All the time now that I have gotten older it is worse. "Sorbothane" padded gloves were wonders and helped a great deal. Riding with drop bars gives more options for hand placement and riding the hoods was the best for recovert of feeling.

there are smart ways to set up any bar to make them fit properly.
Moustache is the classic love/hate bar - no one is ambivalent about them.
Mine are set up so that they are the reach benchmark and measurement reference for any bike I build - they're also my comfort benchmark.

I really like the Map bars on my upright. They have a natural relaxed hand position with sweep copied from the Jones H-bar.

https://oldglorymtb.com/round-up-alte...ke-handlebars/

Two things:

1. It's a quite common issue. It affects lots of riders. I know that because I see many of my riding friends shaking out their hands as they ride.

2. You're probably not going to like my solution. I mostly ride recumbents. Zero pressure on my hands and wrists. Zero tingling.

I have this problem.

I have found that Ergon grips help a lot, they force me to maintain better hand posture and create much less of a point pressure than standard round grips.

Cheers
TRJB

I have/had the problem. In my case diagnosed as carpal tunnel syndrome. Right hand was done in 2015. This year only my left hand had the problem.

Had surgery on the left side in November this year. Will try to report back once everything's healed up.

I have to reiterate the bike fit issue. Gloves, padded handlebars and all of that can be helpful but if the bike fit isn't perfect those gloves will never be a solution. A shorter or lnoger stem and the correct saddle distance and saddle tilt can be critical. During a professional bike fitting the fitter made multiple adjustments to the saddle tilt and told me I consistently reported a 3 degree difference as helpful. Raising or lowering the stem can be a huge difference too so bike fit is crucial. The other crucial thing is core strength. If your back is not strong and your fit is bad your weight is on your hands and that's not great. With a strong core (back and abs) you can have little weight on your hands so consider a good bike fitting and do core excercises. When you're out riding spend a bit of time trying to consciously hold your body up to take pressure off your hands and exercise that back. I agree that Ergon grips are great on mtn bikes almost regardless of everything else because sometimes your hands take a pounding no matter what. On road bikes changing hand positions frequently is also very helpful.

I tried to explain why padded gloves make it worse.
Gloves are to give you a place to land other than bare palms when you take a tumble (it's going to happen).

A long time ago I had an issue with my hands falling asleep and found that the tires were inflated to max pressure and it sent a slight vibration through the handle bars. I let about 10 psi out of them and the issue went away.

A resonate frequency, I get that from the gas hedger if I run it at full throttle.

As others have mentioned, don't jump into new grips, tape, bars, etc. until you have examined the basic ergonomics. Pay attention to your hand and wrist position as you ride, also take note of how much weight your hands are bearing.

IMHO the #1 cause of tingly hands is weak core muscles. If your core muscles aren't strong, the longer you ride the more you slouch and put pressure on your hands and maybe more torsional forces on your wrists. Poor bike fit can exacerbate this problem. While you are fresh on the bike, get into your normal, most comfortable riding position. Now lift your hands 1/4" (1 cm) off the bar and keep them hovering. If you have to shift your weight back or sit up more to keep your hands off the bar, then you have a core and/or bike fit problem. Correct this and the vast majority of hand problems go away. If you are new to cycling, do some core exercises and focus on conditioning. Don't fall into the trap of setting up your bike "like the pros". Don't "slam your stem" unless it actually suits your riding style and physical capabilities. You have to set up your bike for you, not for someone else's idealized concept.

If you have a strong core and pass the hovering over the bar test (ie. basic bike fit problems have been addressed) then look at other changes you can make. Start with the free/inexpensive and easy ones like tweeking bar or hood position. On my current road bike, the original bars were initially set up with a slight downward tilt on a slightly downsloping stem. When on the hoods, my wrists were cocked slightly downwards instead of being in a neutral position. The first change I made was to rotate the bars up a few degrees and moved the brifters up the curve of the bars less than a cm. Viola, no more wrist soreness. I later went to a neutral angle and slightly shorter stem with different bars and my comfort improved even more. So start with tweeking positions, moving spacers, etc. to get good wrist, elbow and shoulder positions.

I used to have a lot more problems with hand numbness/arm fatigue on my flatbar mutt. The fix there was to get a bar with just a bit of rise and sweep (I don't remember exactly but it isn' much), lopping off a cm or so from each end, and installing Ergon bar end grips. The Ergon grips had three advantages for me. They were larger than the original grips so they fit my hands better. They have a rest for the pads of my palms that I can adjust to keep my wrists in neutral alignment even when fatigued, and the ends give me more grip options so I can assume positions very similar to riding the tops or the hoods on my road bike.

Scooty Puff posted about the effect of tires and road vibration. When I started, narrow rims with 23mm tires pumped up to the max was the rule for roadies. Combine that with old school AL frames and the road buzz was a wrist killer. I now ride a cro-mo frame with CF fork and 25mm tires on wider rims on my road bike and 32mm tires on even wider rims on my mutt. On the mutt, I virtually float over rough roads that would have beat the crap out of me on my 1989 AL Trek 1500. If you have the frame clearance, going up a tire size and investing in some supple tires can make quite a difference with the slight weight penalty offset by improved rolling resistance and better comfort. Don't overinflate your tires either. The front tire can be run with a few pounds less than the rear if you aren't already doing so.

I like gloves but you must get ones that fit well and which take the pressure off the ulnar nerve. Just like picking a saddle for comfort, picking gloves isn't about the amount of cushion but rather its about proper design and personal fit.

If the problem persists, see a sports physiologist or physician who is familiar with cycling. Don't rely on your GP or Family Practice physician unless they have a background in cycling. Too many are quick to blame bicycles as the cause of the problem because they are so used to seeing injuries from weekend bike riders with problems from their ill-fitted and low quality WalMart specials. If the problem persists off the bike, then definitely get an appointment with an appropriate health professional.