RoadWearier

Going to try the fixie life. Found a Windsor the Hour (what a name!) for $100. Currently set up with no brakes. I will ride it around the neighborhood as is but I will Def want to put a front brake on for riding around my hilly city.

So what is a good but not super expensive basic brake to put on. I'm hoping I can put a front on but I only saw a rear mount in the picture. Plus it just has basic flat pedals but I am assuming I need toe straps at least so any suggestions for those?

RoadWearier

Buying a Windsor "the Hour" track bike to try a fixie. But it has no brakes and I'm not ok with that. So I'm looking for brake suggestions. I'm only.paying $100 for the bike so don't need $100 brakes but I'd like something reliable.


These are the mounts if that helps.

Also need toe straps. Want this for city riding so don't really want Clipless.

RoadWearier

Buying a Windsor "the Hour" track bike to try a fixie. But it has no brakes and I'm not ok with that. So I'm looking for brake suggestions. I'm only.paying $100 for the bike so don't need $100 brakes but I'd like something reliable.


These are the mounts if that helps.

Also need toe straps. Want this for city riding so don't really want Clipless.

79pmooney

Brakes - yes! Measure vertically from the brake hole on the crown and rear brake bridge down to the center of the rim. That is your brake drop. Look at the nut side of each, crown and bridge to see if it is recessed for a modern brake with Allen nut (my bet) or has a flat for a regular nut and washer (like all older bikes). Then find a set of calipers that have that drop and the right nuts. Shimano dual pivots, either new of from the coop box will do nicely. Tektros don't have the bling but will stop you well. They come in black which you may prefer. New will come with levers. Tektro levers are cheap, good, fit my hands very nicely and are on all my bikes.

RoadWearier

Wait...you mean for the front...brake hole on the crown to center rim, right?

THEN..Brake hole in rear on the seat stay to center REAR rim, correct?

I just tallied that up....over $50 per brake!!! Am I wrong?
If not I may pass. This Windsor is only a So So bike I'd be getting for $200. Seems like I could get a similar spec (so-so) new from BD for $300, right? And then I wouldn't have to go to the trouble of putting on brakes.

bboy314

This is basically what you need to measure, both frame and fork.

And then determine whether you need nutted, or recessed nut brakes.

Yes, new bike parts cost money. If you have a co op in your area, or a shop that sells used parts, you can probably find some calipers pretty cheap.

RoadWearier

Thanks! That makes more sense!

Sounds like I'll have to put $130 into it to make it safe to ride though. That's more than I wanted. Maybe I should just get a Kilo TT (or should I get the Pro like the Zachster recommends)

veganbikes

The Windsor is a very initially cheap bike that has a brand name from an old defunct brand to give it more clout. I wouldn't put money towards it used and new I probably wouldn't either. A pound sign: KiloTT is better than the Windsor but is the same situation "brand" wise but generally spec's wise is ok enough to try it out but nothing great. The Pro is slightly better but little notches. If you are stuck online for some reason Wabi seems to make some more decent fixed gears. Otherwise your local shop might be able to get something fun or build you up a pretty awesome bike.

In the end though if you want good braking good quality pads and stiff shoes with high quality polished stainless steel cables and good stiff housing is what you want for good braking without as much cost as actual calipers and levers. I recommend SwissStop (or SRAM which uses SwissStop pads) or Kool Stop for pads and Jagwire Pro or Elite Kits for cables and housing (you will generally have extra stuff which you can file away for future usage which is excellent).

For pedals some variant of the XT PD-8120 is my go to. I cannot recall which ones I have had for years and which model I have on another bike but XT clipless is I think the best way to go. Good quality, long lasting pedals with excellent bearings. They do make some more expensive XTRs and cheaper non-series ones but the XTs I think are the best way to go in terms of overall cost.

I would not want any cages or clips or anything like that with fixed gear personally I like something I can get in and out of easily but also have good foot retention that is adjustable. I have multiple bikes so I can have another bike with just nice flat pedals but for fixed gear I want confidence and clipless pedals are confidence for me along with ease of use.

veganbikes

Original thread here:
Need Brake Suggestions for a Track Bike Fixie and Toe Clip or pedal Suggestions

shelbyfv

I'd avoid clips and straps if you are not already familiar. Choose flat pedals or clipless, especially for urban use.

cb400bill

Merged duplicate threads.

veganbikes

Agreed or most everything except riding on flats fixed is not as fun as a new rider. I did it and slipping off the pedals going down a hill was not fun.

cb400bill

Merged duplicate threads, again.

13ollocks

I used my usual SPD-SL clipless on my fixie - I wanted some sort of foot retention and having to reach down to cinch or loosen a toe strap on a moving pedal didn’t see like a good idea (to me anyway - I know some folks are fine with straps)

shelbyfv

The Motobecane you've been pondering would make a nice fixie.

squirtdad

but as is or with new bars meets the OP's needs better than BSOs

79pmooney

I'm the opposite. My biggest fear on fix gears is a foot coming off the pedal on a fast downhill and striking the back of my foot or ankle. Probably an injury I'd pay for the rest of my life. So I ride with toeclips, quality leather straps and old fashioned slotted aluminum cleats. Straps pulled tight. Yes I fall over if I forget to reach down and release the buckle. But I'll take 100 fall-overs to avoid being hit with a 200 RPM pedal just once. (In 48 years, I've probably fallen over 20 times. No strikes. I have pulled out of the cleat a few times on high RPM descents but my foot is still strapped in and on the pedal. All that happens is my heart jumps into my throat. Then I realize my foot is still on, drag the brake maybe a touch, slide my foot back onto the cleat, swallow that heart and continue.

One thing I am certain of. I cannot tell at all if I am keeping my foot straight and not twisting it when my RPMs get over 200. So I would not know if I am securely cleated with clipless or about to unclip. And there's no way I'm looking down! (For reference, most of my riding in my days of single sided fix gear hubs was on 42-17 (67") or the like. That's 100 RPM at 20 mph. 200 at 40. Cars have clocked me at 45. In my younger and crazier days I went much faster (and drivers thought I was nuts. Never tried to pass or come alongside.)