Brooks saddle sqeaking
#1
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Joined: Jul 2008
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From: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r, Marin Muirwoods 29er, Trek FX Alpha 7.0
Brooks saddle sqeaking
I think I've finally put enough miles on my Brooks to require an adjustment. it took a long time cuz I don't ride much anymore. anyone know which way to turn the adjusting screw and by how much? I have the original instructions somewhere but before I take to it, I thought I would enquire here. thanks for sharing your experiences and suggestions.
#2
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Bikes: 80's Marin, 90's Dawes, ALAN & various unicycles.
They very rarely need adjusting unless the leather is near or touching the frame underneath, it's a quick way to ruin one if adjusted too much.
Is it uncomfortable?
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...y-Brooks-Flyer
Is it uncomfortable?
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...y-Brooks-Flyer
#3
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From: Ottawa Canada
Bikes: kona dew hybrid, MEC shadowlands
Squeaking is normal. First, try adding a couple drops of lubricating oil to the adjustment threads on your saddle. That may help quell the sound. If you do adjust the nut, do not tighten more than one-quarter turn at a time. Over tightening is the worst thing you can do to your saddle.
#4
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My brochure says turn the nose bolt nut 90 degrees at a time, check tension.
You can use the tension spanner or an allen key to do this depending on the saddle model.
Over-tensioning the saddle will damage it.
Little tension, and not very often is the key.
Once the end of the nose bolt is reached, the saddle can no longer be tensioned.
This was stated in my brochure. But didn't say which way to turn. Sorry.
You can use the tension spanner or an allen key to do this depending on the saddle model.
Over-tensioning the saddle will damage it.
Little tension, and not very often is the key.
Once the end of the nose bolt is reached, the saddle can no longer be tensioned.
This was stated in my brochure. But didn't say which way to turn. Sorry.
#5
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https://sheldonbrown.com/leather.html
Mr. Brown says leave that nut alone and don't tension it as just about everyone he has seen try to do it has damaged the saddle. He likes the lacing alternative.
Mr. Brown says leave that nut alone and don't tension it as just about everyone he has seen try to do it has damaged the saddle. He likes the lacing alternative.
#6
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Here you go. Read the last FAQ question:
https://www.wallbike.com/faq#n1590
"facing the saddle" means facing the nose of saddle, I presume?
https://www.wallbike.com/faq#n1590
"facing the saddle" means facing the nose of saddle, I presume?
#7
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From: Rowlett, TX
Bikes: Karate Monkey, Trucker Deluxe, Brompton, Pugsley, Trek Transport
My squeaking Brooks turned out to be a very slightly loose bolt that clamps the seat to the post. I recommend checking all of your seat clamps first before messing with the tension bolt.
#8
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From: Bucks County, PA
My B17 develops a squeak about once a year. I basically do what Ottawa_Adam said. I apply a drop of light machine oil to all the contact points of the tension adjusting screw. Then I rotate the screw back and forth very slightly (maybe 20 degrees of rotation)to work the oil into the contact points. That usually fixes it.
I have also had the leather squeak at the rivets. (Warning, the following is conroversial.) I brushed on some neatsfoot oil around the rivets and let it soak into the leather. That fixed the problem. I have had to do this only twice in 7 years. Some will tell you that neatsfoot oil will damage your leather, but that has not been my experience. I do use pure neatsfoot oil, not the compound that contains silicone.
My B17 has about 10,000 miles and the leather is still taut and quite hard. I have not tensioned it ever.
I have also had the leather squeak at the rivets. (Warning, the following is conroversial.) I brushed on some neatsfoot oil around the rivets and let it soak into the leather. That fixed the problem. I have had to do this only twice in 7 years. Some will tell you that neatsfoot oil will damage your leather, but that has not been my experience. I do use pure neatsfoot oil, not the compound that contains silicone.
My B17 has about 10,000 miles and the leather is still taut and quite hard. I have not tensioned it ever.
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