I need some info for the Thule 916 XTR, please. This doesn't apply to the "PRO" model. I need the total length of the shank, the part that fits into the 2" receiver on the vehicle. It should be around 18", Hopefully and I need the measurement from the center of the hitch pin hole to the end of the shank. I should be 1.5" but some Thule racks are as much as 3".
Thank you in advance.

My Thule original T2 2” (before they called they renamed it the T2 Classic) has 2 1/2” from center of hole to end of shank. Total length of shank is 18” x 2” as you mentioned.




Barry

Have you reached out to Thule? They’re usually pretty responsive in my experience.

Thank you!!! Can you tell me what wall thickness the shank is? I think it is !/8 but it could be 3/16....

They can not or will not supply the needed specs. They didn't sell the shank individually. It was part of a $200+ part they wanted to sell you so you could change out to a 2" hitch. The part they wanted to sell you has been discontinued and is extremely rare and hard to find. They 917XTR, the little brother to the 916XTR, has a solid steel stinger and Thule didn't made an adapter (2") for it so you were stuck with buying the $200+ piece. All that is needed was the 2" shank. Everything else was the same. So, I'm going to make my own. It's fairly easy. 1 piece of 2" square tubing 18" long, drill 6 holes, spot weld a hitch pin nut and Bob's your uncle!

The shank is not exactly a precision piece of kit. All four sides measure slightly different..... It's basically 1/8" (0.125")
Pick some decent steel, especially if you plan to load it up, for example with ebikes or the +2 bike extension (total 4 bikes).

Depending on the vehicle the Thule threaded hitch draw bolt may prove to be too short.
Example, some of the 2023+ Toyota Sequoia models have a box around the hitch and require a longer bolt.
I hear some Subaru models too.
Rocky Mounts to the rescue. They sell a hitch draw bolt 15mm longer and intended for their own racks, but it's the same threading as my Thule T2 and worked for me.

Barry

Thank you!! We are going to use 3/16 wall simply because thats all my buddy had. It's the standard thickness for a trailer so strength wont be a concern. We hope we wont have any issues with pressing in the brass inserts. If the threaded hitch pin turns out to be too short, I will buy another one that will fit the 2". The threads should be the same size, They are 12mm but not quite sure what pitch. I have a '15 4Runner. Some of the Subarus had a very shallow receiver hitch too but my Toyota has 3+" so I shouldn't have any issues there.
I can not express how much I appreciate your help!!

Just so you know up front......
3/16" wall tube will stop you ever using the +2 bike extension.

I've got the extension and use the T2 more with it, than without it.

Barry

So should I have used 1/4? Also would you happen to know which way the "bearing" installs on the ratcheting arm?

This way

Or this way

1/4” is thicker than 3/16”….. if you ever want to use the 2 bike extension you need 1/8” tube.

Bearing orientation, no idea, never disassembled the bearings.

Barry

ok, I'm confused. Why would using 3/16" wall on the stinger prevent me from using the +2 bike extension? the extension attaches to the backbone which is 1/8" not the stinger also the stock stinger is 1/8" wall I,m using 3/16" which is thicker and stronger

The stock tube that is the attachment to the vehicle is 2”.
Taking into account the 1/8” wall thickness, the internal dimension is 1.75” x 1.75”

The 2 bike extension is the same sized 2” tubing.
To join the two half’s together it has a length of 1.75x1.75 welded into it.
It is this joiner that slips into the rack and is held in with two large bolts.

If you choose to use a thicker walled tubing, the joiner will not slip in.

Barry