Patching tubes
09-11-25 | 09:31 AM
#26
Passista
Joined: Jul 2005
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Bikes: 1998 Pinarello Asolo, 1992 KHS Montaña pro, 1980 Raleigh DL-1, IGH Hybrid, IGH Utility
I tried to find my earlier post on the process I use when I patch hundreds of tubes per year with a 95+% success rate. But BikeForum's search function is as useless as usual. But I do have the photo of the battery-powered dremel with the sanding drum attachment that makes the most important step so much easier. Used it tonight, in fact.
(pulls out soapbox)
Proper and thorough tube surface preparation is by far the most important step - much more important than patch or fluid brand, post-application rolling, etc. There must be clean dark black exposed virgin rubber for the entire patch surface and a bit extra around the edges to be sure. Skimping or skipping this step, as I've seen so many others do, is almost a guarantee of failure and muttering of "all patch kits suck" or "this kit or brand isn't any good". The dremel admittedly makes it very easy to complete in seconds. But if you have to do it by hand, it's all too easy for people to get tired of all the repetitions and pressure needed to get a large enough and clean enough surface - and so they say "good enough", apply the fluid and the patch, and then find out they wasted all that time and effort due to a faulty bond due to insufficient prep.
(puts away soapbox)
(pulls out soapbox)
Proper and thorough tube surface preparation is by far the most important step - much more important than patch or fluid brand, post-application rolling, etc. There must be clean dark black exposed virgin rubber for the entire patch surface and a bit extra around the edges to be sure. Skimping or skipping this step, as I've seen so many others do, is almost a guarantee of failure and muttering of "all patch kits suck" or "this kit or brand isn't any good". The dremel admittedly makes it very easy to complete in seconds. But if you have to do it by hand, it's all too easy for people to get tired of all the repetitions and pressure needed to get a large enough and clean enough surface - and so they say "good enough", apply the fluid and the patch, and then find out they wasted all that time and effort due to a faulty bond due to insufficient prep.
(puts away soapbox)
09-11-25 | 10:48 AM
#28
Senior Member
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From: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Bikes: Kirk Custom JK Special, 86 De Rosa Pro, '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) 80?? SR Semi-Pro 600 Arabesque
baking soda is for cyanoacrylic glues (super glue)
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Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can.
09-11-25 | 11:45 AM
#29
Old fart
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Appleton WI
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Rema, FTW. As others have noted, don't skimp on surface prep. That includes allowing the vulcanizing fluid to completely dry before applying the patch. And use a patch roller or burnishing stick to force out any air bubbles under the patch.
Bike shops don't typically patch tubes simply because it's not cost-effective for them. Most of the shop's cost in patching or replacing a tube is labor, and avoiding the labor cost of surface prep and patch application makes a new tube more cost-effective than patching. But if you're doing your own work, it makes sense to patch.
Bike shops don't typically patch tubes simply because it's not cost-effective for them. Most of the shop's cost in patching or replacing a tube is labor, and avoiding the labor cost of surface prep and patch application makes a new tube more cost-effective than patching. But if you're doing your own work, it makes sense to patch.
09-11-25 | 12:58 PM
#31
Disco Infiltrator
Joined: May 2013
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From: Folsom CA
Bikes: Stormchaser, Paramount, Tilt, Samba tandem
The $7 tube with a hole in it? that's in your garage where you keep your Dremel? go ahead and practice
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Genesis 49:16-17
"Well, well!" said Holmes, impatiently. "A good cyclist does not need a high road. The moor is intersected with paths and the moon is at the full."
Genesis 49:16-17
"Well, well!" said Holmes, impatiently. "A good cyclist does not need a high road. The moor is intersected with paths and the moon is at the full."
09-11-25 | 01:07 PM
#32
Disco Infiltrator
Joined: May 2013
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From: Folsom CA
Bikes: Stormchaser, Paramount, Tilt, Samba tandem
I don't know if it's still available because it had warnings printed all over it, but the glue brands used to sell accelerator that you sprayed on. (edit - yep and the bottle even looks the same as it did 35 years ago)
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Genesis 49:16-17
"Well, well!" said Holmes, impatiently. "A good cyclist does not need a high road. The moor is intersected with paths and the moon is at the full."
Genesis 49:16-17
"Well, well!" said Holmes, impatiently. "A good cyclist does not need a high road. The moor is intersected with paths and the moon is at the full."
Last edited by Darth Lefty; 09-11-25 at 01:23 PM.
09-12-25 | 01:43 PM
#33
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
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I've used the benchmark Rema glue and patches as well as Park, Slime, and totally generic bulk stuff from EBay. They all have worked equally well given proper prep and the location on the tube. Some locations, like near the stem, or sometimes the raised seam on some tubes, are just hard to patch. But given a clean, roughed surface and proper applicaiton of the patch, They all work fine. My latest strategy is to buy a whole bunch of tiny (like the size in Rema patch kits) genaric patch glue tubes from EBay because they tend to dry out before they're used up. They aren't exactly one use tubes, but I don't mind if they turn out to be.
Last edited by Camilo; 09-12-25 at 01:59 PM.
09-12-25 | 03:07 PM
#34
Cantilever believer
Joined: Nov 2021
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From: Phoenix, AZ
I will note that Slime sells a larger jar of fluid that is labeled as "rubber cement" but has an ingredients list matching vulcanizing fluid. The smell is also consistent with that of vulcanizing fluid. I've used it with Rema patches with results identical to the Rema fluid so far. Note that the only reason I bought the Slime brand was because a friend was selling a bunch of cans at the bike swap and I just couldn't turn down the price.
Here in hot Arizona, an opened 3g, 5g, or 7g tube of fluid will usually dry up in 6-12 months if left untouched in a covered place such as a patch kit box, even with the cap screwed on tight. Unopened sealed tubes also have a history of drying up and becoming unusable in 4-7 years. You'd think this was unlikely given their sealed status, but apparently the lighter aromatic fractions can gradually pass through even "sealed" seams in the tube given enough time.
Here in hot Arizona, an opened 3g, 5g, or 7g tube of fluid will usually dry up in 6-12 months if left untouched in a covered place such as a patch kit box, even with the cap screwed on tight. Unopened sealed tubes also have a history of drying up and becoming unusable in 4-7 years. You'd think this was unlikely given their sealed status, but apparently the lighter aromatic fractions can gradually pass through even "sealed" seams in the tube given enough time.
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Richard C. Moeur, PE - Phoenix AZ, USA
https://www.richardcmoeur.com/bikestuf.html
Richard C. Moeur, PE - Phoenix AZ, USA
https://www.richardcmoeur.com/bikestuf.html
09-13-25 | 11:15 AM
#35
Senior Member
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09-13-25 | 11:32 AM
#36
Mad bike riding scientist
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From: Denver, CO
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
I will note that Slime sells a larger jar of fluid that is labeled as "rubber cement" but has an ingredients list matching vulcanizing fluid. The smell is also consistent with that of vulcanizing fluid. I've used it with Rema patches with results identical to the Rema fluid so far. Note that the only reason I bought the Slime brand was because a friend was selling a bunch of cans at the bike swap and I just couldn't turn down the price.
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Stuart Black
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Stuart Black
Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
09-13-25 | 12:13 PM
#37
Klaatu..Verata..Necktie?
Joined: May 2007
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From: SF Bay Area
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I gave up on roadside glue-type patches years ago. I keep a spare tube and Park stick-on patches in my saddle bag. It's a couple years since I needed to use any of the instant patches. I USED TO patch tubes and reuse them, but then one failed after a couple months. It was on a wheel-on trainer, not the road, fortunately. But that put me off of patching tubes for reuse, because it could have happened while I was descending at > 30 mph.
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"Don't take life so serious-it ain't nohow permanent."
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09-13-25 | 12:37 PM
#38
SE Wis
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09-13-25 | 01:15 PM
#39
Senior Member
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The Rema vulcanizing fluid lists N-ethylcyclohexylamine in addition to hexane and a heavy naphtha. Slime’s rubber cement lists only hydrocarbons. The N-ethylcyclohexylamine is a promoter for the vulcanizing process. I have an old post on the topic. The link to the Nocil article is dead but I found a copy of it if you want more details.
