Talk to me about Unicycles
#1
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Talk to me about Unicycles
I don't know how to ride one. I can probably learn.
My thoughts are to use one when my boys (currently 3 and 1) are figuring out how to ride. So it would be on epic adventures such as around the block and to the park.
No mountain unicycing, no centuries. Literally just messing around close to the house.
I like the looks of the 24" ones on Amazon. Sounds like a total POS but would I need more? Let's say a budget of $150 and no local Unicylery to test drive (LUS?)
It seems that a wheel 20" or larger is best for adults. Where is the sweet spot? I'm 5'8" and ride a 54cm bike traditionally, if that changes the calculation. 31" inseam.
Quite aware that I'll just fall a lot for a while. But I've got some time to learn.
My thoughts are to use one when my boys (currently 3 and 1) are figuring out how to ride. So it would be on epic adventures such as around the block and to the park.
No mountain unicycing, no centuries. Literally just messing around close to the house.
I like the looks of the 24" ones on Amazon. Sounds like a total POS but would I need more? Let's say a budget of $150 and no local Unicylery to test drive (LUS?)
It seems that a wheel 20" or larger is best for adults. Where is the sweet spot? I'm 5'8" and ride a 54cm bike traditionally, if that changes the calculation. 31" inseam.
Quite aware that I'll just fall a lot for a while. But I've got some time to learn.
#2
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I have a 24 inch, and it is a nice size for general riding, but, a 20 inch is easier to learn things like idling. I still want a 20 inch for tricks and that type of thing. I used mine for simply riding, and it will cover more distance quicker than a 20 inch. Of course I want a bigger one as well. Wheel size on a unicycle is more about "gearing," a larger wheel will travel more distance per revolution than a smaller one. A smaller one, and for an adult I really wouldn't go smaller than a 20 inch, is nicer for trick riding, freestyle.
There is nothing wrong with starting with a 20 inch, it can simplify things for you. For the type of riding you ant to do though, a 24 inch would be fine. Go to https://www.unicycle.com/home/ and look there. There is a lot of good information, and they sell a variety of unicycles. I have dealt with them for years. They have beginner models on up. I would trust them much more than anything on Amazon, unless you know what you are looking at.
There is nothing wrong with starting with a 20 inch, it can simplify things for you. For the type of riding you ant to do though, a 24 inch would be fine. Go to https://www.unicycle.com/home/ and look there. There is a lot of good information, and they sell a variety of unicycles. I have dealt with them for years. They have beginner models on up. I would trust them much more than anything on Amazon, unless you know what you are looking at.
Last edited by phughes; 11-08-20 at 08:40 PM.
#3
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I got a 20" Avenier and then a 24" Sun Unicycle. Both were inexpensive. Both held up well for hundreds of miles. I then moved on to bigger and better.
The 20" might be a better choice for riding with young children.
I'm 5'8" and the seat post on the 20" is near the top limit.
A more expensive Nimbus II from unicycle.com will be lighter and more durable.
The key to learning is KEEP AT IT. Dont give up. You will fail repeatedly, but also gradually build the core strength and muscle memory to ride. Use the same formula for learning freemounting, idling, hopping...etc.
There are many good tutorials on YouTube for all of that.
The 20" might be a better choice for riding with young children.
I'm 5'8" and the seat post on the 20" is near the top limit.
A more expensive Nimbus II from unicycle.com will be lighter and more durable.
The key to learning is KEEP AT IT. Dont give up. You will fail repeatedly, but also gradually build the core strength and muscle memory to ride. Use the same formula for learning freemounting, idling, hopping...etc.
There are many good tutorials on YouTube for all of that.
#4
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I learned on a “Club” brand from unicycle.com. I started on a 20”, but I think that 24 is a good sweet spot for learning as well as other pursuits. Although it is easiest to learn on a 20”, you will quickly want to go to a larger wheel. Think about it - you are literally riding a 20 gear-inch bike. Your max speed is a moderate walking pace.
I second the advice to keep at it. The general rule of thumb is that it will take about 8-10 hours of deliberate practice before you can ride a few pedal rotations. Once you can turn the pedals over about three or four rotations, you will progress very quickly to “as far as I want”. Your goal for the first 30 minutes is to just sit without dislocating a shoulder or elbow. You will see what I mean.
Try to find a flat spot with a rail that you can hold on to. That worked for me as well as for my daughter. Definitely report back with progress.
I second the advice to keep at it. The general rule of thumb is that it will take about 8-10 hours of deliberate practice before you can ride a few pedal rotations. Once you can turn the pedals over about three or four rotations, you will progress very quickly to “as far as I want”. Your goal for the first 30 minutes is to just sit without dislocating a shoulder or elbow. You will see what I mean.
Try to find a flat spot with a rail that you can hold on to. That worked for me as well as for my daughter. Definitely report back with progress.
#5
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At 5'8" you probably want to start with a 20". That's the standard learner model anyway. But watch the used market a 24" would work too and little reason to pay new prices for a learner model. Also check for any clubs or enthusiasts in your area, sometimes people will loan them out or sell them on for a song to encourage others. The fair price for a used learner uni is around $50.
Strictly speaking though, wheel height is more about what you want to do than your height, assuming there's some length of seatpost that makes things possible. Replacing them and sawing them is pretty routine. Ultimately the large wheels are more stable and roll more easily, but are harder to turn, harder to get on (especially on an upslope) and less amenable to bunny hopping as a technique.
One of the things to keep in mind while your kids are learning to bike is that it's going to be a while before your attention isn't 100% on your own riding.
That said, when you do get past it, it's a fun way to escort junior cyclists.
But beware that once they figure it out, even a kid on training wheels will be a cadence challenge to match on a mid-size direct-drive wheel.
I ride a 36 as pretty much my only cycling device at present; it worked pretty well for pacing of family rides at the start of this summer and being used to doing pretty long solo distances (yep, centuries) on that I'd often find myself bargaining with my my nephew around mile 12 to get him to keep going on his little 1x5 20" bike. Realized he was basically out of the saddle any time he wasn't coasting so got him a 24" MTB on craigslist, and literally the next ride found myself having to keep yelling "wait up!" And here I thought I'd get a whole year worth of relaxed rail trail distance rides; there will still be some, but as he gets from last month's 50 km towards next summer's likely 50 miler or even metric, he's going to want to get them done faster than my run-out-a-mistake courage will enable.
Strictly speaking though, wheel height is more about what you want to do than your height, assuming there's some length of seatpost that makes things possible. Replacing them and sawing them is pretty routine. Ultimately the large wheels are more stable and roll more easily, but are harder to turn, harder to get on (especially on an upslope) and less amenable to bunny hopping as a technique.
One of the things to keep in mind while your kids are learning to bike is that it's going to be a while before your attention isn't 100% on your own riding.
That said, when you do get past it, it's a fun way to escort junior cyclists.
But beware that once they figure it out, even a kid on training wheels will be a cadence challenge to match on a mid-size direct-drive wheel.
I ride a 36 as pretty much my only cycling device at present; it worked pretty well for pacing of family rides at the start of this summer and being used to doing pretty long solo distances (yep, centuries) on that I'd often find myself bargaining with my my nephew around mile 12 to get him to keep going on his little 1x5 20" bike. Realized he was basically out of the saddle any time he wasn't coasting so got him a 24" MTB on craigslist, and literally the next ride found myself having to keep yelling "wait up!" And here I thought I'd get a whole year worth of relaxed rail trail distance rides; there will still be some, but as he gets from last month's 50 km towards next summer's likely 50 miler or even metric, he's going to want to get them done faster than my run-out-a-mistake courage will enable.
Last edited by UniChris; 11-08-20 at 10:32 PM.
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This is a bike forum!
What I recommend is finding a narrow-ish hallway or at least a doorway to hold onto. I did the doorway thing at the shop for a while when I was attempting to learn unicycling at work but I never really did that well and I eventually sold our unicycle. The hallway is nice because you can easily stabilize against the walls as needed.
What I recommend is finding a narrow-ish hallway or at least a doorway to hold onto. I did the doorway thing at the shop for a while when I was attempting to learn unicycling at work but I never really did that well and I eventually sold our unicycle. The hallway is nice because you can easily stabilize against the walls as needed.
#8
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This is a bike forum!
What I recommend is finding a narrow-ish hallway or at least a doorway to hold onto. I did the doorway thing at the shop for a while when I was attempting to learn unicycling at work but I never really did that well and I eventually sold our unicycle. The hallway is nice because you can easily stabilize against the walls as needed.
What I recommend is finding a narrow-ish hallway or at least a doorway to hold onto. I did the doorway thing at the shop for a while when I was attempting to learn unicycling at work but I never really did that well and I eventually sold our unicycle. The hallway is nice because you can easily stabilize against the walls as needed.
But then to actually learn to ride, you have to have room to make a mistake and then try to recover from it, which a hallway or really any sort of confined space tends to prevent. So once one is at the "almost" point it's important to be able to ride in a direction away from obstructions.
The best is generally considered being having someone who will walk alongside while you hold their shoulder (the helper doesn't hold onto the learner). But just having a fence or railing on one side works, too. It also helps with being able to restart from wherever you stop, rather than walking back to the original point, as "free mounting" tends to be a skill that trails learning to ride at all.
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#10
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In case anyone is super worried about my unicycle decision.
I ordered the 26" Club. It'll be close as to whether I need to cut the seatpost or not. My guess is that it'll fit. It's supposed to show up on Monday.
The weight limits seem really low. I'm below that but it sure seems to exclude like everyone else.
I'm hoping the larger wheel is stable. I dunno, maybe I shot myself in the foot.
I used the Yoyosam website since they offer free shipping at a lower minimum order than the unicycing site.
My wife is going to roll her eyes at me, again.
I ordered the 26" Club. It'll be close as to whether I need to cut the seatpost or not. My guess is that it'll fit. It's supposed to show up on Monday.
The weight limits seem really low. I'm below that but it sure seems to exclude like everyone else.
I'm hoping the larger wheel is stable. I dunno, maybe I shot myself in the foot.
I used the Yoyosam website since they offer free shipping at a lower minimum order than the unicycing site.
My wife is going to roll her eyes at me, again.
#11
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A 26 inch will be a little harder to learn on, but will probably suit your needs better in the long run. Keep us updated on your progress, and good luck. It sounds like we are coming into another good time for a quarantine hobby.
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#12
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Yeah, as I said before, a 26 inch would not be my choice to learn on. It will be great once you learn though. Take your time, and don't get frustrated, and enjoy.
#13
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My second unicycle was a 26" Nimbus (the better of UDC's two house brands, Club being the entry level). Ordered it when I could just barely ride the 20" I got on craigslist, and it's really what I learned to be confident on. In many ways it was far easier and more relaxing to ride, but the first few times up on it were intimidating from the height factor - I joke I exceeded my then distance record of a city block or so just because stopping seemed more scary than pushing on.
Really a 26 wouldn't be a recommended choice, but mechnically it's fine - it's just the intimidation factor is higher. Find a nice railing you can use to build experience with how it rolls, and you'll probably be ok.
Always did wonder what happened to the guy I met who bought a KH 36 to learn on. And was attempting to do so by free mounting...
Really a 26 wouldn't be a recommended choice, but mechnically it's fine - it's just the intimidation factor is higher. Find a nice railing you can use to build experience with how it rolls, and you'll probably be ok.
Always did wonder what happened to the guy I met who bought a KH 36 to learn on. And was attempting to do so by free mounting...
Last edited by UniChris; 11-22-20 at 11:54 AM.
#14
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Classic dilemma between what I want and what I need. Unless FedEx shows up tomorrow early, I probably won't have a chance to try it until the following weekend. Fingers crossed for a morning truck.
#15
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Saddle height and shape is critical when learning or riding. Much of the control is through the saddle and if its even a half inch too low or high riding is made difficult. I learned when I was a teen but can still hop on one and ride 40 years later. I much prefer the 26" but I'm over 6' tall so that may have some bearing on wheel size. I think the taller wheel reacts slower, isn't as twitchy and can definitely travel faster if you want to get somewhere.
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It's often better to buy what you want, because you will be more excited about it, and consequently will work harder to learn, and ride more. All the advice notwithstanding, you bought what was best for you. Enjoy!
#17
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I got it about an hour ago. I'm wrangling a 3 and 1 year old today and also attempting to build a wind chime. Still, I've gotten to the point where I can ride about 25 feet, once about every 10 or so attempts. The other attempts go nowhere. So now it's about consistency.
Another cool thing, I've got a pinched nerve right now. It's screwed me up enough that I can't ride a bike right now. Can't get in the position and the right side isn't strong enough to hold me up. MRI is next week. Anyway, I'm basically unaffected on the uni. I'm upright and my whole back is straight and engaged. So I can do this while I heal, whether it's decompression surgery or just time and stretching. So that's encouraging.
Another cool thing, I've got a pinched nerve right now. It's screwed me up enough that I can't ride a bike right now. Can't get in the position and the right side isn't strong enough to hold me up. MRI is next week. Anyway, I'm basically unaffected on the uni. I'm upright and my whole back is straight and engaged. So I can do this while I heal, whether it's decompression surgery or just time and stretching. So that's encouraging.
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That saddle looks comfortable. Mine is so U shaped it's really uncomfortable.
#20
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Got some inner thigh chafe, trying to put some english into the bike through the seat. I imagine this will stop once I actually learn to ride.
I read a review that mentioned it was uncomfortable. I don't know. I've taken a few nut shots and still jumped back on.
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I imagine this will stop once I actually learn to ride.
And ultimately... other sorts of saddle. After doing a metric on a conventional one and waiting for the chafing to heal I realized it wasn't viable any further, which finally prompted learning to really use the narrow handlebar and firm flat saddle I'd bought a while before but never toughened my sit bones to. That was a painful process but made a huge difference. Still has more friction than a bike, but come much closer to the idea of only having contact at the sit bones and makes a huge difference in endurance and recovery.