Lifespan of chain rings, sprockets, etc. ...
03-29-19, 08:53 PM
#26
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03-29-19, 09:38 PM
#27
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When to replace parts:
Chain replacement => When the chain stretches more than 1/16" over a 12" segment.
Cassette replacement => When the chain jumps under load after installation of a new chain.
Chainring replacement => When you get "chainsuck" after installation of a new chain.
A mild case of chainsuck is a noisy rattling as the chain tries to stick to the backside of the chainring, but the RD tugs it off.
A severe case of chainsuck is when the chain sticks to the backside of the chainring and get rammed up into the underside of the FD.
Chain replacement => When the chain stretches more than 1/16" over a 12" segment.
Cassette replacement => When the chain jumps under load after installation of a new chain.
Chainring replacement => When you get "chainsuck" after installation of a new chain.
A mild case of chainsuck is a noisy rattling as the chain tries to stick to the backside of the chainring, but the RD tugs it off.
A severe case of chainsuck is when the chain sticks to the backside of the chainring and get rammed up into the underside of the FD.
03-30-19, 04:30 AM
#28
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Look at a new replacement chainring, all teeth on a new ring are not created equal. This link https://www.rosebikes.ie/shimano-tia...inring-2656271 is to a new Tiaga ring. The site has a zoom feature allowing a close up look.
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03-30-19, 05:53 AM
#29
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Strange how your big rear ring looks worn compared to the others. Is that an illusion or are you in that big ring a lot? 3k miles is chain area, not normally cassette.
Last edited by u235; 03-30-19 at 05:57 AM.
03-30-19, 10:02 PM
#30
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Look at a new replacement chainring, all teeth on a new ring are not created equal. This link https://www.rosebikes.ie/shimano-tia...inring-2656271 is to a new Tiaga ring. The site has a zoom feature allowing a close up look.
03-31-19, 08:49 AM
#31
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Cassette replacement => When the chain jumps under load after installation of a new chain.
Chainring replacement => When you get "chainsuck" after installation of a new chain.
A mild case of chainsuck is a noisy rattling as the chain tries to stick to the backside of the chainring, but the RD tugs it off.
A severe case of chainsuck is when the chain sticks to the backside of the chainring and get rammed up into the underside of the FD.
A mild case of chainsuck is a noisy rattling as the chain tries to stick to the backside of the chainring, but the RD tugs it off.
A severe case of chainsuck is when the chain sticks to the backside of the chainring and get rammed up into the underside of the FD.
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03-31-19, 09:00 AM
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I, too, see nothing wrong with your chainring. The teeth that seem to be “sharkfinned” are right at the lift pin (the silver dot at about 8 o’clock). That’s a design feature, not a bug. The teeth around the lift pins are shaped differently to aid in shifting. You may see some flattened teeth at near those pins as well. Again, that is a feature.
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Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
03-31-19, 09:10 AM
#33
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Nope. Especially with aluminum rings. A bad shift can damage a tooth on a chainring which causes the chain to hang onto the ring longer than it should resulting in the chain being “sucked” upward. A worn ring is going to be thinner and less likely to hang onto the chain. Chainrings that are sharkfinned should be replaced but one that is sucking the chain should be examined for tooth damage and the burr should be filed off. It really doesn’t need replacement.
But this reminds me of another reason that has caused me to replace two chainrings over the past few years:
Worn pickup pins/rivets on the backside of a 48T chainring on a Shimano 4-bolt mtn crankset.
The first time it happened I was baffled on why it had become nearly impossible to shift up onto the large ring.
Examination showed the pins had worn to rounded edges.
So I tried replacing the ring and the problem was solved immediately.
Annoying part was having to replace a ring with perfectly good teeth.
03-31-19, 09:45 AM
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Great advice here. Fwiw I'd just replace the chain, it's cheap. Also it's one less thing to clean. I just replaced my 8 speed chain after about 5k miles and it had stretched to the replacement point. I had cleaned it at 3k miles but I think I'll just replace it next time, it only costs $8.
Now speaking of cleaning...
Do yourself a favor and buy a bottle of WD-40, a generic spritzer bottle, a small stiff brush, and a small bottle of Tri-Flow. Get some old rags, cut up old t shirts work great.
Pop the old chain off, and clean the rings and cassette with the WD-40. Take care to not get any on the brake rotors, wipe them down with alcohol before you reinstall. Wipe down the rear derailleur jockey wheels, and hit the RD pivot points with TriFlow.
I do this every 3,000 miles on my road bike. I'll go to my local co-op as I have a small apartment and this is a dirty job!
Now speaking of cleaning...
Do yourself a favor and buy a bottle of WD-40, a generic spritzer bottle, a small stiff brush, and a small bottle of Tri-Flow. Get some old rags, cut up old t shirts work great.
Pop the old chain off, and clean the rings and cassette with the WD-40. Take care to not get any on the brake rotors, wipe them down with alcohol before you reinstall. Wipe down the rear derailleur jockey wheels, and hit the RD pivot points with TriFlow.
I do this every 3,000 miles on my road bike. I'll go to my local co-op as I have a small apartment and this is a dirty job!
03-31-19, 07:13 PM
#35
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I appreciate all the great advice. Good discussion. I had the chain replaced and the drive train cleaned today at LBS. Haven't ridden the bike yet, but probably will go 30 miles tomorrow, so that should tell me plenty. I also went 48 miles on the old chain yesterday and don't recall any shifting issues, so that's more evidence that the chain ring and cassette don't need replacing for a while. Also will heed advice on learning how to do this maintenance myself.
03-31-19, 07:52 PM
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I have never seen any correlation to wear and shifting performance.
Wear manifests its self when pedaling under load, as either:
a) Chain jumping on cassette.
b) Chainsuck on chainring.
03-31-19, 10:16 PM
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Being somewhat new to this, I'm not sure what chain jumping on the cassette is. Do you mean the chain shifting gears on its own, aka ghost shifting?
03-31-19, 10:20 PM
#38
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The chain remains on the same cog, but when you press hard on the pedals, it lifts off the cog teeth and jumps the distance of one tooth, then re-engages the cog.
03-31-19, 10:25 PM
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Here is a video of a new chain jumping on worn-out cassette:
04-01-19, 06:30 AM
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chain ring (front) never, of course I'm only riding 5k-6k miles a year for the past 10 years
rear cassette, a few times, and chains much more often
sounds like a slow day/month whatever at the shop and they need to make some money and keep the workers busy. They are banking on you not knowing that these "repairs" may be un necessary
rear cassette, a few times, and chains much more often
sounds like a slow day/month whatever at the shop and they need to make some money and keep the workers busy. They are banking on you not knowing that these "repairs" may be un necessary
04-01-19, 07:13 AM
#41
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Here is a video of a new chain jumping on worn-out cassette:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0GYF4cVuPE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0GYF4cVuPE
04-01-19, 07:17 AM
#42
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You won't be able to reproduce that on a work-stand.
