I only quoted 5 mm because of what he said above in post #45. Real Princess and pea territory. Personally, I’m pretty insensitive to stem length within reason. I find stack height more important, but I don’t notice 5 mm changes.

Yes 5mm is wrong. There was 5mm difference in reach on the Zipp handlebar I wanted. The stems I ended up with for both bikes were 10mm shorter and I believe 6 degrees angled up more than stock. I tried and returned a few stems before they felt right.

Yeah, I realize that. You can't really take anything the OP writes at face value though.

Yeah a custom bike with all of those features would probably be somewhere around that or higher. If you swap out some parts you can get that price down pretty easily get a nice steel frame

I threw together a nice build for about 5k USD using a nice steel frame and carbon fork, carbon riser handlebar and seatpost, SRAM AXS XPLR (Apex and GX mix) and a nice light aluminum Industry Nine wheelset and Magura flat mount brakes. Go with a different mechanical groupset and you can save quite a bit and swap out to some cheaper Shimano calipers (keep similar higher quality rotors). Swapping out some of the carbon bits would save quite a bit money as well. You can also spend more if you so desire and a shop can make that happen.

The goal is to make the bike right for your wife so have her talk with them and you stay involved minimally or have her write down her thoughts and hand that to the shop and give them a reasonable budget and ask if it is possible. I can certainly easily build you a bike for your budget if it is reasonable it may not have everything but the important elements would need to be looked after and a shop could do that.

This thread (and others) constantly puts me in mind of two old phrases:

1. 'more money than sense' and
2. 'all the gear and no idea'.

Depending on what Canyon replies to my email I’ll likely go FX6 Sport. It has a less aggressive stance, is easily adjustable with stems and comes with 40mm tires which makes more sense on our city pavement.

no e tap is only real strike but perhaps I will ask Trek store about adding Apex AXS.

Ok, well the simple reality with this bike is that either the nicely integrated stock carbon bar/stem combo fits, within the 25 mm height range of stack spacers provided, or:-

1. If reach is the only issue then you may be able to swap to the same integrated bar with a shorter stem. The stock stem length for each frame size is listed under “component geometry” so you can see what options are potentially available. If you are in the US, I’ve heard that Canyon CS over there is not very good at dealing with this kind of swap, but you can ask. You will probably have to buy the additional expensive bar, but at least Canyon pricing is still very competitive overall.

2. Find out what size the steerer tube is and source an aftermarket bar/stem combination to suit. As someone else noted, the brake hoses are external, so it will be easy to change. If it has a 1.25” steerer then your stem options will be limited.

The Trek is $530usd less than the Canyon and based on comments you have made, I am confident your wife wouldn't benefit from wireless shifting, as in it wouldn't make her riding experience any better.

But if wireless shifting is actually 'needed', sell the Trek group and use that money plus the money saved to buy a wireless SRAM group. An eagle AXS group is $1100usd or less.


The Trek comes with a smaller chainring, which is probably beneficial.
The Trek comes with their stupid 'thruskew' which never needed to be created and solcea a problem that didn't exist.

Are you sure you need 40mm tires for city pavements? How much does your wife weigh anyways? You don't have to answer that- just plug in her weight in the tire pressure calculator:
https://www.renehersecycles.com/tire...re-calculator/
Lighter riders need less tire pressure and therefore less tire width than heavier riders.

Pavement conditions are hazardous in Toronto; narrow tires can easily get snagged in cracks unless you are vigilant. There are several roads and trails that the narrow-tire crowds avoid altogether.

Great areas with decent pavement like High Park and Martin Goodman exist but if you want to go on urban adventures without restrictions or stress you are much better off on a tire approaching 40mm IMO.

So that pretty much rules out the Canyon then.

It does. I am still confused by the reps choice of words, that only 30 was “permissible”. I feel like the email was AI generated like their Live Chat feature.

the rep (bot?) said that the question would be forwarded to a tech so I am awaiting confirmation.

Well if you Google it you will see that it’s true. You might well be able to squeeze in 32 mm tires, but not 40 mm.

Guy in this thread got a 40mm on a Roadlite! And the Conti Terra Trail. Exact tires I want

post #11

https://m.bikeforums.net/showthread....dlite%20series.

”Works perfect but less than 1mm clearance on the rear frame.”

I wouldn’t rush out and spend your $4600 based on this.

Agree. Going to try and get a pic from this member.

but if 40 fits tight then 35 or 38 should be a safe bet.

The poster joined the forum, posted three identical messages on the same day, and was never heard from again. I think you can trust his information. Yeah, he's definitely more trustworthy than Canyon's website.

/s

Wishing and dreaming don't make it real :innocent:

Don’t forget that wheels and tires deflect laterally when cornering. So you need enough clearance for the tire to deflect. I think a minimum of 4 mm frame clearance is considered safe. Less than 1 mm is certainly not!

I say the op should go for it (the Roadlite)!

Doing so would provide at least three opportunities. First, to spend lots of money. Second, to turn a silk purse into a sow's ear: jam those 40mm puppies in there, futz about with stem/bars ... the possibilities are endless. Third: once the inevitable issues crop up, the op will have endless opportunities to whinge about Canyon etc. and start new threads.

Can't see any downside to going ahead with the purchase.

messaged the poster who claimed 40. If he has 1mm clearance then 35 or 38 should work depending on the actual inflation size of the 40 Terra Trails he claims installed. I have 35 on my Roubaix and 38 on the Checkpoint and they are a good compromise for most roads in the city and probably a bit faster and easier to climb with than >40 on the smooth pavement.

yes I know he hasn’t been seen in a while. But if he responds with a pic I’ll take that as a sign.

The poster actually said “less than 1mm” so that’s basically no clearance. 38 mm would give you slightly more than 1 mm clearance (still not enough to avoid catastrophic frame rubbing) and 35 mm would give you around 3 mm which might be just about acceptable. It depends exactly where the clearance issue is on the frame.

Sheesh reminder to self, check out who the op is before opening a thread.

:bang:

.

waiting on a pic which likely won’t materialize.

35 probably works but much easier and safer at this point to go FX6 Sport with stock 40’s.

the stock 40’s on the FX get worst review I’ve ever seen on Rolling Resistance so will still swap for Terra Trail

Seriously (no snark ... for the moment!), the Trek is a much 'better' choice -- not bike, 'choice' -- given the requirements you've stated in this thread. Geometry/fit, and tire clearance, are both what you say you are looking for ... out of the box, in my opinion (fwiw).

Even the Trek's proprietary hub/axle system is not really an issue, I don't believe, should you want to switch out to Apex AXS. As far as I know (you'd have to check), the Apex 12spd cassette fits a standard 11spd road cassette body, so should prove to be a very straightforward change (shifter; derailleur; cassette).