavy green waterproof grease. (Help stop the insanity of stuck threads).

Hiro11 12-28-16 10:49 PM


Originally Posted by bulldog1935 (Post 19274759)
depends on the pedal
I have some Straightline Amp pedals that needs to be torqued or they'll come loose.

That's interesting, I've never had this problem on any pedals. I always grease and then just snug them up.

bulldog1935 12-28-16 11:10 PM

they take the same size hex as a crank bolt, which makes it easy to torque.
never had them come lose, but I've always installed them with a breaker bar.
I think it has to do with polymer bushing and no bearings.

JonathanGennick 12-29-16 07:29 AM


Originally Posted by jgw (Post 19276714)
As far as my pedals go I could fit an Allen wrench in them but it would not budge.

Some pedals accept both types of wrench as a convenience to the user. Then you can use whichever style of wrench that you prefer or have on hand. Allen keys can be short, and sometimes leverage is needed to remove a pedal. I keep around a short piece of electrical conduit as a "cheater" to slip over an Allen key to make its handle longer.

bikecrate 12-29-16 08:01 AM


Originally Posted by badger1 (Post 19276191)
Yep; I've got quite a few of those Park Tool 'how to' thingies laying about -- learning curve detritus.
BTW, your avatar pic -- is that who I think it is? If so, kudos; anyone who 'gets' R A is ok by me!

This time of year I like to watch Merry Christmas Mr. Bean and D.I.Y. Mr. Bean with the New Year's Eve party. The scene of him driving his Mini home from the store is a classic.

gregf83 12-29-16 08:09 AM


Originally Posted by ClydeTim (Post 19276840)
Pretty easy concept to remember figuring the threads are different form one another.

Left AND right side:

Tightening pedal, turn toward the front.

Loosening, turn toward the back.

Those instructions are ambiguous and assume you are holding the wrench above the pedal. I just remember that when tightening a pedal the chain will be taut.

rumrunn6 12-30-16 07:25 AM

1 Attachment(s)
got curious & checked CL for tools found a decent vintage (70s) Zeus pedal wrench, 15mm at one end & 14mm (aka 9/16) at the other end. nice & skinny & long for leverage. bought it from someone who used to have a bike shop. met her in the parking lot of the local library this morning

bulldog1935 12-30-16 07:35 AM

Park tools headset wrench has a pedal wrench at the other end

I agree, you'll never remove pedals with an allen L-wrench.
I use an allen socket and breaker bar

the nice thing about this, is you can always get a one-hand grip on the crank arm for both loosening and tightening.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...aaP6010001.jpg


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