"Bootless" Shocks?
#1
"Bootless" Shocks?
Is there an advantage to "bootless" shocks? I'm not sure if that's the correct term for them, but I'm referring to shocks that don't have a rubber "boot" type thing over the shock. It seems like mostly the higher end shocks are "bootless" - is there an advantage to this?
EDIT:
Boot:

VS
Bootless:
EDIT:
Boot:

VS
Bootless:
Last edited by CeleronXL; 07-10-03 at 07:58 PM.
#2
The "bootless" shocks supposedly have better seals to keep the dust/dirt out. I've found that the ones I've had with boots just seem to keep the crud inside better though. I cut them off or take them off when I service them.
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#4
Originally posted by Dirtgrinder
The "bootless" shocks supposedly have better seals to keep the dust/dirt out. I've found that the ones I've had with boots just seem to keep the crud inside better though. I cut them off or take them off when I service them.
The "bootless" shocks supposedly have better seals to keep the dust/dirt out. I've found that the ones I've had with boots just seem to keep the crud inside better though. I cut them off or take them off when I service them.
#5
Just start at one end with a knife and cut to the other end. They'll come right off. You could probably even use scissors.
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#7
Yep. Top to bottom or bottom to top. You can probably start in the middle and work your way towards the end. Then when you get close to the end you can just pull it apart the last little bit. Just be careful not to scratch the stancheon tube underneath. There's plenty of room to work though.
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#8
Originally posted by Dirtgrinder
Yep. Top to bottom or bottom to top. You can probably start in the middle and work your way towards the end. Then when you get close to the end you can just pull it apart the last little bit. Just be careful not to scratch the stancheon tube underneath. There's plenty of room to work though.
Yep. Top to bottom or bottom to top. You can probably start in the middle and work your way towards the end. Then when you get close to the end you can just pull it apart the last little bit. Just be careful not to scratch the stancheon tube underneath. There's plenty of room to work though.
#11
I ride a REAL Schwinn!

Joined: May 2002
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From: NH, USA
Bikes: Lemond Nevada City (stock), '00 Schwinn Moab 3 (very upgraded)
Just to reiterate what Dirtgrinder said - You definitely don't want to be scratching the stanchion tube (the part of the fork covered by the boot) while slicing them the fork boots off.
-Moab
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