How can I increase my caedence?
#3
Originally posted by Crazy Cyclist
I ride a mountain bike, and I want to increase my cadence so that I can go faster, does anyone have any suggestions?
I ride a mountain bike, and I want to increase my cadence so that I can go faster, does anyone have any suggestions?
#5
Go one gear(in the back) easier than you normally ride but keep the speed the same.
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#7
road siklista

Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,469
Likes: 0
From: Perlas ng Silanganan
Bikes: Custom Knolly Chilcotin Limited Edition Orange, Dartmoor Wish, KHS 7500, Custom built Specialized Camber, S-Works Road, Cannondale Trail mtb, Polini MTB
practice... practice...
the technique is not getting faster(overall speed).. but pedal lighter, thus higher rpm..
the technique is not getting faster(overall speed).. but pedal lighter, thus higher rpm..
#9
Donating member

Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: Bowie, MD
Make sure the bike really fits - especially make sure that your seat height is ok.
If your seat height is off, especially if it is too tall, you will really see a difference at higher cadence. If the seat height is too tall, you will really wobble as your hips will have to rock to let your foot reach down for the bottom of the stroke.
I would think if the seat is too low, you might feel more pain at higher cadence, or something like that.........
If your seat height is off, especially if it is too tall, you will really see a difference at higher cadence. If the seat height is too tall, you will really wobble as your hips will have to rock to let your foot reach down for the bottom of the stroke.
I would think if the seat is too low, you might feel more pain at higher cadence, or something like that.........
#10
What helped me with my mountain biking more than anything was getting a road bike. You would be amazed at how much riding a road bike helps with cadence. Not to mention that it makes you much stronger riding hills.
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#11
Spawn of Satan

Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 765
Likes: 1
From: Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA
-Physically remove your big chainring
-Get a cadence sensor (one that stores info like the Polar 720 is great if you can afford it)
-Ride a fixed gear with low gearing (60-70)
-Make yourself shift down a gear every time you get "comfortable"
Eventually you will get used to the faster leg speed and this will seem normal.
-Get a cadence sensor (one that stores info like the Polar 720 is great if you can afford it)
-Ride a fixed gear with low gearing (60-70)
-Make yourself shift down a gear every time you get "comfortable"
Eventually you will get used to the faster leg speed and this will seem normal.
#13
Year-round cyclist

Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,023
Likes: 3
From: Montréal (Québec)
Any kind of simple cyclocomputer will do, and strictly speaking, any watch will do.
Set the cyclocomputer so it displays either elapsed time or real time (with seconds).
Count the number of full revolutions you do. For example, count the number of downstrokes by the right pedal in 30 seconds, then multiply by 2.
On a more irregular course, count for 15 seconds and multiply by 4.
With a cyclocomputer, you will also be able to witness your instant speed. It's nice to see that when you travel at 45-50 rpm, your speed will be 15 km/h, but that when you spin at 80-90 rpm, your speed will be 25 km/h, without any more physical effort (so it seems). Call this instant gratification!
Measure first your typical RPM, then, if it's low, focus on increasing your RPM by 10. Then keep that level for a few weeks and try another increase.
Generally speaking, 60 rpm is considered an absolute minimum in terms of long-term comfort and efficiency. Cyclotourists are likely to spin at 70-90 rpm, while racers will go in the low 100s (more tiring but faster). These RPMs are typical values on the flats, but everyone is a bit different and hills, off-road and other "strange" conditions might influence the value.
Once you have an "efficient" and comfortable spin, focus on keeping the same speed under difficult conditions. For instance, when there is a headwind, lower your gear -- use your lowest if necessary -- so you can spin at the same RPM! Spinning at 80 rpm when towing the child trailer in a strong headwind (like I did for 40 km last Sunday) is not really more tiring. It just takes more time and it is a bit more discouraging, but at least, one doesn't get sore knees, feet and leg muscles...
Regards
Set the cyclocomputer so it displays either elapsed time or real time (with seconds).
Count the number of full revolutions you do. For example, count the number of downstrokes by the right pedal in 30 seconds, then multiply by 2.
On a more irregular course, count for 15 seconds and multiply by 4.
With a cyclocomputer, you will also be able to witness your instant speed. It's nice to see that when you travel at 45-50 rpm, your speed will be 15 km/h, but that when you spin at 80-90 rpm, your speed will be 25 km/h, without any more physical effort (so it seems). Call this instant gratification!
Measure first your typical RPM, then, if it's low, focus on increasing your RPM by 10. Then keep that level for a few weeks and try another increase.
Generally speaking, 60 rpm is considered an absolute minimum in terms of long-term comfort and efficiency. Cyclotourists are likely to spin at 70-90 rpm, while racers will go in the low 100s (more tiring but faster). These RPMs are typical values on the flats, but everyone is a bit different and hills, off-road and other "strange" conditions might influence the value.
Once you have an "efficient" and comfortable spin, focus on keeping the same speed under difficult conditions. For instance, when there is a headwind, lower your gear -- use your lowest if necessary -- so you can spin at the same RPM! Spinning at 80 rpm when towing the child trailer in a strong headwind (like I did for 40 km last Sunday) is not really more tiring. It just takes more time and it is a bit more discouraging, but at least, one doesn't get sore knees, feet and leg muscles...
Regards
#14
Newbie

Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
are you using a cyclocomputer with cadence (real cadence, not virtual cadenca a la the flitedeck)? That continuous readout can really pressure you to be attentive.
Also, try to do some riding where you do not let yourself shift to the big ring up front.
Also, try to do some riding where you do not let yourself shift to the big ring up front.
#15
Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: Auckland, New Zealand
All of these ideas are excellent.
I ride a road bike, and I'm known for spinning at over 100rpm for most of my riding. The way I have trained myself is to use the lowest gear you can manage without bouncing on the seat. Also I have tried many seat heights and found one that suits me just right.
I do my cadence practice at school training sessions, and do my big gear (resistance) training commuting to and from school (in the mornings I am ALWAYS late and afternoons someone normally wants to race me and get their a$$ kicked).
Just my 2 cents.
I ride a road bike, and I'm known for spinning at over 100rpm for most of my riding. The way I have trained myself is to use the lowest gear you can manage without bouncing on the seat. Also I have tried many seat heights and found one that suits me just right.
I do my cadence practice at school training sessions, and do my big gear (resistance) training commuting to and from school (in the mornings I am ALWAYS late and afternoons someone normally wants to race me and get their a$$ kicked).
Just my 2 cents.








