ok, I did a search and there are a few threads about them but what is one more.

I use my MTB for commuting to work at times, but I take it with me inside. so that is not a issue.
though, I would like to start using it more for errands, and well I would be needing a lock.

My front wheel has a quick release, so I would like something that will protect the bike and the front wheel. so, a chain would probably be the best way of going about it over a U lock.

the following chains seem to be the same, but the locks seem to be slightly different.

https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Yor...1239540&sr=8-7

https://www.amazon.com/KRYPTONITE-FAH...1239540&sr=8-5

anyone know off hand what the differences might be?


would a 3ft chain be enough to get around the front tire, frame and a light post for example, or should the 5ft chain be the way to go?

oh yeah and where is the best place online to buy them, the amazon prices seem to be pretty good.

My philosophy:

The first lock that you get, regardless how cheesy, is about 90% effective because it forces the thief to bring some kind of tool with him.

To improve on 90% effectiveness you engage in a progressively more expensive game of high tech one-ups-manship that you will always ultimately lose. Any lock can be cut or defeated, it's just a matter of time and tools.

Go to: https://www.kryptonitelock.com/Produc...1001&scid=1002
Click on the "more info" buttons.

Comparing the "New York Chain" and the "New York Fahgettaboudit", the differences are:

New York Chain:
10mm four-sided chain links made of triple heat-treated boron manganese steel for maximum strength
Includes Evolution series 4 Disc Lock with 14mm MAX-Performance steel shackle
Double deadbolt locking mechanism for extensive holding power
New, higher security disc-style cylinder with more than 1 million key variations
Reinforced anti-drill/pull cylinder protection system

New York Fahgettaboudit:
11mm six-sided, chain links made of triple heated boron manganese steel for ultimate strength
Includes maximum security New York Disc Lock with 14mm MAX-Performance steel shackle:
High security disc-style cylinder
Hardened steel sleeve over crossbar for double security
Double deadbolt locking for extensive holding power

I haven't used either one, but have seen them at the store, and was thinking the chain was different. They are heavy.

so, other then 10mm to 11mm and 4 sided to 6 sided they seem to be the same thing.


the other main question I have is about the length of chain, is 3ft enough for locking up the front wheel, frame to a light post?

Has anyone read this year's Cycling Plus lock test? What were the results?

This thread, New York Tough Chain Locks, is over two years old, but you might find it interesting. Whatever bike lock you get, make sure it has a Sold Secure gold rating. The ART rating is also worth checking out. I don't think I've ever seen a lock with a five-star rating (the maximum) from ART, and most of the high-end bicycle locks only get three stars. The only four-star locks I've noticed seem to be marketed towards motorcycles because they are so big, heavy, and expensive.

I use a New York U-lock through the rear wheel and a mini evolution on the front wheel when I feel I need to really secure my bike. You could look into getting some locking skewers for your front wheel. I think a four foot chain would be enough for both wheels on most bikes, but I don't know about three feet. My Jamis Sputnik could probably manage with a three foot chain, but my touring bike might not be able to. Measure it with a vinyl tape measure to find out.

The lock on the Fahgettaboudit is probably stronger than the other one.

I agree. Some things like jet engines need to be complicated, but for those things that don't need to be complicated, I like to keep them as simple as possible. I use a piece of chain that I removed from a set of winter tire chains. (The outside chain, about 4 ft long.) It has a nice weight, secure but not really heavy. I usually use less than a foot of it at a bike rack, but it can go around a sizable vertical post. And a regular small padlock. Of course I'm not driving anything exotic or expensive, which is also a nice security feature, and saves a lot on lock up arrangements.

The yellow one is a newer model than the orange, but they're both good.
I don't know where the cheapest price is.

I have the five-footer, but in my town bike racks are few and far between. The 3-footer wouldn't have a lot of slack left after going around a telephone pole.

The downside is that the 5-footer is pretty heavy. I usually wear it like a bandolier for short in-town riding but it does not lay lightly on the shoulder.

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Also what you can do to decrease your chances of theft is use two different locks--such as a chain+padlock, and also get a good U-lock and use that too. Lock the bike with the U-lock first, and then use the chain however you have to, to lock the bike again, and then your bike is twice as hard to steal as everyone else's.
~

HEAAVVY. You will find yourself not using a lock because of how heavy those things are. Get a small u lock and a cable. Just about as effective, much lighter, and you will be more likely to actually use them.

You can make your own chain for much less than Kryptonite (although no insurance of course, I will see if I can find the post, but basically get a hardened steel chain from Home Depot). OnGuard also makes good locks.

As for the lock being heavy, I usually just wear it around my waste, where it is heavy, but out of the way.

The longer of the two NY Noose chains has enough length to do this.

U-lock plus cable plus strip the bike when you leave it (I have a Jim Blackburn rack with a tail bag that has velcro strips). My flat kit etc. stay in the tail bag, and when I remove the lights and cycle computer they get stowed in the tail bag and I carry it in with me.

When not in use I lock the U-lock to the rack and use a velcro cable tie to secure it (keep it from rattling). I keep the cable inside of the tail bag.

Uhhhh, , , , I dunno about that.
The chains at hardware stores are almost certainly not case-hardened. While the spool may say "hardened", it probably really means "tempered" or "annealed". Normal load-bearing chains are almost never case-hardened because such chains give little warning before they snap. The metal gets harder and stronger but also gets more brittle.

This thread ("brokenrobot", the second-last post) has someone who tried to find case-hardened chain, and never did:
https://www.bikeforums.net/archive/in...p/t-97510.html

The only fairly-common source of case-hardened chain I know of is to go to an auto-body shop that does frame straightening, and have them order some of the chain that they use. ...The bikeforums post mentions logging as well, so I'll have to ask around about that.

Grade-80 or grade-70 chain might be a fairly good choice as well. For example--grade-70 chain is usually rated for about 4X the load limits that regular cheap hardware store chain of the same size is.
~

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html

Remember how easily the hardware store guy can cut you a piece of that chain, then think about how easily it can be cut by a thief..

It'll be a good deterrent, but as usual, someone can defeat it quickly.

I just got an Kryptonite Evolution Mini specifically to lock the front wheel to the downtube; a NY Lock locks the frame & rear wheel to a bike post. Neither U-lock will go around most light poles, but then again, beefy bike racks (the arched and u-shaped kinds) are quite common around here.

Holy cow that's a huge effing lock! It makes me worried about my purchase. I hate to drag the post off-topic, but is my decision on this lock

https://www.cannondale.com/a_a/gear/0...el-8LU03.html#

a good one? My bike is 15 years old and I doupt it's worth much to the average person.

Good way ^^^^^to get your frame mangled when some tweek comes by and says "Look some guy only locked his wheel!" and procedes to yank, and yank on the bike until (if ever) he figures out that the wheel won't come through the frame.

If averse to Sheldon Brown's method, mechBgon has his own locking strategy using two locks, preferably one of different types, so a thief will have to carry two different types of cutters (or power equipment.) I personally also use different lock cylinders, so a would be lockpicker would have to be able to carry an Abloy decoder as well as a bump key or other pick, however almost no bike locks are picked open unless they are extremely cheap wafer tumblers, if that.

Perhaps just keep a chain lock on racks you lock up to in the day, ride with a U-lock, and that should do it in most places.