He didn't actually say that, he was asking about doing it. With Schrader or with an adapter it's possible to fill a tire at a gas station but easy to explode it if the station pressure is high enough. You have to be super careful.

Also, will 1.4" tires fit on that bike?

I realize he didn't actually say that. But I thought I'd get a response from him to confirm what he is actually using. After all he did say this...
So that brings into question why is he even going to gas stations to use their air hoses? I can't remember how long it's been since I've filled my bicycle tire at a gas station. If I even ever have.

I actually had that happen a few times; it didn't sink into my thick skull that the setting at the local Gulf station is for cars. It usually took some hours though for the tire to blow.

I'm actually surprised if your gas stations have enough pressure to get you to 90psi.

The places where I have worked set the compressors to 150psi. These days if you can even find a gas station with air it's usually an electric compressor that costs $2. I don't think they go very high.

Most cars use 35psi, or so. Heavy pick up trucks might be 65psi. The pressure is high to allow a lot of volume and for air tools, if there is a shop.

I don't remember, either. Maybe when I was a kid 55 years ago.

What tire pressure do you run?

250 lb rider
30 lb bike
700c wheels (close enough to 27)
32 mm standard case tire (1-1/4 inch)
dry condition

Using SRAM bike tire pressure calculator to start.
Front 75 psi
Rear 80 psi
good to start. May go lower until one gets pinch flats

https://axs.sram.com/guides/tire/pressure

I haven't read all the posts but these are just a few thoughts of a guy who has been riding a very ling time.

You need to have the tools and skills to change tires on the road. It's not difficult but the road is not the place to learn. Flats happen. No being prepared is thumbing your nose at the gods. Might work for a while. There are U-tube videos I'm sure. You can ask at bike shops or (better) bike coops about lessons. Go to Sheldon Brown's website.

Kendas are mediocre tires. Might not be the cause of your issues but why not run good ones. Panasonic Paselas are quality tires. Not light, super fast but solid all-around tires that pick up little glass and very rarely have defects. I'm not saying you need to ride them, but use them as a quality standard to be at or above.

The line to ride - a balancing act between debris, road hazards, traffic, being seen ... Debris - obvious. The further left you ride, the less, almost always. Road hazards - ditto but more exceptions. Wet painted lines. (Fog lines) Cracks running parallel to the road. Traffic - not a simple answer. Those that are not texting will see riders ahead but may well not notice riders to the far right. If you want to be seen, move left! On quiet country roads, I stay well away from the road edge to be seen. Pull back when I hear or see in my mirror a car approaching from behind. Haven't been hit yet except on purpose. (We have folk here who shouldn't be driving. More than one of my intentionally close pickup truck passes were by drivers well known to the local police.)

The best line to take can change. We have roads where I live with big variations in what the right edge looks like. On some I vary my position as much as two feet and if I need more, I'll take it. But when I do, I two things if at all possible. I make the line change slowly, starting way before I get to the point where I need it so I am doing nothing sudden to surprise cars. And I often signal my move with the left arm turn signal.

And probably my biggest advice - don't consider the right edge of the road your friend. It is the source of most flats and many crashes. Also opening car doors, balls, kids, animals ...

I think 79pmooney covered most of it. About fixing flats on the road: I know you said that this is beyond your comfort zone, but let me ask you: would you rather take the time to develop the skill (I learned at 7 years of age, so there's no way you can't learn this), or would you rather continue to have to take multi-mile hikes when something goes wrong?

Also, to address a couple of things that 79pmooney didn't:

Most flats happen on the rear tire, so it isn't unusual for flats to keep happening on the rear. I've had, maybe, 1-2 flats (max) per year for the past 30+ years, and I can only think of two that were front flats - both were pinch flats caused by hitting large-ish rocks (therefore, pilot error).

There are theories as to why this is so: supposedly, debris naturally lies flat on the road (gravity, rain, wind cause the debris, for example a piece of wire or a piece of glass) to lie flat. In the case of a piece of glass, it gets turned over until the "points" dig into the road and hold it with the smoothest side up. Then, your front tire runs over it, it gets kicked up so that the pointy ends can lodge in your rear tire.

So, don't blame your poor rear tire, it is likely innocent.

Second: I don't think anyone mentioned tire liners. You can google "bicycle tire liner" to see what I mean. I personally have never used them because, as mentioned above, I get at most 1-2 flats/year.

Thanks for the good advice. I ordered a SCHWALBE Road Cruiser Active SBC K-Guard Tire 27 x 1-1/4 Gumwall on Sunday, still waiting for it to show up in the mailstream! I called a local shop that has 27 inch tires, Specialized for a little over $30, said gumwalls are hard to come by.

For whatever reason it takes forever to get the Schwalbe tires, whether Amazon or ebay, I'm still waiting. The local shop has a 27 inch Panaracer.

I finally got the Schwalbe tire I needed, first the whitewall through Amazon for around $20, then the gumwall on ebay for around $28 from England then a Kenda for around $17 on Amazon as back ups. The whitewall will be fine for a while and I have ridden on it for long enough to feel confidence I won't get another flat. Somehow I got a 700cm innertube and got a flat a while back not sure if it is compatible.

Go to RollingResistance.com and get some good info on puncture resistance. I did a sort on that for road bikes.

The local shop had a Panaracer gumwall for around $33; but I didn't like how it is formless, while the others are stiff and formed and tight.

Minimizing flats - #1 Ride over as little debris as you can. Find that line just to the left of the right-side debris field that is so common. When you do have to ride though it, steer a course so that your tires hit the least amount. Watch for glass and steer accordingly. And as pointed out above, ride with enough pressure to avoid pinch flats. (Again, where you place your tires also makes a big difference here. But enough air simplifies avoiding that hazard.)

With skill and practice, most of us can reduce flats a lot. Anyone who rode the old sewups learned this routine simply because not doing so lead to very high either expense or time spent repairing tires.

Simply maintaining proper air pressure goes a long way.

OK, you are 250, so hitting potholes and railroad crossings is a no no, that being said, it sure sounds like you are underinflated to boot. Get a decent floor pump with a gauge, and the widest tires that will fit on your bike. I like Zaffiros for set them and forget them riding. Are there better riding tires, oh yeah, but they will be an improvement over your current tires, and they are bullet proof. Also check the rim and rim strip to make sure they aren't part of the problem. And finally, learn to fix a flat, after a while it should only take a few minutes to change out a tube.

"Formless" is good.

If the tire folds easily off the bike, that means it has a Kevlar bead, as opposed to a stiff steel bead. With extremely few exceptions, steel beads are used exclusively on cheaper tires.

Schwalbe Marathon E-Plus tire.

It's heavy. No free lunch in the world.

"Formless" probably means there's not a lot of stiffness in the sidewall. That lack of stiffness will mean (a) it deforms better when you hit gravel, giving you a smoother ride, and (b) you won't lose as much energy to bending the sidewall which you don't recover (like a spring), meaning you'll roll further and faster with the same input energy from pedaling than you would with a stiff sidewall.

Anyone using Mr Tuffy Tire Liners?
I used them back in the 70`s. They seemed to work back then.
'
https://mrtuffy.com/
'

Just got these and trying a tubeless install.

Should be great for minimizing flats.

No problems since changing out the tire with a Schwalbe and innertube and using some black electrical tape to line the interior.

Hindsight is perfect a usual with all the inputs. And realize one cause was riding over some traprock at the park where I cut through to the road, probably a 50 feet run of jagged traprock. I don't know why my skull is so thick sometimes.