More efficient
#1
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CAT4
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Omaha, Nebraska
Bikes: 2009 Cervélo S1, 2009 Felt F75, 2010 Cannondale Synapse Carbon 5, 2011 Cannondale CAADx, 2011 Specialized Transition Elite
More efficient
I currently have a Trek 7200 Hybrid bike. I have had the bike for a year and it has been great. My only complaint is that I would like something more efficient or a bit faster. Are Trek FX 7.2 or 7.3's much faster than my 7200? Would I be better off putting some 28mm tires on my 7200?
#4
FWIW I just switched from a Trek 7500 fx (hybrid) to a Cannondale Synapse Sport (road), and I am faster. But a lot of that is coming from a better bike fit. I have noticed that dropping tire width is also helpful for increased speed. Tires are cheaper then a new bike so I would say play around a bit and make up your own mind on what works and does not work for you.
#6
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From: Huntington Beach, CA
Bikes: Cervelo Prodigy
To me "more efficient" has a lot to do with your pedal stroke. There's the downward push followed by the upward pull. Typically on a hybrid, the pedal system is a platform pedal. On a typical road bike today, its a clipless pedal system. Thus the hybrid can only work on the downstroke.
The other thing on "efficient" is the aerodynamics, especially when going fast. Its about the bike, the frame, the wheels. Hybrid bikes may not have the aerodynamic advanage over a road bike.
The other thing on "efficient" is the aerodynamics, especially when going fast. Its about the bike, the frame, the wheels. Hybrid bikes may not have the aerodynamic advanage over a road bike.
#7
To me "more efficient" has a lot to do with your pedal stroke. There's the downward push followed by the upward pull. Typically on a hybrid, the pedal system is a platform pedal. On a typical road bike today, its a clipless pedal system. Thus the hybrid can only work on the downstroke.
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you don't pull up on the downstroke in normal pedaling.
#8
While you can have clipless pedals on just about any kind of bike, clipless DOES let one foot pull up while the other is pushing down.
#9
#11
Soma Lover
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From: Logan, UT
Bikes: one bike for every day of the week
Unweight, lift up, whatever ...
Clipless keeps your foot on the pedal without applying any force whatsoever whereas platform pedals require you to maintain a small amount of downward force during the upstroke to keep your foot from moving around. Therein lies the lower efficiency of platforms.
Clipless keeps your foot on the pedal without applying any force whatsoever whereas platform pedals require you to maintain a small amount of downward force during the upstroke to keep your foot from moving around. Therein lies the lower efficiency of platforms.
#12
The primary benefits that clipless pedals offer the rider are:
1) The rider always has the ball of their foot on the pedal where the most power can be transferred. Often, newer riders will be pedaling with the pedal resting in the arch of their foot, which causes health problems for the rider with long term use and doesn't provide the rider the ability to fully extend their foot (with their calf muscle), thereby forfeiting a healthy percentage of power they could be generating.
2) With clipless pedals, a rider can power their bike by both their upstroke and downstroke. This gives the rider a significant advantage on uphill rides.
3) Being connected to the bike gives the rider increased maneuverability. Bunny hops are easier, leaning the bike is easier, and balancing your weight on the pedals is easier.
1) The rider always has the ball of their foot on the pedal where the most power can be transferred. Often, newer riders will be pedaling with the pedal resting in the arch of their foot, which causes health problems for the rider with long term use and doesn't provide the rider the ability to fully extend their foot (with their calf muscle), thereby forfeiting a healthy percentage of power they could be generating.
2) With clipless pedals, a rider can power their bike by both their upstroke and downstroke. This gives the rider a significant advantage on uphill rides.
3) Being connected to the bike gives the rider increased maneuverability. Bunny hops are easier, leaning the bike is easier, and balancing your weight on the pedals is easier.
In addition I have found on long tours utilizing the upstroke helps relive pressure on the bottom of the foot reducing fatigue so I can pedal longer.
#13
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From: Jacksonville, FL
Bikes: Trek Checkmate, Lynskey Elysium, Trek FX 5 Sport
If you don't want a new bike, get a rigid fork and smaller tires. I replace the suspension fork on my 7300 with a rigid and start riding 700*28 and I avg 2 or 3 mph more, but I have also gotten in better shape as well. My hybrid weighed 35 lbs at one time, I have it down to 28 now and I also have clipless pedals on it. Made a big difference in my pedaling an cadence.
#14
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CAT4
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From: Omaha, Nebraska
Bikes: 2009 Cervélo S1, 2009 Felt F75, 2010 Cannondale Synapse Carbon 5, 2011 Cannondale CAADx, 2011 Specialized Transition Elite
If you don't want a new bike, get a rigid fork and smaller tires. I replace the suspension fork on my 7300 with a rigid and start riding 700*28 and I avg 2 or 3 mph more, but I have also gotten in better shape as well. My hybrid weighed 35 lbs at one time, I have it down to 28 now and I also have clipless pedals on it. Made a big difference in my pedaling an cadence.
I am going to go with 700*28's for sure. Does anyone have a link for a set of clipless pedals?
#15
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Huntington Beach, CA
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Before you go out and buy a clipless pedal system, make sure you know something about riding this way. There is a transition time to become accustomed to it.
Since you are already familiar with your bike, it will be easier for you. But the thing about being "clipped in" your pedals is that when stopping, a rider forgets and falls over.
Since you are already familiar with your bike, it will be easier for you. But the thing about being "clipped in" your pedals is that when stopping, a rider forgets and falls over.
#16
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CAT4
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Omaha, Nebraska
Bikes: 2009 Cervélo S1, 2009 Felt F75, 2010 Cannondale Synapse Carbon 5, 2011 Cannondale CAADx, 2011 Specialized Transition Elite
Before you go out and buy a clipless pedal system, make sure you know something about riding this way. There is a transition time to become accustomed to it.
Since you are already familiar with your bike, it will be easier for you. But the thing about being "clipped in" your pedals is that when stopping, a rider forgets and falls over.
Since you are already familiar with your bike, it will be easier for you. But the thing about being "clipped in" your pedals is that when stopping, a rider forgets and falls over.
I did some research on clipless pedals and they sound a little more complicated than what I am looking for. I would have to also have to have special shoes? I'd say that's a bad idea even on the roads in Omaha Nebraska. There is a lot of sand, gravel, construction and pot holes. Are there more efficient or better platform pedals out there? My pedals don't exactly spin like they have bearings in them.
#17
Soma Lover
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From: Logan, UT
Bikes: one bike for every day of the week
Yes and no. You can get pedals with a clip on one side and a platform on the other. They're OK for commuting but I wouldn't consider them for much else. The platform on some clipless pedals like the Crank Brothers Mallets are large enough to ride in street shoes without too much discomfort. My typical commuting shoes, AXO Dually's and Lake MX255's, actually look like street shoes with recessed cleats and I don't bother changing when I get to work.
I'd rather pop out of my clipless out than try and remove my shoe from over the toe style clips which also help to keep your foot in a better position. If you go for basic adjustable SPD types you can also back the tension all the way off while getting used to them.
Yes. You can probably get better ones for around $20. Yours are probably plastic and a bit more comfortable with flexible soled shoes but check out some MKS Sylvans with some lugs/cleats and toe clips to hold your shoe in place better.
I'd rather pop out of my clipless out than try and remove my shoe from over the toe style clips which also help to keep your foot in a better position. If you go for basic adjustable SPD types you can also back the tension all the way off while getting used to them.
Yes. You can probably get better ones for around $20. Yours are probably plastic and a bit more comfortable with flexible soled shoes but check out some MKS Sylvans with some lugs/cleats and toe clips to hold your shoe in place better.
#18
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From: Waterloo, ONT
Bikes: Road: Trek 1.5 (2007). Mountain: Santa Cruz Chameleon (2008). Beater: Peugeot Recorde du Monde (1850)
increasing the PSI in your tires (up to the max) will improve your speed/efficiency on roads.
#19
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CAT4
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From: Omaha, Nebraska
Bikes: 2009 Cervélo S1, 2009 Felt F75, 2010 Cannondale Synapse Carbon 5, 2011 Cannondale CAADx, 2011 Specialized Transition Elite
I think that I am going to go with theses pedals:
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...tform%20Pedals
I think the power grips pedal set will be a good compromise between platform pedals and a clipless system.
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...tform%20Pedals
I think the power grips pedal set will be a good compromise between platform pedals and a clipless system.
#21
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CAT4
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From: Omaha, Nebraska
Bikes: 2009 Cervélo S1, 2009 Felt F75, 2010 Cannondale Synapse Carbon 5, 2011 Cannondale CAADx, 2011 Specialized Transition Elite
I did just that and went with 2 700X28 Michelin Dynamics I took my bike for a short ride and the bike seemed to roll faster and required a bit less effort to maintain speeds. With the different tires I was able to bump up my tire pressures from 80 to 100, so that helps as well as the slightly narrower tire. I also went with the power grip pedals. It's still too early to really tell, bu my bike does feel more efficient.
#22
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Bikes: 87 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds. 2019 Giant Explore E+3
What type of terrain do you ride?
IF mostly flat, get a different cassette to replace the 11-32 you currently have.
Something like a 12-23/25 will give you closer spaced gears.
That allows you to maintain your cadence in a narrower, more efficient range.
11-12-14-16-18-21-26-32 vs
12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23 or
12-13-15-17-19-21-23-25
IF you don't spin out on a 48-12, you might even go 13-23/26
IF mostly flat, get a different cassette to replace the 11-32 you currently have.
Something like a 12-23/25 will give you closer spaced gears.
That allows you to maintain your cadence in a narrower, more efficient range.
11-12-14-16-18-21-26-32 vs
12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23 or
12-13-15-17-19-21-23-25
IF you don't spin out on a 48-12, you might even go 13-23/26
#23
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
I currently have a Trek 7200 Hybrid bike. I have had the bike for a year and it has been great. My only complaint is that I would like something more efficient or a bit faster. Are Trek FX 7.2 or 7.3's much faster than my 7200? Would I be better off putting some 28mm tires on my 7200?
There is one biggie. Once you get above around 15 MPH or so, most of your energy goes to push your torso through the air. Compared to improving your body position on your bicycle, everything else is small potatoes.
#24
cab horn

Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
The cheapest and biggest benfit would be narrower tires and slicks. Then work on positioning. The effect of any other change to your bike is incredibly small compared to the tires.
#25
Thread Starter
CAT4
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Omaha, Nebraska
Bikes: 2009 Cervélo S1, 2009 Felt F75, 2010 Cannondale Synapse Carbon 5, 2011 Cannondale CAADx, 2011 Specialized Transition Elite
There are lots of places on a bicycle where you can pick up tiny amounts of efficiency to make you go a tiny bit faster.
There is one biggie. Once you get above around 15 MPH or so, most of your energy goes to push your torso through the air. Compared to improving your body position on your bicycle, everything else is small potatoes.
There is one biggie. Once you get above around 15 MPH or so, most of your energy goes to push your torso through the air. Compared to improving your body position on your bicycle, everything else is small potatoes.
I agree and since I have a hybrid bike, my riding position with the bars makes me a sail. along with the narrower tires, I purchased aerobars that I have yet to install.




