Help! How do I use downtube shifters?
#26
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Aaron
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ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
#27
Resident smartass.
Hey guys, recently picked up a 15 speed Nishiki Cresta with downtube shifters as my first road bike. Unfortunately I'm finding it pretty difficult to shift between the gears. Mainly, I don't know what the right hand position would be to stay stable while shifting. I'm also unsure as to how far to move each lever before its been moved too much. Any other general advice regarding downtube shifters is appreciated as well.
Here's the technique I use with my bike (Will TRY to explain this as best as I can). It's easiest to use the drop portion of the bars, rather than the upright position:
On your bike, get up to speed for that gear. Ideally you should be pretty much spinning/freewheeling. With your right (or left, depending on the shifter you're going to use), us the middle two fingers to move the shifter (USUALLY) slowly forward. As you move the shifter, listen for the chain to start "chattering" as it is moved from one gear to the next. A quick glance down at the rear sprockets at the same time, will give you a quick idea of where the chain is (Also good for finding out what gear you're in too). But that's optional. You'll hear the chain "click" (best description) as it engages with the next sprocket. For your fastest gears, You'll be using your thumb. The process of shifting into slower gears is reversed, in regards to your fingers and thumb.
It's just a matter of practicing before you get the hang of it.
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Hey guys, recently picked up a 15 speed Nishiki Cresta with downtube shifters as my first road bike. Unfortunately I'm finding it pretty difficult to shift between the gears. Mainly, I don't know what the right hand position would be to stay stable while shifting. I'm also unsure as to how far to move each lever before its been moved too much. Any other general advice regarding downtube shifters is appreciated as well.
Thanks!
Thanks!
IMHO, DT shifters will make you a better rider. You'll really learn bike control and you will likely find that you don't shift as much because it's just not as convenient as brifters. Stick with it and you should be fine in no time....
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#29
Bike ≠ Car ≠ Ped.
My first multispeed bike had friction shifters -- on its wide moose-style MTB bars, right next to the handgrips. I thought it was ungainly to have shifters way down on the downtube, so I never liked them. Having them right next to my thumbs was a lot more convenient.
#30
Bike ≠ Car ≠ Ped.
Oh yeah --
It was really easy to make sure it was shifted cleanly, though. If the chain wasn't right on, it was loud; if it was quiet, it was good. Whenever it was a bit off it sounded like CLACK-A-CLACK-A-CLACK-A-GRRRR-ACK-ACK-ACK.
Simple as that.
It was really easy to make sure it was shifted cleanly, though. If the chain wasn't right on, it was loud; if it was quiet, it was good. Whenever it was a bit off it sounded like CLACK-A-CLACK-A-CLACK-A-GRRRR-ACK-ACK-ACK.
Simple as that.
#31
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I have barcons on both my touring/randonneuring bikes. They're great and stand up to a lot of abuse. I might try downtube shifters on my next bike, though; I haven't used them since I was a teenager and it would be nice to give them another go.
#32
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Helps if you are young and flexible, as bending over low to reach the levers
on the down-tube is needed.. relocating the shifting function
to the end of the drop bar simplifies that, and you shift the lever while holding on
to the handlebar, rather than letting go and reaching down.
in the 80s I had downtube shift levers as the stock part, micro ratchet sun tour ,
once the knack was developed, a quick slap of the lever made one gear change.
Bike control when carrying weight in the panniers , had me converting to bar end shifting.
and then the road bike got a set , too, as aging made bending down low less desirable.
for a more upright posture , thumb shifters work well..
also a simple lever, less to go wrong..
on the down-tube is needed.. relocating the shifting function
to the end of the drop bar simplifies that, and you shift the lever while holding on
to the handlebar, rather than letting go and reaching down.
in the 80s I had downtube shift levers as the stock part, micro ratchet sun tour ,
once the knack was developed, a quick slap of the lever made one gear change.
Bike control when carrying weight in the panniers , had me converting to bar end shifting.
and then the road bike got a set , too, as aging made bending down low less desirable.
for a more upright posture , thumb shifters work well..
also a simple lever, less to go wrong..
#33
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I read a story about this a few years ago, can't remember where, that said Lemond and Armstrong get the credit for the boom in cycling, but what's really responsible is that indexing took the brains out of shifting.
#34
Bike ≠ Car ≠ Ped.
Isn't indexing -- particularly brifters -- a feature that Armstrong pushed for with Shimano? That's what I remember reading, too.
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Actually I think Sturmey Archer had the first indexed shifting of their three speeds way back in 1902... FWIW about half of my derailleur equipped bikes still use friction shifting.
Aaron
Aaron
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
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Don't lean on the bars, support your body weight with your core muscles. Make sure your fit is good so you are balanced on your saddle. With practice you will make quick shifts so your hand is only off the bars very briefly.
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Yeah, barcons are the way to go. I can't tell you how many times I have almost fallen while focusing my balance and attention on shifting DT's, and how many times I have stuck my fingers through the spokes while feeling for the shifters. Avoid stem shifters too, because those are in the perfect place to get hit by your knees while youre going uphill.
I feel friction is more reliable and longer lasting than indexed, but I have also heard that a good many people use an indexed RD and friction FD combo. Friction is also definitely way easier to maintain and adjust than indexed if you are just starting out.
Yeah, if youre going to use DT's make sure to practice plenty and be aware that you may have to wait for 'safe moments' on the road before you can do your DT shifts, unlike bicycles with other systems such as barcons or brifters.
I feel friction is more reliable and longer lasting than indexed, but I have also heard that a good many people use an indexed RD and friction FD combo. Friction is also definitely way easier to maintain and adjust than indexed if you are just starting out.
Yeah, if youre going to use DT's make sure to practice plenty and be aware that you may have to wait for 'safe moments' on the road before you can do your DT shifts, unlike bicycles with other systems such as barcons or brifters.
#39
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Practice practice practice!
With not too much practice, if the bike fits properly, you can shift from any position on the bar.
Practice practice practice.
With not too much practice, if the bike fits properly, you can shift from any position on the bar.
Practice practice practice.
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