tilzinger

As the subject says, I have a 2008 Trek 7.2 that I bought mostly for commuting and recreation. I'm thinking about replacing the handlebars and thus the brakes/shifters to make it feel more like a road bike. I think I'll like the body position more than the cross bar it has now. I'd like to do this within $200 if possible, $300 max. I've been browsing the brake/shifter combos (brifters) and they're ridiculously expensive. I'll continue to use the bike as a commuter and for recreation, so I don't need anything serious... just want the bike to feel different.

Can anyone offer suggestions as to what kind of gear I should be looking at, and what would work on this bike? Most brifters seem to be in the 10 speed range, I think my bike is a ridiculous 16 speed. I only use about 4-5 of them.

bcarter6

10-speed only refers to the number of rear cogs. I believe the 7.2fx is a 8 speed.

I think you can get a set of Tiagra shifters for not too much, and a new cassette can be had pretty cheap, and cheap drop bars... You'll need to trade out the brakes to a cantilever style, but those aren't terribly expensive.

Or you can get drop bars and just change the brakes. Leave the shifters you have on the flat part of the new bars. Or you can get some friction shifters.

runway1

My feeling is, sell what you have and buy a real road bike, if that's what you want.

I have a 7.3 FX and love it although, I'm feeling like more "road" bike myself. Replacing the components is going to cost several hundred...... Get a few hundred for yours, add $200-$300 more and get a quality, used road bike. I'm thinking that path now.

bagel007

I wonder how does Giant Cypress fare against Trek 7.2x ...

runway1

Seems to me the Cypress is more along the lines of the Trek 7000 series. It sits more upright like the 7000, 7100, 7200, etc. The Trek FX series moves a bit more toward the "road" bike stance, but still a bit upright, just not as much as the Cypress and 7000's.

dynaryder

A set of trekking bars will allow you to get aero like drops,and give you multiple hand positions,while using your stock stem and controls. They only cost like $20-35 plus bar tape or grips.

Barry in GA

tilzinger,

As you have found, converting from flat bars to road bars is neither simple nor inexpensive. One alternative would be to try a set of these bar ends on your existing flat handlebars.
The flatbar + drop ends would be wider than a traditional dropbar, but it would let you find out if you really like the roadbar setup without spending a bunch of money.

letsgoleo

tilzinger -

I too have a 2008 Trek 7.2 FX and bought it this past summer (end of July) for commuting. Before I comment on your post, let me give you some background.

I hadn't owned or ridden a bike in over 15 years (summer of 93). Actually, I was initially going to buy a scooter or low cc motorcycle because gas prices were climbing so high. Anyway, I opted to buy a bicycle to save some cash; enjoy the scenery and keep in (get in) better shape. I am glad I did. My commute is a relative hilly 25 miles RT (12.5 to and 12.8 from) ride (note: live in the 2nd hilliest city in the country ... Seattle). Anyway, within the first couple weeks, I found that I really enjoyed biking and since then have done a number of un-organized (i.e. just on my own) 50+ miles rides on the weekends. I did do an organized ride which was (the Chilly Hilly) recently (only 32 miles ... but hilly) and have plans to do a century in June and the Seattle-To-Portland (double century) in July.

Anyway, there are always lot of cyclists on my general cycling routes, the far majority of them are on road bikes ... which pass me all the time. Now, to put this into perspective, even before I bought my bike, most people would have considered me to be in relatively good shape. With that said, I accept getting passed by someone who is in better cycling condition; has better cycling technique; and is on a better bike. However, what has been my motivation to find ways to make myself and my bike faster (thus finding your post) is getting passed by people on road bikes that do not appear to be in better condition or to have better cycling form ... they just have a better road specific bike.

Now since you mentioned "position" and just wanting your bike to "feel different", my post may not be exactly what your looking for ... since my motivation is more in the line of wanting greater speed and efficiency (while still keeping the same bike).

Anyway, just this past Friday, I made the following simple modifications to my bike...

Bike Modifications (made):
TIRES: I replaced the very good but very sluggish Bonetrager 700c X 35 Select Invert Hardcase tires (typical hybrid tread pattern) that came with the bike to Schwalbe Stelvios 700c X 28s (slicks). I can easily go 5 mph faster on the flats and at least 1 mph faster on the hills.
PEDALS: I installed clipless SPD Shimanos M520 pedals. Now, I am still learning how to efficiently pedal clipless ... but I can feel different muscles working.
SHOES: I bought cycling shoes to match my SPD cleats. I am now more efficiently learning to pedal in a continuous 360 motion.

Bike Modifications (in consideration):
HANDLEBARS: I am going to replace my Bonetrager Crowbar handlebars (w/ a 5 degree rise) to a completely flat and lighter handle bar. At the same time I will also ditch my rubber handgrips for foam and tape (to reduce weight). For longer and hillier rides, I plan to temporarily install bar-ends for added hand positions/comfort.
SADDLE: I am going to replace my stock Bonetrager "Approved Saddle" that came with the bike to something lighter and more aero-dynamic...
SEATPOST: I am going to replace the heavy suspension seat post to a solid/stiff and lighter seat post. At that time I will likely cut off any excess stem/post to reduce excess weight as well.

I figure, at this time I really can't justify buying another new bike (road bike) just because my ego is getting challenged. As a form of self-constraint, I told myself I would wait to at least do a few organized centuries first and have the bike for at least a year before I get a road bike. Plus it is kind of a mental motivator knowing that I am working harder ... thus getting better fit.

Also, I figure I shouldn't do any upgrades other than what I have listed above because the costs would not make sense ... point of diminishing returns (better off buying a road bike now).

Therefore, since your (our) bike was about $450 new, I wouldn't fork over more than $300 to make it feel different (body position wise). If you do fork over the $300, I think you would best serve yourself to try to at least make it feel different (road efficiency wise) too.

I mean, as an extreme, you can make a Mongoose dirt bike feel/look different ... but it is worth it? I have seen decent road bikes on Craiglists for less than $600 ... decent in the sense that they will ride much better than a 7.2FX modified to "look" like a road bike.

In any case, the problem you have is a good one … you want to improve your cycling.

I hope this helps.

tilzinger

Thanks for the replies everyone. It is not in my budget to buy a new road bike right now, and since I'm mainly just looking for more hand positions, those bar-ends might do the trick. I was also thinking about something like this: https://tinyurl.com/dfcfc3 It won't give me the drop, but I've ridden a bike with those handlebars and liked how it felt. If I get something like that time trial bar I could keep the shifters/brakes that came with the bike, and it would be a cheap upgrade. I've seen the brakes that fit a bar like that, and they're pretty cheap (https://tinyurl.com/de3h7g), but I don't know what to do about the shifters. Any ideas?