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joe_5700 06-22-08 10:13 PM

More efficient
 
I currently have a Trek 7200 Hybrid bike. I have had the bike for a year and it has been great. My only complaint is that I would like something more efficient or a bit faster. Are Trek FX 7.2 or 7.3's much faster than my 7200? Would I be better off putting some 28mm tires on my 7200?

maddyfish 06-22-08 10:46 PM

From where you are now, there are two ways to get faster: improve the engine (that's the best way), or move on to a proper drop bar road bike. 7.2/7.3 won't be any faster.

c_m_shooter 06-23-08 12:14 AM

Get a road bike and pedal faster.

The Human Car 06-23-08 10:46 AM

FWIW I just switched from a Trek 7500 fx (hybrid) to a Cannondale Synapse Sport (road), and I am faster. But a lot of that is coming from a better bike fit. I have noticed that dropping tire width is also helpful for increased speed. Tires are cheaper then a new bike so I would say play around a bit and make up your own mind on what works and does not work for you.

JanMM 06-23-08 12:03 PM

Just switch to smaller, lighter, higher pressure tires. Ride a bit faster on them until you figure out what bike you really need/want.

Garfield Cat 06-23-08 02:41 PM

To me "more efficient" has a lot to do with your pedal stroke. There's the downward push followed by the upward pull. Typically on a hybrid, the pedal system is a platform pedal. On a typical road bike today, its a clipless pedal system. Thus the hybrid can only work on the downstroke.

The other thing on "efficient" is the aerodynamics, especially when going fast. Its about the bike, the frame, the wheels. Hybrid bikes may not have the aerodynamic advanage over a road bike.

envane 06-23-08 03:08 PM


Originally Posted by Garfield Cat (Post 6931962)
To me "more efficient" has a lot to do with your pedal stroke. There's the downward push followed by the upward pull. Typically on a hybrid, the pedal system is a platform pedal. On a typical road bike today, its a clipless pedal system. Thus the hybrid can only work on the downstroke.
.

bull****.

you don't pull up on the downstroke in normal pedaling.

The Human Car 06-23-08 03:24 PM

While you can have clipless pedals on just about any kind of bike, clipless DOES let one foot pull up while the other is pushing down.

Ray Dockrey 06-23-08 03:30 PM


Originally Posted by The Human Car (Post 6932200)
While you can have clipless pedals on just about any kind of bike, clipless DOES let one foot pull up while the other is pushing down.

But you don't pull up. You unweight the foot but you don't pull up.

demoncyclist 06-23-08 03:33 PM

Damn! I've been teaching Spinning all wrong for the past 8 years??? And all those single leg drills were for naught too???

cachehiker 06-23-08 03:39 PM

Unweight, lift up, whatever ...

Clipless keeps your foot on the pedal without applying any force whatsoever whereas platform pedals require you to maintain a small amount of downward force during the upstroke to keep your foot from moving around. Therein lies the lower efficiency of platforms.

The Human Car 06-23-08 09:43 PM


Originally Posted by Ray Dockrey (Post 6932242)
But you don't pull up. You unweight the foot but you don't pull up.

If that works for you and your type of riding fine but ...


The primary benefits that clipless pedals offer the rider are:
1) The rider always has the ball of their foot on the pedal where the most power can be transferred. Often, newer riders will be pedaling with the pedal resting in the arch of their foot, which causes health problems for the rider with long term use and doesn't provide the rider the ability to fully extend their foot (with their calf muscle), thereby forfeiting a healthy percentage of power they could be generating.
2) With clipless pedals, a rider can power their bike by both their upstroke and downstroke. This gives the rider a significant advantage on uphill rides.
3) Being connected to the bike gives the rider increased maneuverability. Bunny hops are easier, leaning the bike is easier, and balancing your weight on the pedals is easier.
http://www.spadout.com/w/pedals/

In addition I have found on long tours utilizing the upstroke helps relive pressure on the bottom of the foot reducing fatigue so I can pedal longer.

jaxgtr 06-23-08 09:50 PM

If you don't want a new bike, get a rigid fork and smaller tires. I replace the suspension fork on my 7300 with a rigid and start riding 700*28 and I avg 2 or 3 mph more, but I have also gotten in better shape as well. My hybrid weighed 35 lbs at one time, I have it down to 28 now and I also have clipless pedals on it. Made a big difference in my pedaling an cadence.

joe_5700 06-24-08 09:05 AM


Originally Posted by jaxgtr (Post 6934374)
If you don't want a new bike, get a rigid fork and smaller tires. I replace the suspension fork on my 7300 with a rigid and start riding 700*28 and I avg 2 or 3 mph more, but I have also gotten in better shape as well. My hybrid weighed 35 lbs at one time, I have it down to 28 now and I also have clipless pedals on it. Made a big difference in my pedaling an cadence.

Thanks for all of the replies.
I am going to go with 700*28's for sure. Does anyone have a link for a set of clipless pedals?

Garfield Cat 06-24-08 09:52 AM

Before you go out and buy a clipless pedal system, make sure you know something about riding this way. There is a transition time to become accustomed to it.

Since you are already familiar with your bike, it will be easier for you. But the thing about being "clipped in" your pedals is that when stopping, a rider forgets and falls over.

joe_5700 06-24-08 10:38 AM


Originally Posted by Garfield Cat (Post 6936688)
Before you go out and buy a clipless pedal system, make sure you know something about riding this way. There is a transition time to become accustomed to it.

Since you are already familiar with your bike, it will be easier for you. But the thing about being "clipped in" your pedals is that when stopping, a rider forgets and falls over.


I did some research on clipless pedals and they sound a little more complicated than what I am looking for. I would have to also have to have special shoes? I'd say that's a bad idea even on the roads in Omaha Nebraska. There is a lot of sand, gravel, construction and pot holes. Are there more efficient or better platform pedals out there? My pedals don't exactly spin like they have bearings in them.

cachehiker 06-25-08 05:15 PM


Originally Posted by joe_5700 (Post 6936968)
I would have to also have to have special shoes?

Yes and no. You can get pedals with a clip on one side and a platform on the other. They're OK for commuting but I wouldn't consider them for much else. The platform on some clipless pedals like the Crank Brothers Mallets are large enough to ride in street shoes without too much discomfort. My typical commuting shoes, AXO Dually's and Lake MX255's, actually look like street shoes with recessed cleats and I don't bother changing when I get to work.


Originally Posted by joe_5700 (Post 6936968)
There is a lot of sand, gravel, construction and pot holes.

I'd rather pop out of my clipless out than try and remove my shoe from over the toe style clips which also help to keep your foot in a better position. If you go for basic adjustable SPD types you can also back the tension all the way off while getting used to them.


Originally Posted by joe_5700 (Post 6936968)
Are there more efficient or better platform pedals out there?

Yes. You can probably get better ones for around $20. Yours are probably plastic and a bit more comfortable with flexible soled shoes but check out some MKS Sylvans with some lugs/cleats and toe clips to hold your shoe in place better.

Zan 06-25-08 08:29 PM

increasing the PSI in your tires (up to the max) will improve your speed/efficiency on roads.

joe_5700 07-02-08 03:37 PM

I think that I am going to go with theses pedals:

http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...tform%20Pedals

I think the power grips pedal set will be a good compromise between platform pedals and a clipless system.

cachehiker 07-02-08 04:32 PM

Not a bad choice at all. I've heard nothing but good things about the Power Grips and was considering them for my foul weather commuter/tourer myself.

joe_5700 08-15-08 11:13 PM


Originally Posted by JanMM (Post 6930828)
Just switch to smaller, lighter, higher pressure tires. Ride a bit faster on them until you figure out what bike you really need/want.

I did just that and went with 2 700X28 Michelin Dynamics I took my bike for a short ride and the bike seemed to roll faster and required a bit less effort to maintain speeds. With the different tires I was able to bump up my tire pressures from 80 to 100, so that helps as well as the slightly narrower tire. I also went with the power grip pedals. It's still too early to really tell, bu my bike does feel more efficient.

Bill Kapaun 08-16-08 01:56 PM

What type of terrain do you ride?
IF mostly flat, get a different cassette to replace the 11-32 you currently have.
Something like a 12-23/25 will give you closer spaced gears.
That allows you to maintain your cadence in a narrower, more efficient range.
11-12-14-16-18-21-26-32 vs
12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23 or
12-13-15-17-19-21-23-25
IF you don't spin out on a 48-12, you might even go 13-23/26

Retro Grouch 08-16-08 03:52 PM


Originally Posted by joe_5700 (Post 6927804)
I currently have a Trek 7200 Hybrid bike. I have had the bike for a year and it has been great. My only complaint is that I would like something more efficient or a bit faster. Are Trek FX 7.2 or 7.3's much faster than my 7200? Would I be better off putting some 28mm tires on my 7200?

There are lots of places on a bicycle where you can pick up tiny amounts of efficiency to make you go a tiny bit faster.

There is one biggie. Once you get above around 15 MPH or so, most of your energy goes to push your torso through the air. Compared to improving your body position on your bicycle, everything else is small potatoes.

operator 08-16-08 04:49 PM

The cheapest and biggest benfit would be narrower tires and slicks. Then work on positioning. The effect of any other change to your bike is incredibly small compared to the tires.

joe_5700 08-16-08 09:53 PM


Originally Posted by Retro Grouch (Post 7285505)
There are lots of places on a bicycle where you can pick up tiny amounts of efficiency to make you go a tiny bit faster.

There is one biggie. Once you get above around 15 MPH or so, most of your energy goes to push your torso through the air. Compared to improving your body position on your bicycle, everything else is small potatoes.


I agree and since I have a hybrid bike, my riding position with the bars makes me a sail. along with the narrower tires, I purchased aerobars that I have yet to install.


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