I recently bought a pair of Gatorskins to replace the cheap tires I had bought. Partly sparked by an absurd number of flats, as well as damaging the rear rim beyond repair.

I put on the front one and realize it is meant to be installed on a hooked rim only, which mine is not. Is this going to cause ill consequence?

Explain hooked rim? What kind of rim are you using?

I had 'ill consequence', as you say, from trying this. In fact, though, I was quite lucky. I put new tires on an old school rim (80's Araya). The tire said 120 psi, so that's where I went. It rode fine, but just after I got off the bike...tick tick, BOOM! The tire blew off the rim. I confided in the C+V forum, and they told me to hold it down to 75 or 80 psi max., which has been fine ever since, in my case. This is not an iron-clad guarantee of success, obviously. I suggest you ask the C+V guys about your specific rim. They know all. Good luck.

Pretty much every wheel that uses clincher tires have hooked rims. This type of rim is used probably in 95% of all bicycles.

Are your wheels tubulars ?, I.E. Sew-Ups/glued to the rim ?. That would explain why a clincher tire will not work.

Steeve B.

Scroll down to hook-edge rim. I'm using the old style of rim on the front, as it was original on my bike, which is circa 1980.

OK, Now I remember. Made for the old low pressure tires. Yes you are asking for problems if you use the reccommended pressure. You can hear the bead pop into the seated position on a new rim.

Alright. With my old tires, I put in a little less than the maximum and never had a problem.. Should I do different with these tires?

The tires recommend 82 psi with a max of 102, I think. I put in about 82. Should I have put in less?

How heavy are you? At 82psi, the heavier you are the more you invite pinch flats and/or blowouts from sudden unseating. As you hit a minor obstacle - such as a small pothole or raised concrete joint (sidewalk or road) the tire compresses against the rim causing the twin puncture "snake-eye" flat. Worse, it could potentially unseat the tire from the rim.

Probably the best upgrade I did to my 80's bike was putting new wheels on it. That had its own problems too as modern wheels don't come with freewheel hubs, also requiring an upgrade fron a 6sp freewheel to a 9sp cassette. Luckily, it was a steel frame that could be expanded to accept it. (Actually, it had already expanded as I was having to compress the rear stays to get them to drop on the wheel prior to the upgrade.

190 pounds, give or take.
I got a newer wheel on the back. New enough to be hooked, but old enough to have a freewheel. So that worked out well. If I wouldn't have been able to get that wheel, I would have had to get 700c wheels, then a cassette... Worked out well for me. In a number of months, depending if I have problems or not, I may get a new front rim.

I had steel rims on my bike and experienced the same problem. I ride an old Puch that has 27x1 1/4 rims. I switched to new alloys still (27x1 1/4) that have that ridge in them to seat the tire. It wasn't that expensive. The weight and style aren't important to me so the lower priced alloys work fine for me. My LBS found one that would even accept my old Sun Tour freewheel. I don't remember the exact cost because I bought some other stuff at the same time. It was less than $100 though.

BTW I use Gatorskin hardshells and haven't had a single flat since installing them.

Worse if the tire is easy to put on, then its as easy to blowoff.

For security, get a different rim or wheel set , that as a pronounced inner hook.

Continental uses Gator skin on the sidewall feature on many models
so saying gator skin is not a clue to which one you bought..
I guess it's a skinny race bike style high pressure tire..


Mine is a 559 -47 ,, or 26x1.75" size ,It's a travel contact, their loaded expedition touring tire.

Yes it does. I got the Continental GatorSkin. They dropped the "Ultra" from the name.

Mine was a little more recent and about the only freewheels were the very high end Phil Woods, plus the freewheel needed to be replaced as chain was shipping. Could have purchased cheaper but wanted the experience and built out Mavic Open Pro on Chorus hubs. Downtube shifter handle the difference spacing, and the rear deraileur probably would have worked but took the opportunity to take back Campy with a Centaur rear deraileur. Original was destroyed in spokes and had replaced it with a Shimano 600. It is unbelievable the way those wheels roll.

My experience is it depends on the tires. No problems with Gatorskins or Bontragers, big problems with Schwables and Panaracers. I run up to 120psi. I'd say, pressure them up and let them sit. If your going to get a blow off you can find out in the garage, you'll just destroy a tube. They tend to let go when sitting still, when rotating they are more likely to stay seated [odd word combination noted].

With the steel 27 x 1 1/4" non-hooked rims from circa 1980s Schwinn and French wheels from a Peugeot UO8, I've been able to run Bontrager Hardcase rims. I haven't tried a Gatorskin.

I don't think I've inflated them to more than about 85 psi though. I fill them to 100-110 but I lose alot when I pull the filler nozzle off. I'm going to get Presta valves in the future to alleviate that.

The bike and me weigh about 340-350 lbs total when I have stuff in the panniers. (I'm 295 clothed.)

I would blow cheap Kenda tires off the rims like nothing if I filled it to that pressure. I would also flat the Kendas at least once/week so they were awful for me.

The Bontragers were hard to get on the first time, but they loosen up quite a bit with use. I typically flat one of them once every few months.

If they are tight and hard to put on you may be OK,

but I would not fit something that I wanted to pump up to 100+psi.

tire choice options will improve if you replace your rims/wheels.

Maybe a time for the 27" to 700c conversion too, if applicable..