Need valve
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Need valve
Hi!
I own a Specialized Stumpjumper FSR XC Pro, equipped with a Rockshox SID Hydrair XC Suspension Fork. These days, I noticed that it loses air quite fast, bottoming out only in a few hours after having been pumped. I asked a local bike shop for an opinion about why that happens, and the guy there told me that the valve is not suited to the fork, but improvised. He also told me that a suited valve for this type of fork is hard to find and that, if I wanted to fix the problem, I should buy another fork, given the fact that valves for this type are really hard to find.
I sought the internet a bit, and I found some versions of valves, but I'm not sure whether they're what I'm looking for or not. Some examples are of products from amazon, sram or chainreactioncycles, but unfortunately I cannot post the link to them. I will try to add a comment containing the links.
So, I thought of asking you guys for help. Do you happen to know what I need? Can I actually replace the valve, or do I have to entirely change the fork? Are the links even close to what I'm looking for? If not, what else am I looking for?
I'll also attach a picture of the actual fork and of the valve.
Thank you!!
I own a Specialized Stumpjumper FSR XC Pro, equipped with a Rockshox SID Hydrair XC Suspension Fork. These days, I noticed that it loses air quite fast, bottoming out only in a few hours after having been pumped. I asked a local bike shop for an opinion about why that happens, and the guy there told me that the valve is not suited to the fork, but improvised. He also told me that a suited valve for this type of fork is hard to find and that, if I wanted to fix the problem, I should buy another fork, given the fact that valves for this type are really hard to find.
I sought the internet a bit, and I found some versions of valves, but I'm not sure whether they're what I'm looking for or not. Some examples are of products from amazon, sram or chainreactioncycles, but unfortunately I cannot post the link to them. I will try to add a comment containing the links.
So, I thought of asking you guys for help. Do you happen to know what I need? Can I actually replace the valve, or do I have to entirely change the fork? Are the links even close to what I'm looking for? If not, what else am I looking for?
I'll also attach a picture of the actual fork and of the valve.
Thank you!!
#3
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Is it at all possible that the valve is OK, and the leak is related to all the rust at it's base?
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#5
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Looking at the photo, I suspect that the suggestion to replace the fork was based on the overall condition, rather than just the valve
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#7
Valve cores are often replaceable, and are pretty standard. So, if the core is leaking, then that would be a quick fix.
If the treads where the valve are screwed in are leaking, then some teflon pipe tape or goop might help.
#8
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Removing the fork from the bike, and using a bucket of water, one should be able to locate the leak.
Valve cores are often replaceable, and are pretty standard. So, if the core is leaking, then that would be a quick fix.
If the treads where the valve are screwed in are leaking, then some teflon pipe tape or goop might help.
Valve cores are often replaceable, and are pretty standard. So, if the core is leaking, then that would be a quick fix.
If the treads where the valve are screwed in are leaking, then some teflon pipe tape or goop might help.
Valve leaks are usually easy enough to repair, unless there's rust within the valve body, which would call for a replacement. If it's leaking at the base, that may be repairable with pipe dope, but it's still up to the OP to decide about the fork's overall condition and whether he's really looking to replace it anyway.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#9
Dirty Heathen

Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,323
Likes: 1,046
From: MC-778, 6250 fsw
Bikes: 1997 Cannondale, 1976 Bridgestone, 1998 SoftRide, 1989 Klein, 1989 Black Lightning #0033
The Hydra Air has the valve recessed in to the cap at the top of the fork leg. (took 45 seconds on google to find a picture of the fork as stock) This requires a shock pump, which is a small-volume, high-pressure pump, designed specifically to service air/oil shocks (I remember this from the MAG-21 days)
Shock pumps have a narrow, low profile chuck, designed to fit recessed fill valves.
It looks like the bike's prevous owner removed or drilled out the fork cap, and screwed in an external schrader valve fitting so a bicycle tire pump could be used to top off the air pressure.
Last edited by Ironfish653; 03-25-17 at 02:38 PM.
#10
Dirty Heathen

Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,323
Likes: 1,046
From: MC-778, 6250 fsw
Bikes: 1997 Cannondale, 1976 Bridgestone, 1998 SoftRide, 1989 Klein, 1989 Black Lightning #0033
......and the guy there told me that the valve is not suited to the fork, but improvised. He also told me that a suited valve for this type of fork is hard to find and that, if I wanted to fix the problem, I should buy another fork, given the fact that valves for this type are really hard to find....
The fill valve is only the end of the system seals and pistons that makes an air shock work. Dirt, wear, age, and other factors can make those seals wear out and fail. They require regular maintenance and periodic rebuilds.
Air/Oil shocks do not like to be dirty and neglected.
Rebuild kits and spare parts can be available, but usually only for the higher-end models, and only the last generation or so. I have a ~2006 Cannondale Headshok, that needs a rebuild, but there are almost no parts to be found.
You may be in the same situation. IF you can even find the parts, the fork may not be worth the time and cost to rebuild.
#11
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
It.s rather the paint of the fork that is falling off because of the water and rust, but I totally doubt that has anything to do with my problem
#12
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Um... so Specialized collaborated with Rockshox and decided to put this particular fork on this bike? I thought the previous owner actually chose the fork. I somehow assumed that the original model of the bike came with an original Specialized fork - but then again, I don.t really know much of the matter.
#13
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, TX
Bikes: 2016 Gunnar Roadie, 2010 Cannondale RZ140 4, 2014 Raleigh Tamland 1.0
Also are you only putting air in that right side stanchion? The SID Hydra Air has an air damper on the right and the air spring assembly on the left. This guy here is what you would need to pump up the SID Problem Solvers 1999 and 2000 Adapter > Accessories > Pumps & Inflation > Shock Pumps | Jenson USA. Either way, a fork that old probably needs new seals, fresh oil, complete rebuild, and that's providing its even worth doing to a fork in that condition.
#14
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Yeah, that's where the air goes.
What would the complete rebuild suppose? And.. excuse my ignorance, but how does it help the fork? Is it customary maintenance?
What would the complete rebuild suppose? And.. excuse my ignorance, but how does it help the fork? Is it customary maintenance?
#15
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Did you do a soap bubble test to see if it's leaking at the top or base of the valve?
Either way, it seems more likely that the leak is at the other end, namely at the piston O-ring which is a wearing part.
Either way, it seems more likely that the leak is at the other end, namely at the piston O-ring which is a wearing part.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#16
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 9,176
Likes: 653
From: Minas Ithil
Here's the service manual for the fork. I also have an FSR XC Pro.
https://my-sport.spb.ru/manual_1/1999...%20sl%20xl.pdf
https://my-sport.spb.ru/manual_1/1999...%20sl%20xl.pdf
#17
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, TX
Bikes: 2016 Gunnar Roadie, 2010 Cannondale RZ140 4, 2014 Raleigh Tamland 1.0
That fork requires air on both sides. The part with the bodged schrader valve sticking out is the Hydra Air damper. The left stanchion with the recessed schrader valve is the actual air spring. In fact, you might try unscrewing the valve from the right stanchion to see if it's just the pump adapter that I linked in my previous post.
A rebuild will include new o-ring seals, new dust wipers and foam rings, and fresh oil in the fork. A fork as old as yours, if it hasn't had a rebuild or oil change, might not even have much oil in it right now. I performed a rebuild on the same model fork a few weeks ago and it was almost completely dry, and badly in need of the service. Rockshox recommends an oil change ever 25 riding hours, and a full rebuild every 50-100 hours if memory serves.
A rebuild will include new o-ring seals, new dust wipers and foam rings, and fresh oil in the fork. A fork as old as yours, if it hasn't had a rebuild or oil change, might not even have much oil in it right now. I performed a rebuild on the same model fork a few weeks ago and it was almost completely dry, and badly in need of the service. Rockshox recommends an oil change ever 25 riding hours, and a full rebuild every 50-100 hours if memory serves.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Aquakitty
Bicycle Mechanics
0
04-02-15 06:22 PM








