Don't waste money on expensive gloves.

You're right. I should have added not to push too hard on the cotton ball while running it around inside your tire or you'll end up needing a bandaid.

Keep your spare tube wrapped up in a zip lock baggie with some baby powder in it. Then when you change a flat you can run some of the powder around the inside of the tire. Makes changing a tire faster.

Shouldn't this be in the Exchanging Atoms With A Beloved Bike thread? Any part of a bike can exchange
atoms with you.

I like the putting spare spokes inside of the seat tube. A very handy use for an under utilized area.

I like little fresh lemon wedges in the waterbottle. Much better than tasting plastic.
A small wash cloth really helps to wipe sweat and grime from the face on a long ride.
A second blinkie light in the rear provides insured visability if one fails.

I prefer white or reflective tape for holding lighting system wires in place. For those light wires I split open 18/3 or 16/3 cable and use the inner wires. They are much more flexible than most single lead wire and can form around frame members. Those velcro ties work fine for ensuring that your frame-fit pump doesn't come of on bad roads.

-1 on the expensive gloves. I have always bought my gloves from a big bicycle chain store that I would not name. I always spend around $20-$25 or so on gloves, but they do not last. I started buying my gloves at REI, and I have been impressed with their gloves. The REI gloves are about $26-$30, better constructed and made of much better materials . They thus last longer and are more comfortable than the "cheapos" I used to buy.

In my biking experience, one should not scrimp on all areas where your body has contact with the bike. Thus no scrimping on gloves, saddles and shoes. Shoes especially, should have hard-enough soles, and good, solid gloves are worth their weight in gold.

1. At sunset or sunrise, remember that your shadow is pointing in the general direction the car will be coming from that doesn't see you and subsequently runs you over. If you don't see your shadow, be alert for cars behind you.

If your shadow is in front of you, be alert to cars in front of you.

2. On your winter bike, have a wheel/tire combo that allows the tire to go off/on easily. It's no fun to be struggling to get a tire off a rim when your fingers are frozen.

White spray paint (or even some White-out) on tire irons, wrenches, all those damn black tools. Make them easier to find when you have to work in the dark, or even on a dark floor at home.

Why do they make everything for bikes black? I spend hours looking for the tire irons every time I change a flat.

So do I and mine are yellow.

Do you value your eyesight as much as I value mine?

The best eye protection when not wearing sunnies (at night, dusk, dawn, overcast) are clear polycarbonate safety glasses from your hardware store - cheap and easily replaced, many even offer UV protection! I wouldn't ride without them.

I keep a pair of latex gloves with my spare tube, saves me getting chain grease all over my hands and therefore on handlebar tape, ****ers, gloves, clothes, etc.....

When there is nothing else around to use, spit (your own!) works nicely at getting black, oily grime from a chain off your hands? Spit liberally on the black stuff and rub well and wipe.

Where to wipe the spit-upon hands? Well your shorts are black, aren't they? There is a reason lots and lots of bicycle shorts are black. . .

(1) Patching tubes on the road sucks. So I carry two tubes, in addition to the patch kit, tire irons and pump. I patch my punctured tubes at home, bu I haven't had to patch a tube on the road in a long time.

(2) On longish climbs, slide your butt back on the saddle for some extra power. Also, every so often, shift up a gear and stand for few pedal strokes. This is not for the power, although you will generate some additional power at the cost, but just to change the muscles you are using for a little bit. Don't stand for too long (unless you are racing or training to race) because it takes more energy to stand and pedal than it does to sit and pedal. But standing for a short while every so often is like a mini-break for the leg muscles that are going to do the bulk of the work getting you up the climb.

(3) Never, never, never try out a new part, new clothes, new anything in a major event ride. The day you are going for your first century ride or that race you've been targeting all season is not the time to wear a new pair of shorts or break in a new set of brakes. It is a recipe for unpleasant surprises. The same appies to races, tours, etc. Try out the new stuff on a routine ride where it will not be the end of the world if a problem comes up.

When in rural and X-burb areas,watch the mailbox numbers descend.Cheap but does help keep you going.If you're really lost, look at mail to confirm town.
When adjusting brakes or changing cable.Pull lever 10 times, then retighten the cable one final time.

Trade gear with your buddys. We all have items that we dont use, let new riders have your cast offs and your friends will do the same . You will get to try all kinds of things that you may never have bought. Seats tires and pedals, if your not useing it lend it out or trade it for something you need/want !

If you're real tired, concentrate on exhaling instead of inhaling. Also focus your cranking on the upstroke instead of the downstroke. And look behind you down the hill, rather than ahead and up the hill.

In other words, think about the easy part and forget about the hard part.

+1 on the shower cap for helmet cover, the hotel disposables don't take up any room and keep rain or cold wind off your noggin .

+1 on the latex gloves, easier to carry a few than figure out how to get that gunk off your hands after on-road service (spit not being my favorite option) .

The little single pack 'wet naps' from Hooters or your favorite messy food establishment, carry a half dozen for face freshening, hand cleaning (if you don't carry latex gloves) and disinfecting the 'naughty bits' after a ride if you can't get changed right away .

Cheap wrap around 'Terminator' style safety glasses in dark shades for going over the top of prescription glasses. The big side shields block both light and wind better than any clip-ons .

B'Dog

Agreed.

I get mine at Work-n-More. Leather, insulated flagger's gloves with an orange panel w/reflective stripe on the backhand side. Soak some Sno-Seal into them. Tough as nails for $11.95

Zip bag with some toilet paper. It's no fun squatting in the bushes and having to use a sock or sword grass.

Ream n Klean pipe cleaners really help clean chains. Fold them in half and they get between the links really well. It takes a little time but I've never had to take the chain off to clean it amd my drivetrain is spotless. Yes, clean stuff really shifts better.

Look around carefully while cycling. Lots of beautiful sights that those in cars will miss.

+about a billion. Your first century in about 15 years is not the time to try a new saddle. I speak with experience. A familiar PITA is much better than the new felling of a flamingly hot painful @$$!!

If you ride a lot, you really should wear cycling clothes and be ten times more comfortable. But always remember that you can ride in regular clothes if you ever have to.

CHECK THOSE SPOKES!

True your own wheels...

Then build your own!