Steel or aluminum bicycle frame?
01-10-19, 11:01 AM
#51
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I rode steel road bikes (Reynolds or Columbus) exclusively from 1965 to 2000; aluminum exclusively since then. My only regret is that I didn't buy any Cannondales on employee discount when I still worked at a dealership.
01-12-19, 10:44 AM
#53
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Bikes: 1964 Legnano Roma Olympiade, 1973 Raleigh Super Course, 1978 Raleigh Super Course, 1978 Peugeot PR10, 2002 Specialized Allez, 2007 Specialized Roubaix, 2013 Culprit Croz Blade
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I have 3 steel vintage bikes that I love. I have an Aluminum Allez that I hated till I changed to an Easton carbon fork. Love it now. You didn't ask, but carbon is cool too. On the road, the differences aren't that big a deal. I run my tires pretty hard, being a 200 lb. rider. The steel rides a little better, but I most notice the differences when I load the bike into my hatchback. Carbon easy, aluminum, not too bad, steel, heavy. On the road it's all good.😀 Best solution, get one of each, best if all worlds.
Last edited by Slightspeed; 01-12-19 at 10:50 AM.
01-12-19, 11:32 AM
#54
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The Koga company in NL has frame welded and then post welding filed the bead smooth on the visually noticed joints (Not around the BB)
they used 7005 aluminum alloys then had several heat treatment processes applied , before they applied the paint
I have many more steel TIG welded bikes and some brazed together , and individual person can make a steel bike frame
I have done so myself .. with fairly simple tools..
...
they used 7005 aluminum alloys then had several heat treatment processes applied , before they applied the paint
I have many more steel TIG welded bikes and some brazed together , and individual person can make a steel bike frame
I have done so myself .. with fairly simple tools..
...
01-12-19, 08:12 PM
#55
Senior Member
Steel. I have a house on the beach in Kamakura, and things rust or corrode quickly there. For some reason, quality steel resists the salt air better than aluminum (crap steel in a Chinese Schwinn does not, I know this the hard way). I thought carbon would be less susceptible, but the seat post in my Kestrel became firmly stuck when it become corroded and bonded to the seat tube, whereas on my old C40, the opposite happened, corrosion of the aluminum dropouts cause them to loosen up in the rear triangle.
A steel frame with some "Frame Saver" inside seems to last pretty much forever.
A steel frame with some "Frame Saver" inside seems to last pretty much forever.
01-12-19, 08:26 PM
#56
Senior Member
I have both and much prefer steel. It doesn't start to creak over time. My 4 year old Kona mountain bike that I've barely ridden is starting to do the infamous aluminum creak now. Drives me nuts. I like quiet bikes. Any sound that isn't "normal" makes me nuts.
If you take care of a quality steel bike, meaning keep it clean and dry, it will last darn near forever. My 1987 Pinarello Montello's paint and decals look terrible but there's no rust inside or outside. I know, I check it yearly when I over-haul bearings. At 32 years old it is still a strong riding bike. Still nimble, still fast, still sturdy and still QUIET!
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If you take care of a quality steel bike, meaning keep it clean and dry, it will last darn near forever. My 1987 Pinarello Montello's paint and decals look terrible but there's no rust inside or outside. I know, I check it yearly when I over-haul bearings. At 32 years old it is still a strong riding bike. Still nimble, still fast, still sturdy and still QUIET!
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Last edited by drlogik; 01-12-19 at 08:30 PM.
