Here you go:


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0e7502cd1.jpeg

https://bemorebikes.com/raised-reversed-stems.html


Edit: never mind, I see this already got mentioned.

That’s how you know you are on Bike Forums.

This.

Also you're somewhat limited in bar choice with a 25.4mm clamp.

I don't think the OP has divulged their intended uses yet either which still makes this an unanswerable question.

Well they operate together as a lever of the distance of the hypotenuse of the stem length and bar width. (Any fore and aft distance o the bar gets added to or subtracted from the stem length.) So, say the bars are 42 cm and stem 10. Straight bars. Hypotenuse will be 23.3 cm. (Bar width from stem was 21cm,( So you can see the 10 cm stem had s9ome effect but not a whole lot.

Now this is if you are spinning the handlebars like they are a near horizontal version of the wheel of a ship. If your input is just push/pull, then your input is parallel to the stem and its length has no effect at all. So the stem contributes between zero and 11% to the leverage (for this pretty typical road bike).

But he didn't want "help", or to engage in any discussion with knowledgeable people about what he was trying to accomplish and why. He just wanted others to help him Google for the part he's looking for. Some people took the bait.

Don't listen to all the knucklleheads. All the negativity comes from people who haven't even tried this type of a set up. Typical bikeforums where if you show yourself a little different and don't follow what is mainstream you will be ridiculed.

I figured you would pile into the insult van. There is a little different and then there is people who say in a thread about what geared bike to buy "I only run single-speeds gears are stupid" which is not helpful. You have sadly proven yourself in the not helpful crowd on many occasions. I enjoy fixed gears and single speeds and am a lot different but I don't believe that a single speed is the only answer and nor do I think mentioning that is what I ride all the time in threads unrelated providing zero help to the OP and that is where the difference lies. If you work on giving more helpful advice and get ridiculed then agreed that is a problem but being unhelpful will lead to ridicule. Plus it is the internet and not to excuse all the bad behavior but it is par for the course.

I am late to the party.
My understanding is that at anything above walking speed bikes steer by camber thrust, not slip angle, and the bars are turned (steered) to keep from falling over.
As was pointed out in one of the early posts, rake and trail (and to a lesser extent wheelbase) really affect the handling at speed. That is why it is easy to ride no hands on a touring bike or cruiser, harder on a crit bike.
Having said that, stem length will affect weight distribution, although probably not any more than going between the tops and the hoods.

One thing BiekForumz tends to forget, is that not all bikes are drop-bar road bikes, and that not everyone rides the same kind of bike you do. Heck, most of my bikes are set up very much differently than the others; (2 drop-bar road bikes, a swept-bar Townie, an XC MTB, and a 26” BMX Kruizer; stem lengths range from 50-140mm). I mean, why have 5 bikes, if they’re all just copies of a same thing?

That said, a 0mm stem is a weird ask, ad CrimsonEclipse hasn’t come back to tell us exactly what they’re doing with it.

A little bit more about the “why” would help understand what the results they’re trying to achieve. There may be a solution using more readily available components, but we don’t know what that is, because they won’t tell us. :foo:

generally speaking - typically but not always

when a fit / set-up / whatever looks odd - very different - it can be cause for question if not concern

seat slammed way back or forward ... excessive seat angle ; seat pointing up to the sky / seat pointing down ... goofy looking seats ... no seatpost showing - or too much showing ... excessive stem riser height - or excessive drop ...

a zero length stem possibly fits into this category

but who knows maybe this will be a trend in the future

LOL. Buys wrong size bike then wants zero reach stem to make up for buying the wrong size bike. Vegan Bikes has it right.

Fit is an entirely different matter. I doubt OP is looking for a high performance fit. That would be an adventure.

I was riding on a rail trail last week and someone came riding past me at very good pace with a very upright fit. Their handlebars were so high they were riding with their elbows out and they were still very upright. Their muscle development must be very different than most cyclists.

It's amazing to read all the perceptions and misperceptions about how a bicycle works. Such a seemingly simple machine....

That's been happening to me more and more. I tend to also notice a very large downtube on their bikes. :D

The one place where a zero length stem would have an issue, is trying to ride with no hands.
One of the self-steering mechanisms on the bicycle, is that when the bike starts falling to one side, the handlebar will also flop to the same side because of the weight of the bar at the end of the stem. This helps arrest the fall. (there are other effects to help self-steering too. Namely gyroscopic precession and tire camber). This effect is especially pronounced at low speed. If the stem is zero length, the weight of the handlebar will not cause the fork to turn, hence less self steering. If the stem is pointing backwards, it's even worse- it's working at cross purpose now.
If you are running a zero length stem, you could attach a lead weight to a stick that attaches to the bars or stem. A front reflector holder for example. This will help replace this self steering effect lost by going to zero length stem.

Apples and oranges. A stem's orientation does not change the stearing, it's length does.

It shouldn't. Make sure you aren't sending recurring donations by accident...

This thread is about stems and not about drivetrains. I am not sure why you would even bring up something so irrelevant. I just don't understand why there is so much butthurt because of OPs desire to try something different...and BTW zero length stems is nothing new, they have been around for as long as the bicycle itself.

I question this.
In the picture in post #22, the majority of the weight is behind the steerer, which should have the opposite efffect; but I will bet the bike could be ridden no hands.
I think the other effects are the relevant ones.

I agree with this.

The real reason this is contentious is because the cycling culture is incredibly conservative with regards to what a bike is. Especially the roadies.

You can flip the stem backwards and slam the seat on a bike that’s too big if you want.

Will it look ridiculous? Yes. But it will ride fine.

Ya, notsomuch.
Stem length has little to do with whether a bicycle will self-steer or not. Head angle, fork rake/offset and trail, along with overall wheelbase, determine how stable a bike will be, hands-free.

Stem length does affect a couple of things, though “above the headset,” as it were; firstly, stem length, along with bar width, changes the leverage ratio between the movement of your hands (distance) and the amount of angular deflection of the front wheel. Shorter stems and narrower bars will produce more change in the front wheel angle for a given input at the grips, for more responsive or “twitchy “ steering.

The other thing stem length can affect is how much of the rider’s weight is placed on or ahead of the front wheel. Working in combination with top tube length, moving the rider’s weight forward of the steering axis uses that weight to counter forces from the road conditions (like bumps) from deflecting the front wheel as much. That’s why you see long, low stems on short-wheelbase, fast-steering bikes like Crit bikes and XC racers, to impart some straight line stability, while still being highly responsive when called for.

Nope. Did you just make that up off the top of your head?

Correct.

I see a number of people want to disagree with me, without giving any reasons. It's an easy experiment to do for anyone who has a fixed gear bike. loosen the stem and turn the stem /bars around 180 degree. And then tilt the bike to the left or right. See if the fork steers into the turn or steers away from the turn.
BTW I''ve never done this experiment myself so I'd be interested in the outcome too.

The outcome on a stationary bike is irrelevant.
Can you walk the bike around a corner with your hand only on the saddle?
Or, more to the point, can you ride it no hands?

That would be a good experiment to do.