I am now looking for clipless pedals and want to know the difference.

Are there any advantages of one type over another?
What are my options?
Is feel the only difference?

I see a lot of pedals say SPD compatible is this the best type or the basic entry level type?

Your comments would be appreciated.


***EDITED*** For Spelling

you would be best off not to get the cheapest of the cheapie entry pedals. no use in spending $50 on something youre going to need to upgrade next year anyway.

There are tons of different clipless pedal systems on the market. Are you talking about pedals that are specific to the road or the mountain? Road pedals are often one-sided and shaped differently than the standard mountain pedal. They also require different cleats than what you would use on a mountain pedal. There are some exception, such as the eggbeaters. Mountain pedals can be used on the road. I run Shimano SPD's on both my new road bike and my mountain bike so that I can use the same shoes for the time being. When I get the money, I'll get a nice pair of road pedals and shoes, but the SPD's work fine on the road bike for now.

You mentioned SPD, so I'l assume you are looking at something for the mountain bike. SPD's range in price from something like $30 to over $100. SPD's are popular because they are easy to maintain and learn how to clip in with. They offer adjustment of the retention of the jaws, so you decide how easy or hard it is to unclip. I don't know a whole lot about road pedals, so I'll let someone with more road biking experience answer that one. Some of the big companies in the mountain bike clipless business are Shimano (SPD system), Crank Brothers (eggbeaters), Time (Attacks), and Wellgo (Copy other manufacturer's designs and sell them cheaper, but you get what you pay for in most cases). I'd say the SPD's are the most common on the trails, at least from the riders I have met up with. I run SPD's on both my mountain and road bike to simplify switching over. SPD stands for "Shimano Pedaling Dynamics." I refers to the cleat/jaw system that locks the shoe to the pedal. Most all clipless shoes meant for mountain biking will be compatible with SPD cleats. Some might require a little trimming of the tread to allow for clearance for the pedal system - no big deal. SPD-R is Shimano's road clipless system. It entails different shaped pedals and a different cleat design.

Crank Brothers recently (ok not so recently now) came out with a clipless pedal system that they call eggbeaters. These are unique in the way that they are open to being clipped in on four sides instead of two like other mountain clipless systems. Their openness allows for great mud clearance will clipping in. It takes some time to get used to because you can't simply push your foot forward like SPD's, but a person I ride with likes them better than anything else he has used. The same eggbeater pedals are popular on the road and the mountain. Crank Brothers makes a small rubber device to keep the cleats from clicking while walking with road shoes.

I don't have much experience with the Attacks, though I've heard many people like them and have had good success with them. I'm sure someone here can comment on them, and you can check out www.mtbr.com for reviews. They use a different cleat than do the SPD's and the eggbeaters.

Speedplay also has a pedal line worth looking at. These are unique because they allow the rider to adjust for lots of float. Got knee problems? You might want to check these out. They look cool too.

You will want to look for certain things when buying any clipless brand. The first is how important weight is to you. Some clipless systems might feel heavy when holding them in your hand, but will stand up to anything on the trail. Remember, these things will be bashed of rocks, roots, and be one of the first things to hit the ground in some falls. I would stay away from the clipless pedals that come with a platform pedal on one side and a clipless system on the other because the plastic pedal will snap off in no time with some trail riding. You'll also want to look at mud clearance. Does it look like mud will fall through or be easily cleared by the shoe and cleat in muddy conditions?Any pedal could clog with the heaviest of muck, but it's nice to be able to get a solid clip-in in muddy conditions, especially if you plan on racing. A larger metal platform around the jaws will provide you with a larger place to rest your foot if you have to negotiate a section unclipped (an example would be Shimano's 536's compared to its 515's.) You also need to look at price. You usually get what you pay for. $70+ is worth it for some nice clipless pedals, but doesn't mean you would find a nice pair for less somewhere. I haven't had good experience with Wellgo's pedals.
*Not positive, but I don't think Times or Eggbeaters have retention screw adjutments, meaning the pedal is set at one point for good as to how difficult it is to unclip. Please correct me if I am wrong on this point.

When buying shoes, make sure they are compatible with the clipless system you chose. Most should be, but it doesn't hure to make sure. As for shoes, I found Specialized body Geometry shoes to be extremely uncomfortable on longer or intense rides. I picked up a pair of nice Shimanos this year and haven't had any problems over several longer rides with intense pedaling efforts.

phew....I'm done but I'm sure thats not everything...If you are looking for something for the road, then some of this doesn't apply. I'll let someone who does more road riding explain the systems, though much of the info could still apply.

You might also want to search the forums for topics about clipless systems. There have been countless questions about which is the best and how to practice with them so that it becomes second nature to clip in and out. Clipless pedals, in my opinion, are pretty much the single most important uprade to make to your bike. You will notice a big improvement in your riding with a nice set of clipless pedals.


-Moab

First of all, the word you want is "there," which is a pronoun, not "their," which is an adjective; secondly, "advantages" is plural, so you must employ the third person plural present indicative "are," rather than the third person singular present indicative "is."

Are there advantages? Yes. It would be useful to know, however, whether you mean road or MTB clipless pedal systems. Those two systems have relative advantages and disadvantages, and within each category, there are numerous variations, each with their advantages and disadvantages.

Your options break down thus:

Road:
Look
Time
Shimano
Speedplay
Egg Beaters

MTB:
Shimano SPD
SPD clones (Ritchey, Wellgo)
Time ATAC
Speedplay Frogs
Egg Beaters

There are other variations, but these are the most common. Each system does have a different feel.

I bought Shimano M515's for both my road and MTB. THey are around $50, I can't forsee any reason to replace them in a year. They are the SPD type pedals. I also bought Answer Pallisade shoes. I bought all the above online which will help save a lot of money. The pedals I got from pricepoint.com, and I forget where I ordered the shoes from. You can get both for just under $100 online.

I recommend Crank Bros Egg Beaters if you can get a good deal on them, I got mine for around $50-$60 at Nashbar.com. They will work for both road & mtn. They are easy to get in and out of as they have 4 sides. They are quite simple mechanically so should be reliable.

I had tried some cheaper clip-in pedals (Nashbar brand) before I got the egg beaters but they locked up and I had to send them back. I also have used power-grips (a type of strap) which were not bad (better than toe-clips but not as good as clip-in pedals). They are easy to get out out of but slow to get into and don't feel as secure as clip-ins.

I'm really happy with the Egg Beaters and would recommend them without hesitation.

If you have a road bike, go with Look. I think spds are to difficult for first time users becaude they're so small. I know, they take a while to get used too. With Looks, once you get the hang of it, you can clip in without even looking. (no pun intended)

I prefer Look-type pedals as well.

Just curious - the Shimano SPD SL pedal is a Look-type pedal as well, although the cleat is slightly different. Therefore, I'm guessing the generic use of the term SPD can be confusing?

I'd assume that they use the "SPD" moniker to keep people from getting them confused with the earlier Look/Shimano pedals (which were actually made by Look and use Look cleats).

dude chill out. its the internet. you know what hes saying.. just answer his questions, no need to be a spelling nazi

Speedplay all the way! (Wow, I'm a poet and I didn't even know it).

They are great because you can enter from either side without having to flip it right side up. Their easy to get in and out of yet they do not unexpectedly release when you crank on them like all the others do. They have the best clearance of all pedals and they are great on your knees.

Chill out? I could let one error go [and I'm not at all offended by typos and colloquialisms], but two in the same sentence are a bit much. I'm not inclined to tolerate illiteracy. If I see it, I will correct it.

peloton is correct. anything worth doing is worth doing well. maybe i would have let the grammatical errors go, but personally i find the grammatical errors to be a concern and more offensive than the poster trying to correct the action. communication is a tricky thing when one can get his message across clearly let alone when it is littered with errors.

Personally, I'd rather live with a few spelling mistakes than have a thread about clipless pedals turn into a thread about proper grammar.

stupid grammar nazis...

The Time Atac pedals rely on two strong stainless steel spring traps to retain the cleats. The cleats that make up a pair with Time Atacs are different so that the amount of twist in the foot to break free of the pedal is different, depending on which shoes they are attached to. One way is easier for "beginners" because the twist required is not so much, the other way requires a fair degree of twist, and is designated for "experienced" riders.

The cleats are made of brass. In the normal course of events, they probably would last a year or more. The wear comes from contact with the ground when walking rather than entering/exiting pedals. The wear rate depends on the wear-down of the sole on the shoe. Because I wear my shoes all day just about every day, I probably get four months out of my cleats and nine months out of my shoes.

The Atacs have a good reputation for MTB riding in particular because the simplicity of their design means they are less susceptible to mud and crud clogging up the system. They are not cheap, though.

I'm happy with my three sets which I have not yet stripped down to regrease. They appear to have good seals on them.

FWIW

R

Can clipless pedals be ridden with normal shoes without too much of a problem? I have been looking into them, but many of my rides are just 1 or 2 mile trips that would make special shoes a pain.

It can be done, but it's like driving a car barefoot, if you get my drift. One possible alternative is to have an older bike with conventional pedals to serve the purpose of those short trips.

RiPHRaPH, I do believe you meant
Are we done playing school here, people? Not everyone on this board is a native English speaker, and even being from Ohio doesn't change that. Would you like to be treated with this kind of haughty reaction when you visit a Forum that's not using your native language? Think about it.

I have a five-digit post count at another Forum, and there are instances where I've had to ask people to clarify, but this comes across as petty. IMO.

+1 to mechBgon

There are models of SPD pedals that have the clip-in mechanism on one side and a plain platform on the other. A lot of touring cyclists like them for their flexibility in day-time touring, then short shop runs after setting up camp. Do a searchon the Shimano site to find the model numbers.

The Time Atacs offer a platform with the same double-sided ratrap arrangement. But neither the road nor MTB versions would be suitable for riding without appropriate shoes and cleats.

For your purposes, clips and straps may still be the ideal way to go. You get the ability to ride straight away in whatever shoes you have, but also you improve the efficiency of your ride.

And if you are happy with nothing but standard platform pedals, go for it.

FWIW

R

Rowan,

I didn't know that - thanks for the explanation .



-Moab

I think I am going to have to go with toe clips if I want something. Since I put slicks on my mountain bike I keep smashing my pedals into curbs and the street. Earlier today I almost threw myself from the bike when my pedal caught an uneven edge of street at about 15mph in a curve, not fun. I would probably kill clipless pedals doing this. Any recommendations for good clips?

Thanks,
Brian

Power Grips are better than toe clips. You can attach them to standard 'rat trap' type pedals. You put your foot in at an angle and twist to tighten. Easy to get out of. You can still use the other side of the pedal if you do not want to be strapped in.

Toe clips are about all the same, except that some look different than others and you can get them in "sizes", ie long foot, short foot. I suggest you just go to the bike shop and look and which clips seem good to you.

Now, once you get to the STRAPS, there are your basic straps, fancy roadie straps (you can use them on an MTB) and even plastic, ratchet buckle straps. Personally, I used to rely upon cleats and the ratchet buckle straps for racing, but have found clipless pedals to be as secure, easier to exit and less likely to bang into things (since they're smaller than a caged pedal).

If you're banging the pedals off of curbs or on the inside of curves, it's not the pedal but rather the Pilot.

You probably wouldn't kill a cliipless pair. However, it might be a good idea to get into the habit of going through a curve with the *inside* pedal in the 12 o'clock position. It does mean you have to stop pedalling momentarily, of course, but if you are going that quickly, that doesn't matter, and you are probably leaning quite a way into the corner. It's surprising, actually, because when you stand next to your bike and lean it over, it seems to go a l-o-n-g way before the pedal (in six o'clock position) touches the ground.

I find that cornering with the inside pedal up does three things: 1) It preserves the pedals and even more iimportantly, the cranks from damage. 2) It avoids the very problem you are talking about -- pitching myself off the bike. And 3) Having my weight on the outside pedal seems to add more control to the bike, especially if you have to sharpen the turn or you go over corrugations/potholes. For MTBers, it enables them to get the inside foot out and stabilise the bike by dragging it on the gravel if the rear end breaks away.

It's great riding behind someone coasting downhill on a sealed road at speed and watching the change in pedal position as they negotiate each corner.

As to pedals, clips and straps... the ordinary plastic ones I found to be quite satisfactory. They are resilient and take lots of scuffing. The cheapest pedals have suspect bearings, however, and because they are unsealed need regular overhauling. Note that you may have to make up and insert spaces between the pedal and clip mount to get a satisfactory "fit" for your foot.

I've heard of Powergrips, but have no experience with them. Others posting elsewhere seem to like them very much for their simplicity, and particularly because they are easy to adjust for big boots as required in northern American winters.

FWIW

R