I watch where I ride and use a quality inner tube and kevlar belted tire. So far so good. On my old commuter 3 speed that I rode from 1982-1987 I could change the rear tube in less than 5 minutes. Once you learn the technique it isn't all that hard. Hell it takes a good 15 minutes+ to change a car tire and you have to do that where you stopped, with the bike you can push it to a shady or dry spot depending on the weather. Even on my 8 speed city bike a rear tube change is only 15 minutes and that one has a chain case.

Aaron

If you use a chain tensionner or a rear derailleur, you can use a front derailleur and a double/triple with an IGH. Not for everybody, but can be useful in many situations.

And, a chain tensioner will also allow you to use an IGH even on a bike with vertical dropouts. And it means that you don't have to worry about aligning the wheel, either.

As far as changing flats, I use Fly Bikes Cobra Tubes. That way, I don't even have to take the rear wheel off, I can just separate the tube, feed a new tube in, loop that together, install it and the tire, inflate it, and be on my way.

Yes, and no. With careful selection of the front chain ring the entire gear range of IGH can be moved up and down to suit your riding preference.

Well, OK, but not all of them complicate the process much. One can disengage and re-engage a Rohloff in about 10 seconds, it makes barely any difference.

You won't get the gear range with any 8 speed IGH that you have with your derailleur system, but the closest you will get is the cheapest option among 8 speed, that being the Sturmey Archer unit. I've done a fair few IGH conversions of all flavors, and my least favorite platform to work with is a mountain bike. (Excepting Rohloff hubs, which do play very nice with MTBs.)
However, one of the main obstacles would not apply here, that being getting a large enough chainring far enough inboard to achieve proper chain line, and still clear the chain stays. You will need a very small chain ring to get low enough gearing with this hub, as first gear is direct, all others are overdrive.
You could probably use the granny ring on your current crank set, andget the chain line to work out pretty close.
Now, before others start ringing the alarm about extreme torque input at low ratios, I'll point something out about the SA 8 speed. 1st gear is a direct lockup across all 3 internal stages, so no stress is borne by the gear train or the shift pawls. I believe it would be perfectly safe to gear it with a 22 tooth chain ring and a 23 tooth cog PROVIDED you never use any gear other than 1st for hard climbing.
This chainring/cog combo on 26 x 2.2 tires would get you a gear inch range of about 25 to 82. pretty rideable range.
Also, the SA unit can be set up for 135mm old. I have one set for that width. If I ever build another, I'll use tha disc brake version, whether or not the bike has discs as the non drive side bearing is further outboard.

Swapping rear cogs is cheaper and may move the range enough to make it usable for you. Example: most Raleigh 3 speeds came with 16t or 18t rear cogs, in the real world 22t is much better.

Aaron

I'm going to have to find my Gear Inch calc's. I find myself using 3 or 4 gears that are in succession and occasionally one that's a good step lower, but not much else. Could just be me, though.

M.

The whole point to both our post is that an IGH can be a very good gear set with the right front chain ring ,or rear cog, so don't be afraid to try different tooth combinations for your riding style.