Here's my experience with Brooks. I have a 30 year old campy equiped bike that I have owned since new. It came with a Brooks Professional (small rivets not the jumbo ones) and that is the only saddle that has ever been on the bike. Until 2 years ago it was my only ride and I rode it a ton, with at most one or 2 seasons of non riding and the rest ridden heavily.

I weigh 200 pounds and always have.

It has been proofhided and other than looking a bit scruffy it hasn't changed much since the day I got it. It is not quite as rock hard as when it was new but it is pretty damn close. The worst thing about it is the numb nuts. It could sterilize a bull.

Can't say I hate it but don't love it either. Still ride it on the trainer and when the weather is not nice enough for my new carbon Giant. Been through 3 saddles on that bike and still looking for something better. Might try an Arione one of these days.

I find it easier to pull a wheel, front or rear, with the bike up right. Just drop to the smallest cog and ring pull the release and the rear will drop right out. Then you also know which cog to stick it on when you reinstall the wheel.

The swift is very nice, still.

It's just a bit scuffed ... nothing terrible! Character marks!!

I agree with that when you have a stand available. Out in the middle of the country on a dirt road it makes more sense to use gravity as your friend. Let the wheel fall into the drop outs and have both hands available to help guide it. Instead of having to use one hand to help support the bike. (sorry for getting off topic.)

I love my brooks its the best saddle ever. I've had it for a few years now and just noticed a problem I was having. I was getting sore in the place you don't want to get sore. I tried chaning my position alot and was about to switch saddles. Out of frustration I tightened up the saddle a bit and it seemed to fix the problem.

Anyone else tightened up their saddle?

Ranger I would have to show you a video of installing a wheel with the bike upright but if you saw it you would start doing it that way. You still use gravity but you lower the bike onto the wheel. Watch the tour when it comes up you will see a mech do a wheel change this way at least a couple of times.

Yes, I would agree. That said, help is at hand. If you're interested drop me a PM and I will send you some info which will sort your problem out. Make no mistake these are great saddles and I would use nothing else but they can be tricky.

Lucky you! But don't think for a moment that your experience is universal. The thickness of the leather is an important factor.

I got the box from Wallbike yesterday. I opened the package like a little kid at Christmas. I was....... stunned at how hard this saddle is. I could break bricks with it. HOLY COW!!!! I thought most people on this thread were exaggerating. Obviously not. I am still going to give it a try, but of course it is raining for the next three days and I did not get the proofide stuff in the box. I should have asked about that before I bought it. My husband says it will soften up. I hope so.....

It's not recommended by Brooks, but I'm going to try what others, including Sheldon Brown, have suggested and use some oil like neatsfeet or baseball glove oil to expedite the break-in.

Well, this second week of using the B17 standard has been a much more pleasant experience. I rode 25 miles yesterday and did not experience any discomfort. My only concern at this point is that the saddle might be a tad wide for me, and that I possibly should have gotten the narrow version instead.

Don't do it! If you do want to expedite the process then use "Hydrophane" which is a leather dressing used by saddlers to condition the leather before working it. Be careful and after the first application leave the saddle overnight before inspecting just how far the dressing has penetrated. Only then apply more dressing.Too much and the dressing can take away the shine on the top surface. Be prepared to see some darkening of the leather (quite attractive) if this is a "honey" coloured saddle. Be generous around the rivets as this does prevent cracking at these points in the years to come. Remember this invalidates the warranty but I have conditioned a great number of saddles using this process and if care is taken then you can have comfort without the pain.

OK,
I have finally taken the time to measure,
My bars are 4" below my seat, so appently the B-17 I bought was the wrong seat for this set up.


Now, shout I raise my bars 3" or order a new seat? How does one decide that?



I am a recreational rider who plans on doing the ocasional century. Longest ride so far is 50 miles, no real pain, but the saddle doesn't "disppear" like some describe.

Don't worry about it (unless it's terribly uncomfortable) , B-17's have been ridden on plenty of road bikes... and I'm convinced Brooks saddles take about 2 years to really break in.

I don't think I quite understand what you are saying. Your seat height is dependent upon your leg length. You could put on a seat that is 12" tall; you would just lower your seatpost into the frame.
I really like my seat and handlebars to be the same heigth and usually end up putting about an 1" to 1-1/2" spacer under the stem.
You could replace your stem with a steeper angled one, I do that as well,and that will help tremendously. You might be able to sneak a 1/2" into your stack.
If you are anything like me though you will come to LOVE your brooks. Mine is still pretty hard but it's comfy for me.
D

Don't do it. The leather will become mushy...and turns into like any other gel saddle out there. I've seen it happen to someone.

Got four of em. Every one gets soaked in olive oil to soften it up. It's great for keeping them clean too. Touring and mtb bikes have saddles with springs, racing bikes have Swifts. They're great saddles as long as you don't want kids.

sun

Dougmt pretty well answered it. Raise your bars, if you can (quill much easier than aheadset, at least until your run out of stem). Do it in increments until your find the point where the seat does sort of disappear under you. You also may need to fiddle a little with the tilt. Some are lucky that they can fit and ride straight away with a Brooks. I took quite a long time, first with the Pro that wasn't suited to my randon bike, and then with the B17 that's now on it.

Okay, thanks guys. I'll stick with Proofide and my butt.

Maybe a visit to the proctologist? Maybe your backside is the wrong model?

I agree that the thickness of the leather makes a difference, and perhaps someone who weighs more might break a saddle in faster, but it is still possible for a light person to break a Brooks in. It just takes a bit of time and patience.

I had the same reaction! And don't be surprised on your first few trips out if you feel like you're sliding all over the place, that's normal, and that feeling goes away after a bit. I would not suggest doing a long ride on the saddle the first time out. Take it for a few miles, make some adjustments (I had to raise the nose of the saddle a bit), ride a few more miles, and gradually ease your way into it. It will never become "soft" to the touch, but what will happen is that it will develop "butt grooves" - indents where your sitbones go, and the saddle will give when you sit on it. That's when you know you've broken it in, and it is YOURS!

This afternoon may be my first chance to ride with the Brooks. I do not have the proofide yet, as it did not come with the saddle. Do I need to get that first and treat it before riding, or can I start and proofide it later? I am only planning a short ride this evening.

Alright, I just got my used Team Pro off ebay for a decent price. It looks as good as everyone says and it really matches my bike. And since it's used (70's model I was told) the leather is already softened up a bit. I've been riding it off and on for about two weeks now and haven't put Proofhide on it yet, though I'm going to this week.

I've enjoyed riding on it, but I've got a different problem than comfort. The brown finish on the leather is rubbing off on my jeans/shorts and creating quite an embarassing situation when I'm out with friends. The saddle has been completely dry and the finish isn't "bleeding," just rubbing off on my clothes. This bike is my commuter/around-towner and if I can't figure out this problem then I'm going to have to go back to my stock vinyl saddle. Any suggestions?

No.