Well, I decided to do a post on I think my final chain lubricating process. Since I started riding around 2016 I have tried all kinds of different oils/waxes and such. My last thread here on chains was a question about roller wear and why it was happening to my chain. Never really got a good answer until I ask a gentleman who rides our local Greenway/MUP. He is kind of a legend around our city. Riders even donated a bench to him on the Greenway. Here is a link to our local TV station doing a segment on him. Actually, the second as he just broke 200,000 miles, the first was at 100,000 miles.

https://www.wral.com/video/tar-heel-...bike/21346782/

I found out that he teaches a bicycle maintenance course for the city, so I signed up. I did the course a few months ago and now have some real results on his process of lubricating a chain. Here is what he taught.

1.) He uses White Lightning Clean Ride: https://www.whitelightningco.com/pro...nts/clean-ride He talked about hot waxing a bit, but said it was to much work. He said there are other wax based lubricants on the market but he finds White Lightning to be the cheapest.
2.) Never use an oil based lubricant for the chain. It will attract dirt and then make a grinding paste.
3.) Roller wear is not a problem and in his opinion a good thing. The wax can get into the inside of the rollers and that is where it should be for the pins. If you look at the chain it will show the wax as white in the pin depressions. He said that is what you want, it hardens like paint.
4.) A new chain needs to be stripped of the factory grease. He uses gasoline but recommends odorless mineral spirits. You never need to clean the chain again as the White Lightning will do that as it is applied.
5.) He taught to take an empty Sterno can or equivalent and fill with about a 1/4 inch of White Lightning. You then use a small paint brush and go all along the chain catching the drippings in the can. You will see black coming off and that is ok. He stated that if you take this and rub it between your fingers it is not gritty. It is molecular metal that is coming off. Wipe off the excess and do one final wipe off before the next ride.
6.) He does this every 100 miles. I do it every 150 miles or after three rides. Also, he said it works best when the temperature is above 75 degrees. My basement never is that warm, so I warm up the White Lightning before using.
7.) In checking your chain he was not into any fancy measuring devices, he actually just puts the chain in the large front chain ring and pulls on the chain, you should not see the top of any tooth. He explained about using a ruler also. He stated he has bicycles that he has never had to replace the chain with thousands of miles on them.

For myself, I am now at around 5000 miles using his technique and am showing no wear. I used to use odorless mineral spirits in a chain cleaner before lubricating but do not have to do that now, saving mineral spirits.

Here we go...

I thought this thread was going to be about headlights.

Good tips. If you have a bike stand, you can put the bike up on the stand with the front pointing way down, like at a 45 degree. Now drip the White Lightning on the chain. Unlike doing it on flat ground where half the lube ends up on the ground, now the lube would run along the chain, and much less of it is wasted.

Of course, the most important thing to remember is to let it dry overnight before you ride the bike.

That was my favorite Burt Reynolds film.


I converted to White Lightning awhile back and will not be switching anytime soon.
Seems to not collect dirt like prior dry lubes I've tried. Chain maintenance is not a constant concern any longer.

I like simplicity too. And I'm not going to go to any extra effort to make my chain last longer, since I highly doubt any particular method can claim to increase chain life very significantly. Which to me, considering the price of chains, would have to at least double the chain life compared to any other method.

I've got close to 7000 miles and no notable wear on my 11 speed chain. All I ever do is drip on the lube. This chain has only been lubed with those wax based emulsions of various brands. I've never cleaned my chain. And I certainly didn't remove the lube that came on the chain from Shimano Other than just wiping the outside off with a rag.

So I think my methods easier and produces the same chain life.

I can't see how removing a chain every 100 miles and putting it in a can and brushing something over it is easier than chain waxing. But if you're happy doing that, I'm not going to argue about it.

Until recently, I've used Squirt drip wax. Every ~200 miles I wipe the chain then add more Squirt. Never have been able to measure any chain wear. I'm sure it's there, but immeasurable after 5,000+ miles.

I recently went the Silca hot wax with strip chip route. Even easier as there's no extra step stripping factory lube off the chain. Other than the initial hot wax, I've been drip waxing every 200 miles or so. Much too early to comment on chain wear. But the chain stays relatively clean and quiet.

I live and ride where it is very dry, so I almost never get muddy water etc. on the bike. So, I'm sure this makes a big difference compared to those that get their bikes coated in dirt and grime every ride.

Ha! I am a terrible speller and never really looked at how it is spelled. My wife is laughing her butt off... Spell check does not work for this one.

That is a good one too...

I though it was gonna be about moonshine. What I grew up hearing about, "white lightnin'"....

The process does not remove the chain, hold the cup under the bottom section of the chain and then brush on the lubricant. Move the chain to the next section and repeat. Takes about 4 times. The cup is to collect the drippings. Crank backwards a bit when done and then wipe down.

Oh I see, I misunderstood what you said. It's still more effort than a quick wipe and applying more drip wax. But also, as I mentioned, those riding in much dirtier conditions than I will have different requirements.

You can use it to clean the chain, remove the paint from the frame and lining from your stomach.

I thought the thread was about me.

White Lightening was a HS nickname given to me by the girls. Fast on a bike, fast in the....

sometimes you need to lube your bike sometimes you need to lube yourself

since we're lubing ... is Greased Lightning in the neighborhood?

We ain't paid no whiskey tax since 1792.

Here in Far West Kentucky “White Lightning” has a totally different meaning.

I thought that as well, until I moved here and tried some from a very local guy. Smooth as spring water. Heck of a kick, though.

I have a great admiration for those who can brew such things...

But I think it should hurt. It should burn a hole in your soul. It at least gives you a warning.

That fancy stuff sneaks up on ya, gives you a great story that only others remember.

A well made moonshine should be nice and smooth and have good flavor if you want just hurt and burning get some Everclear or cheap Vodka or something but I would much rather have a nice high proof good tasting 'shine and that doesn't need to be fancy. From what I understand people like Popcorn Sutton made really good tasting moonshine but he was about as far from fancy as you could get.

As much as that Moonshiners show is fake as hell some of the ideas contained within are pretty neat. Some of the flavors and distillation methods look like they could make a pretty tasty product.

Today, they'd call you YT Lighten.

"The best way to do fill in the blank ", let alone "lube the chain" is like asking what's the best side to take on the Titanic. As if it matters ...... .

Well, 7 out of 23 comments were about lubing a chain, so there's that. 24 comments, now, for the nitpickers...

My experience is similar, and I’ve been using White Lightning Clean Ride for years. My original chain is still on my ‘22 Domane SL5 and showing no signs of significant wear after 4,500 miles. It also helps that I don’t ride where there’s a lot of grit or in wet conditions.