Slicks Vs Tred ?
#1
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Slicks Vs Tred ?
hello all. (newbie here). appologies if this is a rehash
We all know that Slicks make for a smoother and faster ride in fair wheather. However, if i was to purchase a flat-bar road bike fitted with slicks and used it for communting and fitness, will i put myself at risk in the wet?
Are there gradients of tires between tred and slick to enable slick performance but safety through the wet and dry, that can be fitted to a road bike wheel?
i worry as i have had knee issues in the past and can't risk a slip/crash that will further damage my knees.
Any particular recomendations?
Cheers
Andy
We all know that Slicks make for a smoother and faster ride in fair wheather. However, if i was to purchase a flat-bar road bike fitted with slicks and used it for communting and fitness, will i put myself at risk in the wet?
Are there gradients of tires between tred and slick to enable slick performance but safety through the wet and dry, that can be fitted to a road bike wheel?
i worry as i have had knee issues in the past and can't risk a slip/crash that will further damage my knees.
Any particular recomendations?
Cheers
Andy
#2
Slicks are fine for paved road, whether wet or dry.
For your reading pleasure, please peruse these two articles on Sheldon Brown's site, one by Jobst Brandt.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/slicks.html
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html
For your reading pleasure, please peruse these two articles on Sheldon Brown's site, one by Jobst Brandt.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/slicks.html
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html
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#3
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Mesa, AZ
Bikes: Moots RCS, tandem, beach-cruiser, MTB, Specialized-Allez road-bike, custom track-bike
Originally Posted by AWAcycle
Are there gradients of tires between tred and slick to enable slick performance but safety through the wet and dry, that can be fitted to a road bike wheel?
What WILL injure you on the bike is using big-gears and mashing (pushing low-RPMs). So practice spinning smoothly and quickly in low gears. This reduces peak loads on your knee and muscles as much as possible for any given speed. Having your seat too low and too far back will also cause more strain on the knees, so have your bike fitted by a pro shop.
Also, crashing while riding is a skills issue. Practice picking the straightest line through corners so that you can keep the bike as upright as possible. Rolling off the edge of the tyre will cause to you crash regardless of slick or treaded tyre. Practice maximum-effort braking and keeping the rear-tyre on the ground; you'll never know when you have to do an emergency braking maneuver.
Finally, learn to ride and interact with others. Other bikers on the road & bike paths and in groups. Dealing with cars requires unspoken communications. Definitive, assertive and even aggressive actions are safest to let drivers know exactly what your intentions are. If you hesitate, wait too long to take right-of-way, swerve, etc., you can end up bumping heads in avoidance moves and the car will always win....
Have fun!
Last edited by DannoXYZ; 09-21-06 at 12:00 AM.
#4
tread and knobbies are a little safer on loose gravel, that's about it for road riding.
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#7
Faster but still slow
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Jersey
Bikes: Trek 830 circa 1993 and a Fuji WSD Finest 1.0 2006
Just to add a little something....bicycle tires cannot hydroplane like car tires will. You need to be going well over 150 mph on a bike tire before it will hydroplane. They are perfectly safe in the rain.
#8
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From: Mesa, AZ
Bikes: Moots RCS, tandem, beach-cruiser, MTB, Specialized-Allez road-bike, custom track-bike
yeah, I think it was Jobst Brand that calculated that one. It of course depends upon weight on and pressure & width of the tyre. I seem to recall a number of 175mph or some such.





