Just picked up a 70s/80s Raleigh. Really not sure what year it is. The paint is ok, but has some scratches and dings. Especially under the backbone where it was, I assume, stored improperly. Not sure if it is better to leave it original, retouch or just repaint completely.

Picture would help

trying to get my 10 posts to be able to post pictures.

What is you goal? protect frame, make it prettier? does having the decals make a difference to you
what Raleigh model?

but knowing nothing else I would say, stop any rust, touch up with clear and ride it proudly with it history showing

Next choice if you want it looking nice is to get it powder coated by some one who is experienced in bike frames and then then add decals

full repaint by a pro is expensive ($600 to $1000) and does add that much to resale price

Without seeing photos, it's hard to give a definitive recommendation. But in general, I would lean towards preserving the original finish as much as possible. Light touch-ups or buffing out minor scratches may be reasonable. A full repaint should only be considered if the existing paint is beyond saving.

Depending on the model it may not be worth pouring money into it. Some light scratches can be buffed out using a rubbing compound, but you have to be careful because paint on bikes are really thin and you could buff too much damaging the paint and the decals, in fact don't even buff over the decals. Once you have the more serious scratches reduced, then use a non-abrasive scratch remover. Once you have that done, go over it with a ceramic spray on wax. It won't come out looking brand new, but it will look a lot better.

By the way, just use car products, don't buy expensive bike boutique waxes, that stuff is junk. Turtle wax makes the best consumer level buffing compound, Meguiar's Mirror Bright polishing wax to reduce the minor stuff after buffing, and lastly Jay Leno's Garage Radiant Ceramic Coating to make it really shine and protect the paint from UV.

The rubbing compound will take some elbow grease, the rest goes on easily, and of those last two products, the Meguiar's and the Jay Leno's, whatever you have left over, use it on other bikes, or do the cars!

We have this discussion often in our motorcycle circles and it really boils down to personal taste. I once thought freshly restored bikes were the pinnacle of the vintage world but these days it's all about original for me. I love seeing the lifespan of the vehicle before me, all the stories it must have, where it's been and who's owned it. I'm old and battered myself, with stories to go along. I think if you restore it mechanically and clean every crevice it will look like a million bucks. Remember- it's only original once.

I am looking to get the bike in good rideable condition and use it. I have a friend that has a bike shop that is going to help me get it in good shape as far as riding it goes. I am more wondering how much I should, or shouldn’t do aesthetically.

thank you, I will be posting photos soon.

That’s typically the way I lean as well. Thanks for the advice.

thank you.

thank you.

Please no need to respond but get involved in the forum. Don't just post in your own thread. Get involved in one of the many active threads in the forum. Also you can multi quote which puts all the stuff into one post and makes is easier to read and deal with. With the awesome threads going on you will surpass the 10 posts quickly.

I think with the overall condition of that bike I'd just try to touch up with a color as close as you can get. Spend the bulk of your money replacing the rusty things like the cables and chain.

thanks for the advice.

Clean it up get it clear coated. Preserve the patina.

There is no need for repainting or anything of the sort with that bike.

Use this instead: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/meguiar-s/meguiar-s-16-ounce-liquid-wax/meg0/a1216?

If that product fails to amaze, this product is much more aggressive with oxidation...and everything else. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...d/meg0/g17216?


FWIW, I wouldn't powdercoat a bonded aluminum frame. Powdercoating involves temperatures in the 350-400 degree range. There is no telling how happy the binding agent will be with those temperatures. Even if the "epoxy" bonding agent is fine, & doesn't catch fire in the oven or succumb to the chemical tank immersion to remove the old paint before media blasting for frame prep and passivation, the quality of the bond after a major heat cycle would be suspect.

In your case, you have aluminum tubes mated to steel joints with a 30 year old bonding agent and mechanical collar to swage the whole thing together. The different expansion rates of the 2 materials at the 400 degrees necessary to powdercoat can't possibly be a healthy thing for the integrity of the bond.

Ya, I agree with those that say “leave the frame as is”! A good “fluff and buff” will be fine. This will be a great “project bike” where you’ll get to learn a great deal about refurbishing older bikes. It’s great that you have a friend with a bike shop. I’d resist the urge to “upgrade” (at least initially) and try to save as many of the OEM components as possible. Sure, replace the chain, cables/housings and brake pads but I’d definitely try to restore the function (but prolly not the form) of as many of the original parts as possible. None are high end but neither is the bike. The rusted parts will (may ?) benefit from a good soaking in EvapoRust! Aluminum parts (that aren’t coated or anodized) will look amazing after degreasing and polishing. Plastic parts, well, just might have to be cleaned and used “as is”. Your bike shop friend may have a scrap parts bin!
Anyway, have a great time with this bike. Welcome to the forum .