I am having trouble getting the last of the tire bead back onto the rim. I'm changing my first tire as I transition between summer outdoor riding and winter indoor riding. Thanks for any tricks. I'm finding that as I use the lever on one side, it just lifts the bead on the other side off, so I'm basically moving all around the tire and just moving the part that isn't over the room around the tire as I go.

Since this is your first time, is the tire you are trying to mount the correct size and type for your rim (shot)?

The last bit is easier if you press the opposite end of the bead you're working on--the other side of the whole wheel from where you're working--to the center and let it drop into the groove track in the middle of the rim--that will give more slack on the side you're working on.

Re your specific issue, use two irons, one on each side of the problem. One will hold the tire tire on the rim where it belongs while you use the other to get the other end over the hump.

The side opposite of what you are working on needs to be off the inside edge of the rim and down in the groove of the rim. You Tube videos will likely be better than us trying to describe the procedure.

Yes. Actually the rear tire wore off the tread, but the front tire looks basically new still. Moving the front tire to the rear tire and putting a new one on the front tire.

If needed I spray a slight lubricant, such as Windex or soap solution, on the rim and tire section that is difficult to
finish up. I have never needed levers to mount a tire, although some tires are quite difficult. Bill

What am I doing wrong? I got the first one on after probably thirty minutes of serious effort. Broke out into a sweat before getting it on. Here is my progress on the second tire so far. There is a zero percent chance of me ever getting one of these repaired on the trail.

First use.



https://teravail.com/products/sparwood-tire#/

Some of the newer tubeless ready tire and rim combinations make installing a tire very difficult. Best to use a bead jack. Some people carry them on the bike.

Never heard of a bead jack. Going to check this out. Thanks.
(https://www.salsacycles.com/bikes/20...eyman_sora_650)
(https://teravail.com/products/sparwood-tire#/)

start as 12'30" and particularly what he says at 13'09". That should help.

I'll give it a pinch next time and see if that helps.

This is a mechanical question and should be posted in 'bicycle mechanics' not GD. The only way to get good at installing tires is to do it a few hundred times.

CLICK HERE

Barry

If you have one of these larger spring clamps handy put it around the tire and work the tire iron toward the clamp. It keeps the tire from coming back off the rim as you work toward the clamp.

Notice how you didn't have any issue getting the bead of the tire of the other side on the rim. That is because there wasn't anything competing with it for the smallest diameter of the rim which is why you had little trouble at all with it. Now the bead of the second side of the tire needs that same space and the bead from the first side isn't giving it up without a fight..

As others have said you need to go back to the point you started with on the side that's giving you issues and push it's bead to the center of the spoke channel if there is one and push the bead of the side that is already on the rim out of the spoke channel and onto it's bead seat of the rim. Do that every few inches working in both directions around the rim, toward the point where the bead is making you wonder how it's even possible or if they made the tire wrong.

Takes some practice and you might have to do this multiple times, but every little millimeter of bead you gain getting it over the rim is one closer to success.

When you get good at this, you may not even have to use a tire lever to unmount your tire from the rim. But a good lever or tire jack for bicycle tire does make it quicker to mount and dismount a tire. One day I'll get one! <grin>

I have found youtube videos to be very helpful in demonstrating how to get tires on and off tight rims. Just search youtube.com and you'll get a lot of advice from some people that really know what they are doing.

Probably too late now, but if you're finding it difficult to change tires, next time just put the new one on the rear. I don't see the point in making this two tire changes instead of one except for a very small theoretical cost savings. I'm not even sure that there's any cost savings at all as the tire on the replacement tire on the back is probably going to need replacing at about the same time.

The idea is to always have the newest tire/best tread/most puncture resistance on the front. I never leave a tire on the front wheel when replacing the rear, I swap them at that point.

fwiw - I like toe clip strap(s) or velcro straps as an extra hand(s) to keep the tire squeezed into the channel, while I work my way around the wheel

Most tires I can put on by hand. You don't want to use a tire lever to install the tire. It might pinch the inner tube. Some tire/wheel combos are real PITA, for those I use bead/tire jack already posted back in #10.

This is a cool idea.

learned it here from another BFer about a decade ago. the MTB doesn't need all that but the summer MTB tires are kinda soft & floppy so a strap helps. the hybrid's winter tires are tough, so all hands on deck. I have a bead jack, but that only works w/ narrower tires on the road bike. doesn't fit around the hybrid winters & the MTB summer or winter tires