One grease for all??
#1
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One grease for all??
Is there only one kind of grease that I can put on all parts of the bike when you disassemble and assemble or are there certain greases for certain parts? If you click a video below, skip to the time(0:21), you will see this person putting grease inside the crankset(is this the right word?)
#2
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '73 Schwinn World Voyageur, '98 Nishiki BSO
It's a good idea to put a little grease on the threads when you reassemble any threaded parts. In the video he was threading the bottom bracket into the bottom bracket shell. It keeps them from corroding and seizing up. Also good to put some grease on your seatpost to keep it from seizing. I always have a tube of Park Tool Polylube 1000. I use it for thread lubricant, spoke nipples, and hubs. There may be better options out there, but they have it at my lbs and it seems to work fine for me. A tube lasts me a long time. The only other lube I use (other than chain lube) is Phil Wood's tenacious oil. I drip some of that into my freewheel body after cleaning it.
#3
- Soli Deo Gloria -
Joined: Aug 2015
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From: Northwest Georgia
Bikes: 2018 Rodriguez Custom Fixed Gear, 2017 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2015 Bianchi Pista, 2002 Fuji Robaix
Use the right lubricant for the job. If that means one product then great. If that means multiple products then that's OK too.
Products used for steel components may not be compatible with carbon and some lubricants will destroy rubber seals.
Always read the manual.
Products used for steel components may not be compatible with carbon and some lubricants will destroy rubber seals.
Always read the manual.
#4
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From: San Diego, California
Bikes: Velo Orange Piolet
I use Park Tool Polylube 1000 for all grease applications except the seatpost, and for that I use cheap $5 / pint auto grease.
But my bike is relatively simple and I'm not a high performance biker.
But my bike is relatively simple and I'm not a high performance biker.
#7
- Soli Deo Gloria -
Joined: Aug 2015
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From: Northwest Georgia
Bikes: 2018 Rodriguez Custom Fixed Gear, 2017 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2015 Bianchi Pista, 2002 Fuji Robaix
#8
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From: West Orange County, CA
Bikes: '84 Peugeot PH10LE
I use Phil Wood's green water proof grease for every thing except the chain. Been using it 40 years. Never had any equipment failure because of, nor lack of, Phil's grease.
Jon
Jon
#10
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Bikes: (2) 2019 Specialized Roll Sports, 1992 Merlin Road Ti, 1986 Schwinn Peloton, 2 Trek 920’s,
Interesting thoughts. I have not found this to be true. I used white white lightning to grease a bottom bracket and have had no issues. Also I have used on pedal threads, no issues.
#12
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From: Heart Of Texas
Bikes: '85, '86 , '87 , '88 , '89 Centurion Dave Scott Ironman.
Stem, seatpost, bearings, bolts, even cage bolts.
Caution, the marine grease I use is blue so wipe off any excess or it could possibly stain if left to sit.
Last edited by texaspandj; 08-23-18 at 08:04 AM.
#13
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It's a good idea to put a little grease on the threads when you reassemble any threaded parts. In the video he was threading the bottom bracket into the bottom bracket shell. It keeps them from corroding and seizing up. Also good to put some grease on your seatpost to keep it from seizing. I always have a tube of Park Tool Polylube 1000. I use it for thread lubricant, spoke nipples, and hubs. There may be better options out there, but they have it at my lbs and it seems to work fine for me. A tube lasts me a long time. The only other lube I use (other than chain lube) is Phil Wood's tenacious oil. I drip some of that into my freewheel body after cleaning it.
#14
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Joined: Aug 2014
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '73 Schwinn World Voyageur, '98 Nishiki BSO
I got questions to ask you. Now I'm grateful you took the time to explain it nicely. But you mentioned some words that I'm not aware of...in the part where you're telling me to lube the seatpost to keep from seizing up...could you elaborate that please? And you said to put grease on threaded part..why do I need to put grease on them if they are threaded with another part that (theoretical would never remove or slip. even if with grease it may?) I'm trying to understand WHY we need grease and lube on threaded parts. I can understand if its prevent from rust?
#15
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The grease will prevent rust and corrosion and make parts easier to disassemble if needed. It's counterintuitive, but if threads are clean and lubricated before assembly it also makes the parts hold together better. Dry or dirty threads can bind as you tighten them and you won't get even tension across the threads. Clean lubricated threads tighten more evenly and completely.
#17
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From: Madison, WI
Bikes: Giant Toughroad SLR1 and Motobecane Sturgis NX
Regular grease is for lubricating wear surfaces you can directly access and that you want to reduce friction of. For example threads, bearings etc. I use boat trailer grease because it is cheap and water doesn't displace it well. Don't sweat the specific brand, we talk about bicycles and not high temperature and high rpm applications like automotive or aviation etc. Use a light-colored grease so you can see if it got dirty.
Oil is used where you can't access the wearing surface and the oil needs to wick to the are requiring lubrication. Examples include the chain.
Surfaces that require MORE friction use an assembly grease. It basically is a regular grease (for corrosion protection) that has grit included to INCREASE friction. Sometimes this paste is called assembly or carbon paste. Seatposts and stems are examples of use. Never ever mix up assembly and regular grease.
Oil is used where you can't access the wearing surface and the oil needs to wick to the are requiring lubrication. Examples include the chain.
Surfaces that require MORE friction use an assembly grease. It basically is a regular grease (for corrosion protection) that has grit included to INCREASE friction. Sometimes this paste is called assembly or carbon paste. Seatposts and stems are examples of use. Never ever mix up assembly and regular grease.
#19
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#20
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From: Metro Detroit/AA
Bikes: 2016 Novara Mazama
i use boat trailer grease because it is cheap and water doesn't displace it well. Don't sweat the specific brand, we talk about bicycles and not high temperature and high rpm applications like automotive or aviation etc. Use a light-colored grease so you can see if it got dirty.
#23
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It would've been just as easy to answer the question as type "Google is your friend."
I really get tired of the forced attempts at snarky wit. If you're not interested in helping someone, why bother posting anything at all?
I like Phil Wood grease, especially for cup and cone hubs...though others might be preferable for certain applications.
I really get tired of the forced attempts at snarky wit. If you're not interested in helping someone, why bother posting anything at all?
I like Phil Wood grease, especially for cup and cone hubs...though others might be preferable for certain applications.
#24
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