![]() |
One grease for all??
Is there only one kind of grease that I can put on all parts of the bike when you disassemble and assemble or are there certain greases for certain parts? If you click a video below, skip to the time(0:21), you will see this person putting grease inside the crankset(is this the right word?)
|
It's a good idea to put a little grease on the threads when you reassemble any threaded parts. In the video he was threading the bottom bracket into the bottom bracket shell. It keeps them from corroding and seizing up. Also good to put some grease on your seatpost to keep it from seizing. I always have a tube of Park Tool Polylube 1000. I use it for thread lubricant, spoke nipples, and hubs. There may be better options out there, but they have it at my lbs and it seems to work fine for me. A tube lasts me a long time. The only other lube I use (other than chain lube) is Phil Wood's tenacious oil. I drip some of that into my freewheel body after cleaning it.
|
Use the right lubricant for the job. If that means one product then great. If that means multiple products then that's OK too.
Products used for steel components may not be compatible with carbon and some lubricants will destroy rubber seals. Always read the manual. |
I use Park Tool Polylube 1000 for all grease applications except the seatpost, and for that I use cheap $5 / pint auto grease.
But my bike is relatively simple and I'm not a high performance biker. |
White Lightning- clear grease meaning no dye coloring which can stain light colored paint. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...384a5ad82.jpeg |
Don't know about grease, but NFS is the best chain lube, by far. :innocent:
|
I find this too light. It washes away too easily. Not tenacious enough.
All White Lightning products are the same way. They wash away very easily.
Originally Posted by Patriot1
(Post 20521308)
White Lightning- clear grease meaning no dye coloring which can stain light colored paint. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...384a5ad82.jpeg |
I use Phil Wood's green water proof grease for every thing except the chain. Been using it 40 years. Never had any equipment failure because of, nor lack of, Phil's grease.
Jon |
Automotive wheel bearing/general purpose grease has served me very well... No need to buy overpriced bicycle specific grease.
|
Originally Posted by TimothyH
(Post 20521555)
I find this too light. It washes away too easily. Not tenacious enough.
All White Lightning products are the same way. They wash away very easily. Interesting thoughts. I have not found this to be true. I used white white lightning to grease a bottom bracket and have had no issues. Also I have used on pedal threads, no issues. |
Given that my bikes contain no exotic materials, "one grease for all" consists of the marine bearing grease that I will probably never run out of.
|
Originally Posted by Gresp15C
(Post 20521838)
Given that my bikes contain no exotic materials, "one grease for all" consists of the marine bearing grease that I will probably never run out of.
Stem, seatpost, bearings, bolts, even cage bolts. Caution, the marine grease I use is blue so wipe off any excess or it could possibly stain if left to sit. |
Originally Posted by clengman
(Post 20521101)
It's a good idea to put a little grease on the threads when you reassemble any threaded parts. In the video he was threading the bottom bracket into the bottom bracket shell. It keeps them from corroding and seizing up. Also good to put some grease on your seatpost to keep it from seizing. I always have a tube of Park Tool Polylube 1000. I use it for thread lubricant, spoke nipples, and hubs. There may be better options out there, but they have it at my lbs and it seems to work fine for me. A tube lasts me a long time. The only other lube I use (other than chain lube) is Phil Wood's tenacious oil. I drip some of that into my freewheel body after cleaning it.
|
Originally Posted by 2pedals5
(Post 20522170)
I got questions to ask you. Now I'm grateful you took the time to explain it nicely. But you mentioned some words that I'm not aware of...in the part where you're telling me to lube the seatpost to keep from seizing up...could you elaborate that please? And you said to put grease on threaded part..why do I need to put grease on them if they are threaded with another part that (theoretical would never remove or slip. even if with grease it may?) I'm trying to understand WHY we need grease and lube on threaded parts. I can understand if its prevent from rust?
|
Originally Posted by clengman
(Post 20522194)
The grease will prevent rust and corrosion and make parts easier to disassemble if needed. It's counterintuitive, but if threads are clean and lubricated before assembly it also makes the parts hold together better. Dry or dirty threads can bind as you tighten them and you won't get even tension across the threads. Clean lubricated threads tighten more evenly and completely.
|
Originally Posted by 2pedals5
(Post 20522201)
Thank you so much. Apprrciated the explanation!
|
Regular grease is for lubricating wear surfaces you can directly access and that you want to reduce friction of. For example threads, bearings etc. I use boat trailer grease because it is cheap and water doesn't displace it well. Don't sweat the specific brand, we talk about bicycles and not high temperature and high rpm applications like automotive or aviation etc. Use a light-colored grease so you can see if it got dirty.
Oil is used where you can't access the wearing surface and the oil needs to wick to the are requiring lubrication. Examples include the chain. Surfaces that require MORE friction use an assembly grease. It basically is a regular grease (for corrosion protection) that has grit included to INCREASE friction. Sometimes this paste is called assembly or carbon paste. Seatposts and stems are examples of use. Never ever mix up assembly and regular grease. |
Originally Posted by indyfabz
(Post 20521442)
Don't know about grease, but NFS is the best chain lube, by far. :innocent:
|
Originally Posted by Jon T
(Post 20521566)
I use Phil Wood's green water proof grease for every thing except the chain. Been using it 40 years. Never had any equipment failure because of, nor lack of, Phil's grease.
Jon |
Originally Posted by herrkaleun
(Post 20522264)
i use boat trailer grease because it is cheap and water doesn't displace it well. Don't sweat the specific brand, we talk about bicycles and not high temperature and high rpm applications like automotive or aviation etc. Use a light-colored grease so you can see if it got dirty.
|
Originally Posted by jefnvk
(Post 20522298)
+1
Bonus, I use it on my trailers too :) |
Originally Posted by 2pedals5
(Post 20522278)
what is NFS?
|
Originally Posted by 2pedals5
(Post 20522278)
what is NFS?
Originally Posted by indyfabz
(Post 20522565)
Google is your friend.
I really get tired of the forced attempts at snarky wit. If you're not interested in helping someone, why bother posting anything at all? I like Phil Wood grease, especially for cup and cone hubs...though others might be preferable for certain applications. |
Originally Posted by Gresp15C
(Post 20521838)
Given that my bikes contain no exotic materials, "one grease for all" consists of the marine bearing grease that I will probably never run out of.
|
Originally Posted by 2pedals5
(Post 20522278)
what is NFS?
Network file system Not further specified Not for sure National Forest Service Numb finger syndrome Yep, [MENTION=186391]indyfabz[/MENTION], Google is a "real" friend. |
| All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:26 AM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.