SurlyLaika

so I know the CC has been touted as the jack-of-all-trades, most versatile thing on two wheels, do everything well but nothing awesome, but what are the limitations of the Cross Check? What would you do with it (given the ability to modify and trick it out in whatever configuration you like)? What does it do well and what does it badly?

As a commuter?
As a fixed gear?
As an touring bike?
As a cross bike?

How do you use it? and how you have it set up?

SurlyLaika

My CC is set up as a commuter/light touring bike. I can't comment on how it compares to other brands (Salsa, Soma, Kona, etc) because it's my first serious bike. What I can is so far I'm satisfied.

It's pretty much set up stock except
Surly Nice Racks front and rear
Specialized Armadillo All Condition 700x25 skinnies
SKS P35's
Brooks B17 narrow and bar tape
26t granny gear

The Surly racks are going to have to go until I actually go on a tour. I find that at a combined 7lbs, they just take the nimbleness, agility and fun out of the ride. I'm using a Wingnut Adventure packfor the time being and it really is an amazing backpack; pretty much all I use to haul around junk on a daily basis. Can't recommend it highly enough. Well worth the $145.

Secondly, although the Armadillo's are plenty fast and hard, and they have crushed glass as advertised by my LBS, they just aren't very smooth over potholes, bumps, and generally rough riding conditions which is what I ride through a lot of the time. That's why I'm considering going back to the stock Ritchey Speedmax 700x32 knobbies. They're fatter (and I imagine more comfortable) and the idea of an all-purpose on road/off road tire really appeals to me. I might even take the Ritchey's on tour.

The SKS fenders do what they're meant to do. Can't complain.

The German Bike Mirror is indispensable. It's really given me the confidence to ride through congested areas with little to no shoulder.

The Brooks is very nice, of course but I really recommend a professional fitting. Small adjustments make a huge difference in the comfortability dept.

SurlyLaika

As far as the gearing, I'm not sure what to think about it. According to Sheldon Brown, "The lowest gear on most mountain bikes is around 22-26 inches. The highest gear on road racing bikes is usually around 108-110 inches."

Even with my 26t chain ring, the gear range is only 27.4 to 105.5, kinda neither here nor there, right? Not up to par with mountain bikes on the low end or road bikes on the high end. What's up with that?

fietsbob

CC is a bit lightly spec'd tube set for touring carrying weight,
and short chainstay for heel clearance, withpanniers on the back..

It's a decent Tig welded frame, contract made for QBP, and widely distributed

Most shops in USA and Canada will have a QBP account.

low 24t /34t is reasonable , a 4:1 high is plenty tall on the other end.

Mountain bike crank 22,32 44 , 12 -34 cassette ,
more than 9 'speeds' is folly.

SurlyLaika

This is what the Sheldon Brown's gear calculator spit out for a 12-27t 9 speed cassette. I like that the 7 lowest gears gears are identical to what I have right now on the 12-25t, because I use those most in combination with the 36t middle chain ring in the front. The only difference is the last 2 gears: 24t and 27t as opposed 23t and 25t. The range is 105.5 on the high end and 25.4 on the low end. No change on the high end and the low end goes from 27.4 to 25.4, only a difference of 2 gear inches and not quite the 10% increase in range that make the upgrade worthwhile as somebody else on BF has told me.

For 700 X 25 / 25-622 tire with 175 mm cranks

With Custom Sprocket(s) Cassette

48 36 26
12 105.5 79.1 57.2

13 97.4 73.1 52.8

14 90.4 67.8 49.0

15 84.4 63.3 45.7

17 74.5 55.9 40.3

19 66.6 50.0 36.1

21 60.3 45.2 32.7

24 52.8 39.6 28.6

27 46.9 35.2 25.4
This small version of the chart can be printed, cut out, and taped to your bicycle for reference.

105.5 79.1 57.2
97.4 73.1 52.8
90.4 67.8 49.0
84.4 63.3 45.7
74.5 55.9 40.3
66.6 50.0 36.1
60.3 45.2 32.7
52.8 39.6 28.6
46.9 35.2 25.4

SurlyLaika

This is the gears as it is currently set up. is there anything between 12-27t and 12-32t or is that it? Should I just leave it as is? or would the 2 gear inches gained with a 12-27t worth while?

For 700 X 25 / 25-622 tire with 175 mm cranks

With Custom Sprocket(s) Cassette

48 36 26
12 105.5 79.1 57.2

13 97.4 73.1 52.8

14 90.4 67.8 49.0

15 84.4 63.3 45.7

17 74.5 55.9 40.3

19 66.6 50.0 36.1

21 60.3 45.2 32.7

23 55.1 41.3 29.8

25 50.6 38.0 27.4
This small version of the chart can be printed, cut out, and taped to your bicycle for reference.

105.5 79.1 57.2
97.4 73.1 52.8
90.4 67.8 49.0
84.4 63.3 45.7
74.5 55.9 40.3
66.6 50.0 36.1
60.3 45.2 32.7
55.1 41.3 29.8
50.6 38.0 27.4

Retro Grouch 

OK, here's the thing about anything on Sheldon Brown's website. I liked Sheldon and even exchanged some posts with him but he's dead and he can't revise his website anymore. Some of his information is out dated.

I'm thinking that the typical mountain bike low gear is more like 18 gear inches and even a compact double road bike will have a high gear of around 122 gear inches.

Gearing is a personal question that only you can answer. Try something and, if you find you'd like an additional gear or two on either end, try something else. Other than fit it's the most beneficial change that you can make to your bike.