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Chalk this one to ignorance
So now I bought this full carbon road bike it came with 700x23's I didn't like them ,have to carry too much pressure so I see on Craig's list two 700x28 I said hmm two gaterskins slicks like new $30.00 I went and bought them ,get home swap everything out the front fit good now back wheel when sitting all the way in the drop out tire hits the back triangle not bottom bracket but under seat width wise is ok , so I pull wheel out so I have about 1/8 inch clearance and tighten it up and it's fine now the question is it safe to ride?? I always thought that the size only effected the width of the tires not overall diameter,,,, dropouts are vertical,
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Originally Posted by Fastfingaz
(Post 20106771)
So now I bought this full carbon road bike it came with 700x23's I didn't like them ,have to carry too much pressure so I see on Craig's list two 700x28 I said hmm two gaterskins slicks like new $30.00 I went and bought them ,get home swap everything out the front fit good now back wheel when sitting all the way in the drop out tire hits the back triangle not bottom bracket but under seat width wise is ok , so I pull wheel out so I have about 1/8 inch clearance and tighten it up and it's fine now the question is it safe to ride?? I always thought that the size only effected the width of the tires not overall diameter,,,, dropouts are vertical,
Went back to 23mm. I use 25mm tires in the Master and the Bottecchia and can’t really the difference. Size affects width and height (diameter). |
Wider tires are taller too. You've found this out.
Wheels are meant to sit completely in vertical dropouts. Not only is this possibly unsafe, but probably you've also screwed up your shifting and braking. Sell or trade these tires and get some that fit. Sorry. |
You're squeezing a wider tire on the same rim that the smaller tire was on. Of course it's going to be taller, the rim width doesn't expand.
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Maybe why they were for sale.
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I'm going to swap everything back tomorrow,,,, maybe someone will buy the 28's from me ,,,, I hate the 23's
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Originally Posted by Fastfingaz
(Post 20106876)
I'm going to swap everything back tomorrow,,,, maybe someone will buy the 28's from me ,,,, I hate the 23's
If the 28mm tire fits ok on the front and you prefer the wider tire then I'd leave that one alone and just switch back to the narrower tire on the rear where you have a clearance issue. |
Yes I suppose I could do that,,, just change the back one,,,
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You might also measure. I know some tires run wider than their listed width, and different tires are taller, too.
I have a Panasonic RibMo on one bike that has to be a quarter-inch taller than the Schwalbe of the same width i have on the rear (actually, both are listed 23 but the Panasonic is narrower, too.) I have some 28-mm Conti Ultrasports which don't seem to be any taller, but are about 30 mm wide, and some Maxxis Padrones which are an actual 28 mm .... so possibly you could try Conti Ultraposrts or GP 4000 in 25, which on a lot of rims seem to be about 28 mm wide, but no taller than most other tires .... and maybe they will fit. I know I have seen actual widths posted online for different tires ... maybe someone lists actual diameters too? As for dropping the wheel in the dropouts? On a carbon bike, that would mean using Enormous pressure on the quick-release or wheel nuts, which would be tremendous stress on the dropout ears .... when the compression stress is spread over the whole dropout and the vertical stress is borne by the axle housing pressing against the whole dropout a full half-circle and not the wheels nuts pressing on a tiny portion of the otherwise unsupported ears .... Wedge one index finger all the way into the junction between you first two finger of one hand and shake it around. Then try to hold that finger between the very end of those two fingers. You snap those ears off at speed and the wheel sucks up the derailleur and jams against the frame and folds up like a jelly roll and you get to sample the local pavement ..... Try 25s, try measuring ... try tubeless, which allows you to run lower pressures without risking pinch flats. You can get away with playing with how far you insert the wheel with a steel frame and solid wheel nuts. Most quick-release units have plastic cams .... and CF frames take stress Only in certain directions. Better toe bite the bullet and buy new tires than to eat the pavement and never ride again. |
Originally Posted by Maelochs
(Post 20107156)
You might also measure. I know some tires run wider than their listed width, and different tires are taller, too.
I have a Panasonic RibMo on one bike that has to be a quarter-inch taller than the Schwalbe of the same width i have on the rear (actually, both are listed 23 but the Panasonic is narrower, too.) I have some 28-mm Conti Ultrasports which don't seem to be any taller, but are about 30 mm wide, and some Maxxis Padrones which are an actual 28 mm .... so possibly you could try Conti Ultraposrts or GP 4000 in 25, which on a lot of rims seem to be about 28 mm wide, but no taller than most other tires .... and maybe they will fit. I know I have seen actual widths posted online for different tires ... maybe someone lists actual diameters too? As for dropping the wheel in the dropouts? On a carbon bike, that would mean using Enormous pressure on the quick-release or wheel nuts, which would be tremendous stress on the dropout ears .... when the compression stress is spread over the whole dropout and the vertical stress is borne by the axle housing pressing against the whole dropout a full half-circle and not the wheels nuts pressing on a tiny portion of the otherwise unsupported ears .... Wedge one index finger all the way into the junction between you first two finger of one hand and shake it around. Then try to hold that finger between the very end of those two fingers. You snap those ears off at speed and the wheel sucks up the derailleur and jams against the frame and folds up like a jelly roll and you get to sample the local pavement ..... Try 25s, try measuring ... try tubeless, which allows you to run lower pressures without risking pinch flats. You can get away with playing with how far you insert the wheel with a steel frame and solid wheel nuts. Most quick-release units have plastic cams .... and CF frames take stress Only in certain directions. Better toe bite the bullet and buy new tires than to eat the pavement and never ride again. |
The right answer, of course, is to buy another bike that would fit those tires. I'm shocked no one has mentioned this. C'mon, people!
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Originally Posted by mcours2006
(Post 20107439)
The right answer, of course, is to buy another bike that would fit those tires. I'm shocked no one has mentioned this. C'mon, people!
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Originally Posted by Lazyass
(Post 20106836)
You're squeezing a wider tire on the same rim that the smaller tire was on. Of course it's going to be taller, the rim width doesn't expand.
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Bummer on the tires not fitting but two for $30 sounds like you won't lose money.
I went from 23 to 25 Contis (gatorskin rear, 4 season front) and the different was impressive. You might just be happy with 25. Whataren't you liking about the 23's? Biggest change for me was the front, taking corners much faster and with better stability. Road harshness was decreased quite a bit as well. |
Originally Posted by rumrunn6
(Post 20107494)
so a wider rim would spread the tire more, resulting in a smaller diameter?
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Originally Posted by GrainBrain
(Post 20107512)
Bummer on the tires not fitting but two for $30 sounds like you won't lose money.
I went from 23 to 25 Contis (gatorskin rear, 4 season front) and the different was impressive. You might just be happy with 25. Whataren't you liking about the 23's? Biggest change for me was the front, taking corners much faster and with better stability. Road harshness was decreased quite a bit as well. |
Originally Posted by Fastfingaz
(Post 20107611)
Well after all this I think I'm starting to like the 23's,,,
You've come to your senses. There's not a damned thing in the world wrong with those 23s, though people will try to gaslight you on a regular basis. |
Originally Posted by Scarbo
(Post 20107617)
:thumb:
You've come to your senses. There's not a damned thing in the world wrong with those 23s, though people will try to gaslight you on a regular basis. |
Originally Posted by Lazyass
(Post 20107565)
Yes. Just take a tire, pull the beads apart and then push them together. See what the tire does. It's simple physics.
A 28 mm tire should fit anywhere from a 15mm to 19mm rim without reservation. I doubt you see more than a mm of diameter change in those ranges. |
Originally Posted by Iride01
(Post 20107637)
Sure, but you only see the significant differences at the extremes were anyone would obviously see that the tire is not the right size for the rim.
A 28 mm tire should fit anywhere from a 15mm to 19mm rim without reservation. I doubt you see more than a mm of diameter change in those ranges. |
One of the biggest mistakes I made in my cycling "education" was to try to follow the pros with skinny tires, slammed stems, and super stiff non-compliant "racing geometry" type frames.
It took me longer than it should have to realize that riding is a lot more fun on an endurance type frame (compliant, comfortable position) with wide puncture resistant tires. You can ride a bike configured like that on any paved road, no matter how badly maintained, and even in most off-road situations (you will have to take it slower than on a mountain bike) and it's fun! |
Originally Posted by Lazyass
(Post 20107645)
...the tire measures 38c on it but it's pretty tall. If I mounted it on a 22mm rim it would probably measure 42c but the diameter would be smaller.
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Larger tires are wider and taller. Rim width will have some effect on this as well. I love 28mm, rolls like a dream on choppy pavement. Maybe try 25mm?
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Originally Posted by SouthFLpix
(Post 20108038)
One of the biggest mistakes I made in my cycling "education" was to try to follow the pros with skinny tires, slammed stems, and super stiff non-compliant "racing geometry" type frames.
It took me longer than it should have to realize that riding is a lot more fun on an endurance type frame (compliant, comfortable position) with wide puncture resistant tires. You can ride a bike configured like that on any paved road, no matter how badly maintained, and even in most off-road situations (you will have to take it slower than on a mountain bike) and it's fun! |
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