Did you really not find the end of the tape? I doubt that they are using molded rim strips.

The bike is in the city, and we are currently at the cottage. As previously stated, I only had time for a cursory inspection of the wheels, and I did not find a seam, nor was the "insert" consistent with the feel and look of the taped tires I am familiar with.

Looks like an integrated tubeless strip to me. Higher end Fulcrum and Campy are that way as are some rims of unknown manufacture that I have.

I don't have the wheels in front of me and didn't really look at them but I don't know what to do they are super complicated like I cannot understand how anyone could use them. It is like they are round but how is the round thing where is the hole. I ask AI but they don't know why the strip is a strip and where the thing is.

Nice executive summary.

The Botrager take off wheels looks to have the plastic rim strip system. Appears to be hard nylon.

Must be a slow morning at the cottage.

No doubt. That's kinda the point.

The point is to post on the Internets?

Sad.

Posting 10 plus times in a thread you claim to think stupid is sadder still.

lol.

I was obviously referring to the way you’re spending your time at the cottage. I’ll try to have more consideration for the reader next time.

lol.

Unfortunately, I had to postpone my overnight bike trip that was to start by train. Service cancelled, likely due to hurricane flooding expected along the coast, and the substitute bus service won’t take bikes.



So I came back home.


I’d try again tomorrow but I would have to hustle back Saturday for the Naked Bike Ride.

From last year.


Maybe I’ll try again on Sunday.

12 plus and a tedious anecdote.

lol

ill post the results of install in this thread if it doesn’t get closed first.

So did you find the tape yet?

The Botrager shown above has a raised section where the hole is.

Did you find an end to the tape yet? Or is it really just a continuous loop? That would be a new type of tubeless tape. I've always wondered if tubeless tape could be made out of heat-shrink material. You would just have a band of heat shrink material and you snap it onto the rim and heat shrink it to fit all the contours perfectly.

I haven’t got wheel in front of me. Had I known the frenzy this would cause some members, I would have given it a closer inspection.

it’s either a very good tape job or a shrink wrap type tape. My initial impression was it was a hard vinyl insert like the Botrager but there was no raised reinforcing square as seen in pic above.

The rock tossing in these threads just makes me despair. I thought better of you all

Its the General forum. There is little to no genuinely beneficial information that is learned and shared here. Its largely trolling, dunking, and mocking...by thread starters and thread responders.
This could be stopped by those who run the site, by ensuring the specific topic forums are utilized instead of General being a dumping ground.

Its popular because it is a dumping ground with a lot of eyeballs. Move this thread to the Mechanics forum and it will have 10% of the responses...which will disincentivize both people who start this sort of thread and people who snarkily respond to this sort of thread.

But clicks are valuable.

.

Like i said earlier, I have /had TL wheels that use no tape. Common on Campy and higher end Fulcrum wheels. This is a Fulcrum Racing Zero.

Agreed.

You must be new around here.

Yes, I knew about these. These are the best type of tubeless (or even clincher) wheels. I have a set of Mavic CrossRoc on my son's bike, Mavic Ksyrium on my bike and Shimano WH6700 on the garage floor. so I am familiar with this type of wheels with no holes in the rim bed. But this is a different thing than what Mike Deason is talking about.

Had you taken more than .00000001 of second to think you would have inspected the wheels or done the research before you bought the damn things. You are going off about us when you chose to not do the research and then chose not to look at the wheels and then chose to leave those wheels somewhere else and still complain about how they are too complicated and blah blah blah instead of just a quick glance or just follow my above instructions on how to poke a dang hole. You have way overcomplicated a very simple process.

From our AI overlords:

**An Exceedingly Detailed and Perplexingly Elaborate Protocol for the Precise Penetration of a Bicycle Rim Strip Intrinsically Mounted in the Wheel Assembly to Accommodate Tubeless Tape Passage, Without Detachment of the Rim Strip from Its Structural Mounting**

---

**Part I: Preparatory Environmental and Instrumental Calibration**

1. **Environmental Conditioning and Contextual Optimization:**

- Ascertain that your immediate environment is subjected to minimal vibrational oscillations, electromagnetic interferences, and extraneous disturbances—consider employing vibration-dampening surfaces, anti-static mats, and ambient light conditions conducive to fine manual dexterity. Confirm that the workspace's ambient temperature and humidity are within optimal ranges for delicate mechanical manipulation, avoiding static buildup or material expansion/contraction anomalies.

2. **Procurement, Inspection, and Validation of the Perforation Apparatus:**

- Select a micro-penetration implement—such as a fine-gauge needle, a micro-drill bit, or a pin—that possesses a diameter within a narrowly specified range, ideally between 0.5mm and 1mm, to ensure compatibility with the tubeless tape's dimensions and sealing requirements.

- Conduct a rigorous verification process of this instrument, including tactile assessment of sharpness, tip integrity, and absence of microfractures. If available, utilize microscopic magnification to confirm tip geometry and structural soundness.

3. **Preparation of the Wheel, Rim, and Rim Strip In Situ:**

- Carefully position the wheel assembly within a stable, non-slip, vibration-minimized fixture that permits unobstructed access to the rim's outer surface while maintaining the structural integrity of the mounted tire and rim strip.

- Conduct a comprehensive visual and tactile inspection of the rim and rim strip in situ, ensuring that the rim strip is correctly seated, free of damage, debris, residual adhesives, or deformation, and that its surface is clean and ready for perforation.

---

**Part II: Spatial Localization and Mechanical Stabilization**

4. **Locating the Ideal Perforation Site:**

- Utilize a precision measuring device—such as a digital caliper or a micrometer—to identify the optimal perforation locus on the rim strip, ideally positioned adjacent to the existing valve hole but sufficiently offset to preserve the structural integrity of the rim strip and maintain an effective seal.

- Mark this location with a fine, non-permanent marking method—such as a micro-dot of removable marker or micro-engraving—ensuring the mark's visibility without contaminating or compromising the rim strip's surface or adhesion qualities.

5. **Stabilization of the Rim Assembly and Rim Strip:**

- Employ a custom-fitted clamp, jig, or fixture designed explicitly for rim-mounted components to immobilize the wheel in a manner that prevents any movement during perforation, avoiding deformation or displacement.

- Apply uniform, gentle pressure—using padded, non-marring contact points—ensuring the rim strip remains taut, flat, and securely positioned to facilitate precise perforation without slipping or shifting.

---

**Part III: The Intricate Perforation Procedure Without Rim Strip Removal**

6. **Precise Alignment and Approach:**

- Grasp your micro-penetration implement with a precision grip—preferably using thumb and forefinger—ensuring optimal tactile control.

- Carefully align the tip of the instrument perpendicular to the surface of the rim strip at the pre-marked site, verifying that the approach vector is orthogonal to minimize irregularities and edge fraying.

7. **Controlled Perforation Execution:**

- Initiate the perforation by exerting a slow, measured, and incremental downward force—deliberately calibrated to breach the rim strip material without causing tearing or deformation—paying close attention to tactile feedback indicating initial penetration.

- Maintain unwavering perpendicularity throughout the process; if resistance increases or edge irregularities emerge, pause, reassess alignment, and adjust accordingly.

- Continue applying gentle, incremental force until the perforation traverses the entire thickness of the rim strip, being cautious to avoid excessive force that might cause tearing, fraying, or structural compromise.

8. **Perforation Completion and Edge Assessment:**

- Gently withdraw the instrument, maintaining the same perpendicular orientation to prevent elongation or irregularity of the aperture.

- Conduct a visual inspection—potentially augmented with magnification—to confirm that the perforation is clean, round, and free of ragged edges or residual frayed material.

- Ensure that the hole's dimensions are compatible with the passage of the tubeless tape and do not jeopardize the rim strip's sealing efficacy or structural integrity.

---

**Part IV: Final Steps and Reassembly Considerations**

9. **Post-Perforation Verification and Sealing Assurance:**

- Confirm that the perforation site aligns correctly with the valve hole or the required tape passage point, ensuring seamless integration during subsequent tubeless tape installation.

- Proceed with mounting the tire, applying tubeless tape, and completing the wheel assembly, with particular attention to the perforation's effect on the sealant's containment and the overall integrity of the tubeless system.

The Apply Tape option wasn’t a priority or a major selling feature.

looked like I got nylon inserts without the enforcement square like is on the take off Botgragers is all. No big deal. Y’all can relax.


.