Between Shimano BR-447 (basically OE Deore) and the Deore XT M8000?

Anyone own ths XTs that can speak to their performance?

The 447 are basically entry level hydraulic brakes, they're more for leisure and fitness type road riding. The xt8000 are much better, they're designed for serious MTB type downhill type riding, they shed heat better and come with ceramic pistons.

thanks...I am ok with overkill but you think overkill for my Carbon Sirrus expert? I want something that doesn't fade as much, I do some hills and get that feeling quite abit.

It's a toss up between SLX and XT, I figured for the extra $25 I'd get the XT.I already put Ice Techs on it and noticed a difference in stopping power looking to just swap out to higher end brakes altogether and finish that part of my mini build.

The two most important parts of a bike are brakes and tires, so I say that upgrading your brakes is never a bad thing. Is it over kill ? Probably but who cares ? I'm not someone to say it's not worth it, or you're spending to much because it's your bike, so modify it how you want. Plus I find its kind of fun buying bike parts and "personalizing" it, as you probably already know.

It's "overkill" until you overload your existing brakes on a steep descent and get killed.

this^^^...Honestly, this is a fast bike, there are times where I get going fast downhills but hold back some because I don't have confidence in the brakes. They stop indeed and feel ok, but when you get going they fade (mostly on road), and I do push this bike quite a bit. I thought maybe the rotors would solve it, but it's still there a bit and I want to address it.

Maybe because it's a Hybrid Specialized assumes everyone who will ride it is a sissy, but I've turned mine in CX style bike with an aggressive tire. I did 5 miles offroad (10 miles onroad) on Sunday and it was a total blast, but again, I feel like I need grabbier brakes in almost all situations, road/gravel.

Thanks for making the exact point that is sitting in the back of my mind. : )

Have you had the Ice Techs long enough to bed in on your rotors ? You should have plenty of stopping power with those pads and your brake set up. Clamping power isn't so much of an issue with brakes as heat dissipation is. If you feel like you're over riding your brakes to a point where they start to heat up and fade, you may want to also think of getting a larger front rotor (180mm) if your fork will fit it.

Honestly, probably not, so I should give it more rides. I have noticed a little improvement when I am out for a while. Like they heat up or the mineral oil warms up and they feel better. Those rotors definitely make a difference, less fade for sure. This bike has two 160s, where the pro has 160/140 in the rear. Which is odd, but maybe because on that bike the brake spec is with finned pads and M615s I think. Either way you bring up a good point.

Did you get new rotors too ? Yeah, you might need some more time to bed them in.

You might already do this so it might old news, but modulating the brakes going down a hill is important, don't ride down the hill holding the brake lever hard. You want to "pump" the brakes so you don't overheat them and glaze over the pads and rotors. I've been riding at night and have seen some guys coming down a trail overpass with their rotors glowing red, and wonder why their brakes don't work lol.

Haha! thats a riot! I believe it, Some of the hills I come down I am at a consistent 30 MPH, but yes I do modulate and pump the brakes for all the reasons your mentioned.

What about a metal pad do you think that might make a difference? Current are resin and the XTs come with metal pads. jo4cs. I am literally about to hit the order button..Lol

I'm a big believer in metallic pads, they can take higher heat, and they bed in on the rotor better. Only downfall is they can be really noisy when cold, but that just means they're working.

The XT M8000s are awesome brakes. Very firm lever feel and incredible control. All the power you need with one finger braking.

I've never needed anything other than the standard deore brakes that came on my Tokul 2. And I've ridden straight down Montana mountains.

This is why it's important to let OFF your brakes at points. Completely, not just "dragging them less." Completely let go of the brake lever. When I'm mountain biking, if I'm going down a steep and hairy section where I need to drag the brakes, I'll switch between my front and rear brake, only grabbing both when I need to stop quickly.

The funny thing is, to solve brake overheating problems the answer is to go faster and become a better rider, because they you brake less and in shorter spurts. It's the inexperienced people who drag their brakes down the hill who "need" better brakes.

as I mentioned earlier in the thread I do modulate and pump the brakes...Maybe you missed it.